Alternator Help

[Jcorstorphine]

I am in the process of breathing life back into an old Ford 1.6 diesel which I marinised some years ago but never quite completed. The only item I have left to do, is fit an alternator, however there was not one with the engine when I bought it. I can get a unit from Halfords without any problem but I wonder if the built in regulator will keep the voltage at the normal 14 (ish) volts or do I need an external box of electronics to control it.

john

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[Talbot]

You can buy new if you really want, but why not go down the scrappy and get one, slap in some new brushes, and you will have saved a lot of notes.

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[Jcorstorphine]

Thanks for your thoughts, there was a time (about 30 years ago) when I would not even have contemplated buying a new unit but if you knew the position where Ford in their infinite wisdom stuck the alternator on the old Fiesta (right down under the sump) the reasons for parting with dosh become clear.

regards John C

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[halcyon]

Depending on the age, your second hand alternator may regulate at 13.6 volt, if this is the case a new replacement regulator will normally run at 14.4 / 14.6 volt. As long as you do not fit blocking diodes, 14.4 volt will be ok for you, and seperate external regulaotor will not be needed.

Brian

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[Jcorstorphine]

Thanks Halcyon

Thanks for the help, I used to go sailing in a Halcyon 27 in the early 70s off the West Coast of Scotland. Great seaboat, remember going round Arnamurchan Point ( even further west than Lands End) just after a force 8 gale had blown for about two days. Fantastic sail, with the lighthouse disappearing behind high waves as we slipped down into a trough only to find ourselves riding high on the top of a crest a minute later. The boat had an 8HP Saab or was it Sabb engine which was very reliable but a bit underpowered. When we were heading into any sort of chop, we used to tack across the waves otherwise we just bobbed up and down on the same spot. Very much a "lee rail under boat"

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[William_H]

As this is for (I think) a motor boat the automotive alternator and regulator are best. The voltage chosen for the regulator is that which is ideal for continuous charging and set so it won't damage the battery. This is perhaps not ideal for quick charging of a flat battery as might be the case on a sailboat or when living on board. If you are buying second hand you can often remove the regulator (the black plastic block on the back with 2 screws) this will reveal the slip rings on the rotating part. Don't expect them to be perfect but grooving of more than half millimeter will give trouble. Check the brushes for length if applicable. Check the bearings for quiet smooth rotation. These are almost all the trouble you normally get in an alternator. regards will

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[silverseal]

I am currently working on both a Ford XLD 416 and XLD 418. The 1600 engine has the alternator driven by the crankshaft pulley with drives also the water pump, using a Vee belt. According to the Haynes manual there should be an "inline" diode pack which contains the blocking diodes. This is in the wiring harness. ( on the car that is) There are three connections to the alternator, main positive feed from battery to starter and then on to alternator, The second connection goes via the ignition warning light to the "igition switch" . The third and smallest connection goes to the tacho. Local scrapies round here charge £15 for an alternator ( working) so I usually check it works before changing the diodes pack and brushes. PM me for a Ford wiring diagram and also the boat friendly equivalent

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