Aluminium.fuel tank condidtion ?

waynes world

waynes world

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Well got the tank patched as it had a hole. They did before I knew it haha.
I cleaned it fully back when i got it home and pressure tested it which was all godd.. I found a couple.of areas I am not 100% on. Pitted areas.
I thought on filling the pitted area about which is around 7mm and with either epoxy filler or metal putty. is it that bad to get a new tank made? I could ask at work if they will make me one if need be.
On a vernier it is .24mm deep.

20230610_153828.jpg
 
I had a tank like that but didn't notice until I had fitted an inspection hatch. I then scrapped the tank as not worth trying to repair. In my case I did away with using any tank at all and built one into the bilge in the old fashioned way using 'whatsername' resin for chemicals.
I'll send you some pics if you're interested.
 
waynes world said:
Well got the tank patched as it had a hole. They did before I knew it haha.
I cleaned it fully back when i got it home and pressure tested it which was all godd.. I found a couple.of areas I am not 100% on. Pitted areas.
I thought on filling the pitted area about which is around 7mm and with either epoxy filler or metal putty. is it that bad to get a new tank made? I could ask at work if they will make me one if need be.
On a vernier it is .24mm deep.

View attachment 157994
Click to expand...
If the tank is 2.5mm thick it's a bad idea if it's 6mm thick then it's going to last a while longer. You get the idea.
 
PCUK said:
I had a tank like that but didn't notice until I had fitted an inspection hatch. I then scrapped the tank as not worth trying to repair. In my case I did away with using any tank at all and built one into the bilge in the old fashioned way using 'whatsername' resin for chemicals.
I'll send you some pics if you're interested.
Click to expand...

Theres an idea. be easy enough, well sort of. I have made a drinking water GRP tank in the past but 70 gallon petrol tank is different.

send me over some pics then please kida. worth a thought.


Fr J Hackett said:
If the tank is 2.5mm thick it's a bad idea if it's 6mm thick then it's going to last a while longer. You get the idea.
Click to expand...

rogerthebodger said:
You could weld patches over the pitting to reinforce the tank
Click to expand...

Well ad a more closer look and there are atleast four more corroded spots.

think it will be a new tank for peace of mind. ill see if work will make me one or look at PCUK`s idea. or get a plastic one, no as dear as SS or ally..
 
My aluminium fuel tank was seeping from the bottom. Emptied the tank, took it out and found lots of pitting and pin holes of varying sizes in the bottom, probably caused by chemical reaction between the fuel in the bottom and possibly fine sediment with corrosion eating its way out. I had the bottom plate cut out and completely replaced. Cost me £80 at a specialist welding company. Professionally, I have also witnessed this in other vessels where if you patch the holes you just end up chasing leaks around, as one after the other, the pits developed in to holes. This has happened on steam boilers (oxygen corrosion and pitting) and the double bottom fuel tanks on ships where the crud in the fuel settled at the bottom and became infested with bugs that then digested the fuel. Then, over time, the bug by products attacked the steel plates requiring drydocking, replating and thorough decontamination. When the replacement plate was welded in to my aluminium tank I had the bottom of a thicker plate than before and of a more resistant grade of aluminium. I wasn't going to stop the corrosion but I could delay it.
 
I'm sure you will do a very good job in repairing and restoring the aluminium tank, but you only need to miss one tiny pinhole or not cover a corrosion point, and there will be nasty leaks and a lot of extra repetitive work.

I'd go for a plastic HDPE one. TekTanks seem to have a good reputation, but it's really quite easy to cut HDP and weld it with a thermostatic heat gun. Then you can cut it to shape prezackly as you need, with inspection lids etc.


Welding gun prices now really down to a practical level

Amazon.co.uk : plastic welding heat gun
 
sarabande said:
I'm sure you will do a very good job in repairing and restoring the aluminium tank, but you only need to miss one tiny pinhole or not cover a corrosion point, and there will be nasty leaks and a lot of extra repetitive work.

I'd go for a plastic HDPE one. TekTanks seem to have a good reputation, but it's really quite easy to cut HDP and weld it with a thermostatic heat gun. Then you can cut it to shape prezackly as you need, with inspection lids etc.


Welding gun prices now really down to a practical level

Amazon.co.uk : plastic welding heat gun
Click to expand...
I once planned to make a FW tank but never did, a few years back now.
I can get sheets of HPDE for this tank for near £200. so that with the gear around £300 for this size tank.

made this could be another section to my build portfolios ;) .
 
Sorry for the delay. forgot all about it.

Pic 1. Hull ground back to clean fibreglass and new side stringers glassed in prior to applying three layers of isophthallic resin and mat.1.jpg

Pic 2. Moulding angle sections for tank top support.
2.jpg

Pic 3. GRP angles ready for bonding in.
3.jpg

Pic 4. Baffles moulded and ready for bonding in.
4.jpg

The top was made from 18mm ply sheathed with layers of the same mat and resin on the inside.
A Nitrile gasket that covers the entire tank top inside was sandwiched between the supports and the top as the whole lot was screwed down.

5. I later added a stainless panel carrying the fuel filler, breather, Engine feed and return, Eberspacher feed, fuel gauge sender and Marine 16 Dipper pick-up. You can just see the edges of the Nitrile gasket along the edge of the panel.
5.jpg
 
Last edited:
PCUK said:
Sorry for the delay. forgot all about it.

Pic 1. Hull ground back to clean fibreglass and new side stringers glassed in prior to applying three layers of isophthallic resin and mat.View attachment 158053

Pic 2. Moulding angle sections for tank top support.
View attachment 158054

Pic 3. GRP angles ready for bonding in.
View attachment 158055

Pic 4. Baffles moulded and ready for bonding in.
View attachment 158056

The top was made from 18mm ply sheathed with layers of the same mat and resin on the inside.
A Nitrile gasket that covers the entire tank top inside was sandwiched between the supports and the top as the whole lot was screwed down.

5. I later added a stainless panel carrying the fuel filler, breather, Engine feed and return, Eberspacher feed, fuel gauge sender and Marine 16 Dipper pick-up. You can just see the edges of the Nitrile gasket along the edge of the panel.
View attachment 158057
Click to expand...
Thanks kida, that looks well.


My kinda work as you know lol.
Just been chatting to foreman at work and he said they will make me one from ally or SS which ever. They have 2mm ally on the rack I can have. Thinking on two baffles as I think usually 3mm for ally.
 
@PCUK

been thinking on your idea. I dont trust myself, if it was diesel i wouldnt be so bothered but petrol....must be going soft in my old age. never have i never trusted myself before :(
 
You may be right. You'd have to look into whether petrol would be OK. I am sure there will be a suitable resin if isophthallic isn't. For an ally tank I'd want 6mm and comprehensive corrosion protection. I assume your shop won't be using marine grade? Otherwise use stainless but make certain it is Tig welded and not mig'ed as I understand this can cause stress fractures.
 
We only have 2mm in so going to buy some.3mm in. Couple.hundred quid which isn't bad.ost tanks are 3mm and the one I have is so no need to go OTT on it. If anything I'll fit two baffles instead of the one it has now.i would never mig alloy or atainless either.
 
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