Albania

[Metabarca]

I'm planning a two-month cruise next spring from my home port of Trieste down to the Peloponnese and am toying with the idea of visiting Albania rather than doing the usual hop from Croatia across to Italy and down to Corfu. I saw Albania was mentioned in an August thread (Sparks, are you there?), but I was hoping I might be lucky and find out more. Anyone any direct or indirect experience of entering Albania and sailing in Albanian waters?

 

[byron]

Last time I was near there, some 18 miles or so offshore with a 3,000 ton Freighter a Commie Gunboat appeared and ordered me to follow them. When I refused they put a shot across my bows. It was only the timely arrival of the Royal Navy and the U.S.Navy that got me out of it. They had been monitoring my conversations with the Gunboat on M.F.
Even today I wouldn't sail those waters too many bandits lurk around there.

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[Roberto]

There was a report on a French sailing magazine a few months ago. Armed people everywhere, with a uniform or worse without, no facilities for yachts, very few even for ships, a sort of a harsh no man's land impression from the article. In a couple of occasions the writers were happy to be left unharmed. Also, the places they visited were far from wonderful.

 

[charles_reed]

How long ago was that Byron - tho' the comments I've had point to more entrepreneurial (in the Russian sense) activities in those waters.

 

[byron]

It was about 1964/5 ish. I have long ago lost my log books. The Greeks suffer from fast raiders in Ribs coming from Albania.

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[Forbsie]

I was there 3-4 years ago on a Nicholson (38?) going from Corfu to Split. We had to keep a constant watch to starboard for any small fast vessels. Italian Naval vessels were very prominent both visually and on radio although we surmised that they were only discussing how long to cook their pasta for.
I certainly wouldn't want to stop there.

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.seafin.co.uk>Tender to...</A><P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by Forbsie on 09/12/2002 10:19 (server time).</FONT></P>

 

[chrisc]

I would be very suprised if you can get insurance for Albanian waters................

 

[spark]

I called into Durres last year on a big ketch that we were delivering to Pula. We had some time to spare and went in just for the hell of it. Made the mistake of chugging into the harbour unannounced and only just recognised that the harbour master was talking to us as we scouted for a suitable place to berth. Apparently we could have been fined $3,000 for not asking permission to enter. The harbour master turned out to be a football fan and knew several Scottish teams. We gave him a bottle of whisky for helping us with immigration and clearing quarantine, which may have been a mistake because he turned up later very well lubricated and was hard to get rid of. He spoke some English but I suspect he is better in Italian, so you shouldn't have any trouble communicating.

Interesting place to visit, though. Very run down but evidence of lots of money being spent on infrastructure projects and a boatload of far eastern businessmen were being given a tour of the harbour. A busy bustling place but, as a foreigner you really feel as though you stick out from the crowd - a bit like being a white man in Africa. Lots of people on the quayside keen to take your ropes. We always made sure that two people stayed with the boat.

We did have some trouble getting away again. The military appeared when the skipper went to get clearance from the harbour master/immigation and were very keen to extract the $3,000 fine before letting us go but the harbourmaster managed to talk them round.

There is a large minefield marked on the chart that covers most of the coast around Durres. We religiously followed the cleared channel as we approached from Italy but the harbour master told us we could turn north when only a mile or so out of Durres and pass through the minefield without fear. Apparently the mines have all sunk to the bottom.

There is, doubtless, some risk involved in visiting but that's what makes life interesting.

Hope that helps.