An apology and an engine question

[Jacket]

Firstly an apology. A forum member has just pointed out that just about every post I’ve made is me disagreeing with something that’s been said. Thinking about it, I have to agree with him. He seemed quite upset about this. So if I’ve done this to you, and you took offence, my humble apologies.

And now the question. The engine on my boat (Yanmar GM10) is a bit of a mess as the result of an oil leak and a self destructing alternator belt. There’s not a lot of room to get at it to clean it, and it could also do with a coat of paint in places. As it looks quite an easy job to remove the engine, I was considering lifting the whole engine out. But is it really as easy as it looks? Afterwards, can I just drop it back in and bolt it in place, or does it need to be carefully aligned, which might turn an easy job into a nightmare? Has anyone done this themselves? Any comments?


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[Mirelle]

Cheer up - you certainly don't upset me, and I enjoy your posts!

I would get it out. It's not terribly heavy, and it is almost certainly flexibly mounted with a flexible coupling, so re-installation should not be that much of a job. They are dead easy to bleed. You will do a far better job on it out of the boat, in the privacy and comfort of your own garage!

They are well known for eating belts!

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[vyv_cox]

If you have offended me I've forgotten the incident.

The ease of lifting an engine out is totally dependent upon your own capabilitues. Personally, I find it very easy but others may not. A small engine like yours should be very easy. Disconnecting electrics is mostly accomplished by removing one plug plus wires to starter motor and alternator. Fuel pipe from the lift pump. Exhaust pipe from the manifold.

Now unscrew the nuts on the top of each engine mounting, leaving the rubber part in situ. Mark the output flange of the gearbox and the prop shaft flange so that they go back the same way. Disconnect the shaft bolts. The engine should now be ready to lift out, unless I've forgotten something.

Your engine will almost certainly have two lifting points. Tie a single loop of rope through both and connect this to the hook of whatever you are hoisting out with. This method allows you to tilt the engine fore and aft if you need to for positioning or getting out of awkward engine bays. If you are lifting it right out of the boat it should be straightforward on the boom but you may choose to do the job aboard, in which case I find an old skateboard invaluable for moving it about. I always line the saloon sole and locker fronts with flattened cardboard boxes and old carpet before doing this kind of job, it keeps it clean and protects from knocks.

When you put the engine back and provided you have not disturbed the lower nuts on the mountings, there should be no change to the alignment. However, this is a very easy job to do, so it's worth giving it a go. Tighten the shaft mounting bolts until there is a small gap between the flanges. Measure the gap with feeler gauges at 0, 90, 180,and 270 degrees. They should be the same to within .001 - .002 inch. If not, adjust the height of the engine by carefully screwing the appropriate lower mounting nuts and keep checking. When you are getting close, turn the engine over half a rev or so and check again. It's possible that the lateral alignment is wrong, in which case there is usually a slotted hole in the mountings somewhere that lets you move the engine sideways a little. The whole process has acquired a mystique that is close to black magic but it's actually a very simple, logical process that anyone can do. In some boats the alignment is different if the boat is in or out of the water. Less so for modern, stiff, GRP boats but can be significant with wooden craft especially.

While the engine is out it might well be worth thinking about changing the engine oil seals, as these are the first things to fail and the aft one, at least, requires the engine to come out.

Good luck. PM me if you need more info or clarification.

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[Evadne]

I've done this on my own 1GM7 (fewer horses, same kilogrammes, sounds as mucky as yours!) several times. I found the hardest bit was getting at the flexible coupling bolts. Vyv has covered just about everything and probably knows more than me about engines but I would add:
Two fuel pipes to disconnect (the return from the injector). Don't forget to switch off the main fuel tap and have two plugs to stick into the free ends of the pipes to stop more diesel going into the bilges.
Disconnect the water intake as well.
There is only one lifting point (mine is accessable with the kicking strap through the main hatch)
It is possible for one reasonably fit person, with no history of back trouble, to lift the engine/gearbox assembly. I have lifted it off its mountings onto the cabin sole as well as picking it up and dropping it back on, but the latter is much trickier and you need someone to help you guide it on. A skyhook is much more preferable. I wouldn't want to carry it any distance!
Be careful not to damage the external oil pipes by putting the engine down only for it to roll over.
If you're working on it on the cabin sole, drain the sump before removing the engine.
Good luck!

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[Aeolus_IV]

I'd add a suggestion to disconnect the battery(ies) at source before doing anythng - just in case there are live wires floating round. Just to be safe.

Jeff.

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[vyv_cox]

I avoid disconnecting batteries completely when possible, as I then have to re-programme two radios, central heating timer, Navtex, etc. My boat is wired so that turning off the rotary 1, 2, both, off, switch isolates everything, including both the solenoid and the starter motor cable, except a single small wire that retains the memories in this electronic equipment.

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[andy_wilson]

Disagreeing or Contradicting?

In which case are you aware that it is not a Yanmar and certainly has never leaked a drop of oil or shed any fan belt debris.

You surely don't know what you're on about!!!!

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[gtmoore]

I assume that it's a good idea if an auto electric bilge pump is fitted that it should also be wired externally to the battery switch?

<hr width=100% size=1>Gavin

 

[vyv_cox]

I would think so. I don't use one as I close all seacocks when leaving the boat and I have complete confidence in my old-fashioned, packed gland stern seal.

My only permanently live wires have a small fuse, 2 amp from memory. I guess that an automatic bilge pump might require a fuse quite a lot bigger than this, giving rise to some concerns. I once had a wiring failure in an old VW motor caravan. The headlamp wiring heated sufficiently to melt the insulation, without blowing a 35 Amp fuse. It came close to starting a fire, since when I have always been careful that the boat's 'Off' switch means 'Off".

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[Jacket]

Thanks for all the advice. Doesn't sound too bad, so I think I'll give it a go. And if it all goes horribly wrong, I'll be back on this forum begging for advice (or calling you nasty names for encouraging me!).

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[gtmoore]

I also close all seacocks before leaving and will soon have a conventional stuffing box again so I may do the same and move the bilge pump from the battery to the switch. It only draws 7.5 amps but as you say I would like everything to be disconnected when I turn that switch to 0!

Cheers

<hr width=100% size=1>Gavin