Aluminium anti-sieze lubricant - dangers?

BobnLesley

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I've just collected our rebuilt Yanmar gearbox and the Engineer also gave me a pot of silvery-coloured gloop called Aluminium anti-sieze lubricant, with instructions to liberally coat the damper-plate and input shaft splines and all fixing bolts prior to re-installation. He also recommended it for similar application to all and everything else I took apart/reassembled on the boat in the future.

I'm not concerned about its use for the gearbox reassembly, as that's a 'dry' area, but do worry about his advice with regard to other areas - the exhaust elbow studs was one - would the application of this stuff to stainless steel bolts that're also in contact with salt water not perhaps pose a risk of corrosion due to the dissimilar metals?
 
Did you read what these guys had to say about anti-seize compounds: they seem to have some idea.
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/anti-seize-compound-184595/


You say
"silvery-coloured gloop called Aluminium anti-sieze lubricant"

I wonder what it is? I think I would find out exactly what it is then do a bit of checking. Maybe this article could allay your concern once you find out what it is?

[PDF]How to Choose an Anti–Seize - Anti-Seize Technology
www.antiseize.com/pdf/how-to-choose-an-antiseize.pdf
Anti-Seize Technology's anti-seize compounds contain a high percentage of engineered solids. Composed of pure copper, aluminum, nickel, molybdenum ...
Missing: iodine
.
 
I've just collected our rebuilt Yanmar gearbox and the Engineer also gave me a pot of silvery-coloured gloop called Aluminium anti-sieze lubricant, with instructions to liberally coat the damper-plate and input shaft splines and all fixing bolts prior to re-installation. He also recommended it for similar application to all and everything else I took apart/reassembled on the boat in the future.

I'm not concerned about its use for the gearbox reassembly, as that's a 'dry' area, but do worry about his advice with regard to other areas - the exhaust elbow studs was one - would the application of this stuff to stainless steel bolts that're also in contact with salt water not perhaps pose a risk of corrosion due to the dissimilar metals?

That's interesting. I have used copper grease on all metal fittings and fastening on both car and boat for 50 years now and have never had any trouble dis-sassembling anything the second time around.

However I've never heard of an aluminium-based version of copper grease but would be happy to use it on ally fittings rather than copper grease ..... although I don't accept that copper grease is not suitable for metal/alloys other than iron or cooper as I've heard some people say.

I'll have a look on the web to see if I can find it.

Edit - found it https://www.beal.org.uk/lubrication-cleaning/grease/aluminium-grease-500g.html
Specifically says that it is for the same applications as copper grease so not convinced that it is any better but it's not expensive so might well give it a try after a bit more research. :)

Edit2 - bought the ebay version http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/500-gram-...469792?hash=item2816199f60:g:5cUAAOSwDk5T0Zza
No minimum order value and no postage. £9 for 500g .... you know it makes sense. :)

Richard
 
Last edited:
[QUOTE
Maybe this article could allay your concern once you find out what it is?
www.antiseize.com/pdf/how-to-choose-an-antiseize.pdf
.[/QUOTE]

It does, the picture of the gloop they're applying to the shaft coupling bolts - one of the tasks I'll be doing - is the exact same one that I've been given; over and above the copper-grease, this stuff is designed for coping with high temperatures (-65F - 1600F). Thanks, Bob

Thanks, Bob
 
I've used 'nevr seize' which is a silver coloured, more expensive alternative to copper grease.
But I've never had any problems with copper grease and the assorted metals that motorbikes are made of.
Not sure why it works, it just does.
On everything from lead to magnesium.
 
....
Edit - found it https://www.beal.org.uk/lubrication-cleaning/grease/aluminium-grease-500g.html
Specifically says that it is for the same applications as copper grease so not convinced that it is any better but it's not expensive so might well give it a try after a bit more research. :)

Edit2 - bought the ebay version http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/500-gram-...469792?hash=item2816199f60:g:5cUAAOSwDk5T0Zza
No minimum order value and no postage. £9 for 500g .... you know it makes sense. :)

Richard

Good links, cheers!
So many sorts of grease..... I like the sound of 'red'n'tacky'....
 
That's interesting. I have used copper grease on all metal fittings and fastening on both car and boat for 50 years now and have never had any trouble dis-sassembling anything the second time around.

However I've never heard of an aluminium-based version of copper grease but would be happy to use it on ally fittings rather than copper grease ..... although I don't accept that copper grease is not suitable for metal/alloys other than iron or cooper as I've heard some people say.

I'll have a look on the web to see if I can find it.

I thought you might have been aware of "Alumslip" from Molyslip, the makers of Copaslip http://www.molyslip.co.uk/products.php?cat=35&prd=14
 
I thought you might have been aware of "Alumslip" from Molyslip, the makers of Copaslip http://www.molyslip.co.uk/products.php?cat=35&prd=14

That looks like a branded version of the same stuff I've bought ..... as Copaslip is the branded version of copper grease.

This part of the website is interesting: ALUMSLIP is recommended when there is a prejudice against copper ie when copper can be electrically or chemically active. In some respects the high temperature performance of ALUMSLIP is superior to that of COPASLIP® but it is not so effective as a lubricant or as a protective against rusting or corrosion.

So it's better at higher temperatures but not as lubricating or rust-proofing ..... which to me suggests that I will continue to use copper for coating brake bleed nipples but switch to using aluminium for manifold studs. Which to use on brake pads is more tricky ..... perhaps copper on the Toyota and the Ford (don't get very hot) and aluminium on the Jag (the wheels get too hot to touch).

Along with my 500g tubs of copper grease, white marine grease, molybdenum grease, waterproof grease, rubber grease, silicone grease, HMP grease, lithium grease and GP grease ..... I'm seriously spoilt for choice! :)

Richard
 
Did you read what these guys had to say about anti-seize compounds: they seem to have some idea.
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/anti-seize-compound-184595/
.

[shameless thread drift(ish)]
The last post in that thread reminds me of a job I helped with refurbing a water wheel. 150 years old, in water and outside al its life. Nuts and bolts undid with spanners straight off. Reason? Whitworth thread and red lead putty and paint.


Regards copper, ali and sea water, what you end up with is a big fat copper since its eaten all the ali.

Another problem with any aluminium is its property change about mid Atlantic, where it morphs into aloominum.
 
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