Alternative to plywood for cockpit locker lids

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davidbfox

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Has anyone found a better alternative to marine plywood for cockpit locker lids?

Mine, made two years ago, have delaminated and warped. I made them from scrap from work, that I was assured was marine ply but must have been a lower spec.

I think I just need the proper marine ply, but wonder about some rigid plastic as an alternative.
 
This is always a contentious issue. Ply will last a long time if you sheath it in a thin layer of glass cloth and resin and take great care to waterproof any holes, such as screws for hinges and locks. I guess you could use a plastic, although it is likely to be slippery when wet...

Rob.
 
Mine must be about 20 years old. Made from ply bought specially from a wooden boat builder ( Coombes In Chichester).

No signs of de-lamination.

They replaced the originals which had been sanded so much that the top veneer had worn away.
Even the originals now over 30 years old and which are fitted each winter while the new ones are re-varnished show no signs of de-lamination.

I could buy GRP replacements if I wanted but the wood looks nice and given decent quality ply and reasonable care continues to give good service
 
I have used 'real' wood in the past.

Large slabs of mahogany are available, cheaply, if you're prepared to go to auctions etc and buy up the old victorian wardrobes that nobody wants (too big/dark etc) and chop them up. Gives you cheap but immensely good wood, you can use for years and for all sorts of odds and ends.
 
I've had the same problem - just not enough time for maintenance at present! I replaced both locker lids and the washboard, plus some other bits of wood trim, with grey UPVC - not pretty, but durable!

You can buy it in sheets from places like

http://www.theplasticshop.co.uk/#1X0

and

http://www.directplasticsonline.co.uk/

It's easy enough to cut with a jigsaw. Only thing I would say is that it's &*^%$ing dense!!! If, like me, your lids need to be a particular thickness to sit flush with the surrounding bits of cockpit, they'll end up being MUCH heavier than wooden ones. I might take a router to the underside of each one and reduce the thickness (and therefore, weight) when I get round to it.
 
I had same problem ......supposedly "marine" ply in an iroko frame.

Replaced ply panels with ordinary exterior grade, covered with Treadmaster and used sikkens on the under/in side. Weatherproof and very much safer.
 
Teak planking

My boat has cockpit seats/locker lids of marine ply with laid teak decking on top with black caulking compound between the planks.

It looks good and is often admired BUT the locker lids are very heavy and if they come down on your head you'll know about it (or maybe you won't!), also if there is rain or dew they absorb water and take a long time to dry out.

If I ever have to replace them I will use good quality marine ply (e.g. from Robbins Ltd) and varnish them.
 
I liberated a teak lab bench that was being replaced by epoxy from my last place of employment. It made three substantial locker lids and umpteen other useful projects. Fifteen years later and after giving lots of bits away to friends, I still have a couple of square metres left.
 
Has anyone tried Whale Brand Tufnol for replacing cockpit timber?
I will put a new posting asking this, but by the strength of cleats on my boat, which look near new after 40years, this material will outlast the boat.
It is relatively dense therefore heavy, so the thickness used could be thinner than the timber.
 
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