Aluminium anodes for a 1GM10

Dellquay13

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The gated harbour I’m in seems to getting a lot of freshwater in this year from somewhere, you can see it is a muddy layer 6-18” thick at the surface depending how much rain water is flooding the stream at the top of the docks.
Zinc anodes have been getting more and more salt crusted in shorter time over the years that I have been changing them, so to cope with this increasingly brackish water I am considering changing to aluminium for the prop shaft, but that leaves me with a Zinc pencil anode inside the 1gm10, which is also getting very salt crusty quite quickly.

I am wary of mixing anodes that are so closely linked. I would also like to be able to run the engine and leave it jacketed with clean freshwater at the end of each visit to try to reduce salt build up after last years Rydlyme flush, but I don’t want to make the zinc anode any more crusty than the brackish harbour water is currently doing.

Does anyone know if Aluminium pencil anodes are available for my engine?

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Dellquay13

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Zinc engine anodes with aluminium prop or shaft ones are not incompatible as they are not in the same electrolyte.
Thank you for the quick reply

Even raw water cooled engines with direct linked prop shafts like the basic 1gm10?

I know there is an electrical break in the raw water path between the sea and the water inside the engine because of the inlet hose and the exhaust hose, but does it matter that the engine/gearbox/shaft is a direct link between the water outside and inside?
 
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Tranona

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Thank you for the quick reply

Even raw water cooled engines with direct linked prop shafts like the basic 1gm10?

I know there is an electrical break in the raw water path between the sea and the water inside the engine because of the inlet hose and the exhaust hose, but does it matter that the engine/gearbox/shaft is a direct link between the water outside and inside?
The engine anode is protecting bits IN the engine and not anything outside the boat.
 
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