Anchor chain question

ashanta

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I have in the past used a chain and anchor combination and when at anchor I have cleated off the warp thereby having no sustained strain on my SL anchorman winch. I have just bought 30 mtrs of calibrated chain from Jimmy's and a chain hook to take tension when at anchor to stop any chain noise on the bow roller. As i will not be using rope for my main anchor in the future, I have two questions.
Firstly, as in the past I have not wanted to keep the sustained tension on the winch is there another way of making the chain fast or will it be OK to keep it on the gypsy and use the anchor hook to take the tension?
Secondly, The anchor hook. I have not used one before and I assumed that hook just went into one of the eyes but the hook is bigger than expected and I am now thinking that the hook fits the side profile of the chain link (certainly fits that way very well) and therefore when taking the tension there is distinct kink a 90 degrees at that point on one link?
As usual, any advice or contructive comment or opinion would be welcome.
Many thanks.
Peter.
 

Talbot

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chain hook slides through the side profile of the link.

It is normally attached to the boat via a stretchy nylon warp to allow a certain amount of movement and reduce snatch loads, thus chain between hook and gypsy needs to be slack, but secured (in case of failure of the chain hook!)
 

NickCharman

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Your idea that the anchor hook fits across the chian is correct - and yes it will give a kinked look to the chain.

Splice a good length - 4m? - of warp to the hook. Veer enough chain to have the hook outboard, cleat the warp, and leave the chain on the gipsy, but with no strain on it. Nice and quiet and puts a bit of spingyness in the set up. Windlasses are not built for the job of the cleat, or Samson post.

But 30m of chain only? You must anchor in quite shallow areas to get away with this. 6m max depth - at high water - if you draw 2 m no more than 4m range of tide allowed.

Why only 30m of chain?
 

MIKE_MCKIE

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Keep the chain round the gypsy, but take the load with the chain hook.
The hook as you rightly surmise goes across the chain link & is designed to do so. They use a very similar system on 100,000+ ton ships (although usually a slip, not a hook) so would be safe to assume that you will not have any problems with it.
Cheers
 

Jack_the_Lad

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The anchor hook does fit over the side profile of the chain; not thru the chain.

Take a length of three strand nylon and attach to the hook splicing in a thimble. The min. length of rope should equal; bow roller to cleating point + at least a 1.5 mtrs

To use: let out the required length of chain and set the anchor. Slip the hook over the bow roller and on to the chain and now, leaving a slack rope, make off the other end of the rope around your cleat. Now let out more chain which will take up the slack in the rope. This will leave the chain slack and no tension on your anchor winch and hopefully you'll get a quiet good night's sleep.

Hope my description's clear ?

Cheers - Jack
 

ashanta

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Hey. I want to reply to all yer all on st patrick's day!

Many thanks for your replies which has helped me no end.

One of the questions was about the the length of chain?

I have loads of chain and warps aboard to suppliment any need to for additional scope but in the main (torbay) I anchor in a range that 30 mtrs is OK.

Many thanks for the confirmation about the anchor hook. I bought the hook from Jimmy's with the nylon line attached and yes, It does look it will take a load and be a little stretchy.

Once again, many thanks foe all the advice. Much appreciated.

Regards.

Peter.
 

Coppershield

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Second anchor hook

Hi,
I know Your questions have been answered well , but here are a few things You may want to keep in mind.
1 - buy a second chain hook with the necessary line . it comes handy when You want to renew the line on the first one.
2 - purchase the largest anchor shackle that will fit the eye of the chain hook. This will make it easy to tie a line, You can also use an additional line with some slack as a backup.
3 - make provisions for hook at the bow where You can hook it to quickly.
Above suggestions may not be necessary for Your cruising area but if You do follow them, I hope You will never need them. It is nice to be prepared.
Good luck . :) .
Muzaffer
 

Chris_Robb

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Re: Anchor chain question - 3 starnd Nylon

There is an article in this months PBO saying that 3 strand nylon is bad news - use multiplat nylon or 3 stand terrylene (or what ever it is called now.)
 
A

Anonymous

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I would add to what others have already said that there is a danger, in the event of failure under extreme load of the chain hook or nylon snubber, that the whole load of the boat will suddenly be put onto the windlass. The inertia of the boat would be considerable. The internal gears of the windlass are not designed for such loads and you could end up with the gypsy freewheeling, letting go your entire chain rode along with the bitter end. I would suggest that if you think the conditions justify it, that you do something to stop that happening. This will depend on what you have and the answer will probably be commonsense but for example you could take a couple of turns of chain around a samson post, or the windlass, or bend on another nylon warp taken to a strong cleat, maybe midships.

I am very curious and interested to learn why you are moving away from a mixed rode especially in favour of such a comparatively short chain rode. I am about to splice a good length of anchorplait onto my chain which, at 50m, is rather too short for comfort.
 

Ships_Cat

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I generally agree but mention that the windlass shaft is normally not designed to take anchoring loads either and the weight should always be taken on a samson post, chain stopper, or something but never on the windlass unless a lunch stop, or similar in light conditions.

John
 
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