Anchor chain guide pipe

WindermereColvic

WindermereColvic

Well-Known Member
Joined
20 Nov 2008
Messages
794
Location
Newburgh, Lancs
Visit site
The anchor chain on our Colvic Countess 28 is lead round the anchor windlass, and then forward into a rear facing haws pipe. The chain then runs down a plastic pipe through the cloths locker into the chain locker under the v birth. The plastic pipe forms a slight ‘C’ shape, with an ‘amplitude’ you might say, of about 8” over its aprox 4’ length. Ok so thats the situation, if ive been making any sense. Problem is, the chain doesn’t fall down the haws pipe and just piles up by the winch. Even if i try and feed it down by hand it gets stuck every few inches of chain. The ground tackle dose look used, so im hoping that this arrangement did used to work, but the prev. owner never anchored, so it hasn’t been used particularly recently. Is there anything i can do to help? Some sort of lubricant down the guide pipe, method of using the winch?
Thanks, Matt
 
Good idea but it only needs ther pile topling to fit the last 10' in, up to that its ok, privided i sit on the fordeck and prod it down...
Thanks for the heads up re emails, i answerd them on Sun, but if they've not turned up, ill try from another account. Seems my emails have joined my PMs and my ability to upload pictures to facebook on the list of things the comp dosn't like.
 
sounds as if there might be a restricting kink in the pipe, or there's not enough space below the exit from the pipe into the chain locker. Does the chain pull through easily from below ?

The natural angle of repose for chain is very steep, and one idea is to borrow a small road cone and place it directly below the chain pie. The incoming chain then distributes itself in a shallow cone, not a steep one.
 
It's possible the pipe run was OK when first installed but has since sagged, changing the angle at the inboard end to less than the angle of repose of chain. Can you prop the pipe up in the middle to take out the sag?
 
Thanks Sarabande and John, worth a try inspecting the pipe for kinking. The chain doesn’t run particularly free if pulled through by hand, but its no worse than it was on the old boat. The chain is lying against the side of the pipe for all of the pipes length, so i can’t help but feel its friction there.
 
Just to shed a bit more light, this shows our fairly conventional ( i think) deck arangment. And, yes, That is snow!
Image00001.jpg
 
Well, looking at your pic there is absolutely no reason for the chain to go down the hawse pipe except gravity. There has to be enough weight of chain IN the hawse pipe to overcome the friction and weight of the chain effectively lying horizontal.

I do not think greasing the hawse pipe is the best solution. It might work, but you'd have to keep doing it which would be a pain.

So, as previously observed, I would look at
a) the friction in the hawse pipe as it passes below - maybe it is indeed kinked.
b) replacing the pipe with one of larger bore if it's a bit tight. But not too large of course - you want to keep the links running true.
c) Replacing the pipe anyway because it might be scarred from previous use (though I know you say the prev. owner didn't anchor much) and this could be inducing friction. Also old plastic pipe can get a bit gummy. Or slightly kinked (maybe not reinforced like spiralux). Maybe use sanitation hose which is quite smooth.
d) Shortening the pipe so there is more fall, it if is exiting too low in the locker.
e) Make sure that the entry to the hawse pipe is not causing any resistance - or consider whether it could be improved.
f) Chain rusty? If you are thinking of replacing it maybe consider stainless. Not a big fan of stainless chain myself, but it is beautifully smooth. Doesn't look rusty though...

Bottom line, forgive me for stating the obvious, the physics is relatively simple - you need weight below to overcome friction and resistance of weight above. But it will probably need a bit of experimentation to sort out. If you can get into the anchor locker and pull the chain it may give you some feel for how much work there is to be done - does it need a really good tug? Does it flow smoothly when started? Does it need a little continuous load etc?
 
Think you will always have difficulty because the horizontal distance before the vertical fall is too great. On my SL Anchorman the hawse pipe is part of the winch base so the chain comes straight off the gypsy and then falls. Even then I have problems with it piling up because the fall is not deep enough.
 
Looking at the picture, your hawse pipe is off to one side. That will cause the chain to pile against the hull and not topple.

Can you move the hawse pipe to a more central position?

You could also try contacting the Countess Owners Association (via their website) to see if any other owner has solved your problem.
 
My Centaur has an almost identical set up.

The "guide pipe" which gets the chain from the deck to the anchor locker is more or less verticle for its 18" or so drop though. I have seen Westerlys without the "guide pipe" just the chain dropping into the anchor locker, I wonder if it was removed to try to get the chain to drop under gravity alone? I didn't like the look of the chain effectively passing through the forecabin on it's way to the anchor locker.

Mine piles up in the V of the prow and I have to go below and move the pile of chain so some more can be fed down the hawse pipe. It's a bit of a pain TBH.
 
As vertical and as straight as possible should be the best arrangement.
I have recently changed mine, using household gutter downpipe with fittings and I've fitted a larger chainpipe on the deck with a 50mm opening using an 8mm chain.
At sea I can easily stuff a sponge around the chain in the chainpipe to keep the green stuff out if required.
However, I still have to go knock the chain stack over after about 26M of chain has been put back so it's still not perfect.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top