After 60 years....

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a bit scary how few threads there actually are on the keel bolt. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

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Not really. The bolt goes in from outside, so to speak, through the iron keel, wood keel and floor with a big nut screwed on from inside. It's lasted 60 years so I think the design is probably quite sound.
 
Interesting photos. I have a 57 year old motor cruiser, which has spent 80% of it's life in fresh water. My friends sister boat has spent 95% of her lift in salt. He withdrew keel bolts (made from copper rod, head turned over, thread cut in by yard etc) and the bolts were down to almost nothing in the lower middle/close to the nut. Worried, I had several of mine removed and they were near perfect. Difference between salt water and fresh, but his hull is much better (both mahogany) so it's swings and roundabouts. Our copper nails are similar to yours, pretty much as new.

IanC
 
ah, i thought they screwed in from top down, altho` i did wonder about the the " heads " of the bolts.
no knowledge can be just as dangerous as a little knowledge, i suppose /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Not a whole lot wrong with the keel bolt either to my mind. Plenty of meat left in that. Some of the bolts to my floors are nearly half way though. Keel bolts will be out in a couple of years.
 
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Not a whole lot wrong with the keel bolt either to my mind. Plenty of meat left in that. Some of the bolts to my floors are nearly half way though. Keel bolts will be out in a couple of years.

[/ QUOTE ] That's what the shipwright said too. The forrardmost keelbolt was the only one we could get out because of the way the boat is chocked on the cradle, but given that it's from by far the leakiest area it's a safe bet that the rest are likely to be OK as well. We will see next winter.
 
the most common problem with old copper nails is that the heads have been sanded off or sheared.
The yards that built these wooden yachts would form the keel bolts in their own or local forge and then send them off to be galvanized. bolts (depending on location) would then have the threads cleaned with a die, then coated with either bitumen, white lead paste, or with paint, given a collar of caulking cotton then driven
not the sort of product you buy off the shelf!!
 
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the most common problem with old copper nails is that the heads have been sanded off or sheared.
The yards that built these wooden yachts would form the keel bolts in their own or local forge and then send them off to be galvanized. bolts (depending on location) would then have the threads cleaned with a die, then coated with either bitumen, white lead paste, or with paint, given a collar of caulking cotton then driven
not the sort of product you buy off the shelf!!

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I don't think this keelbolt was ever galvanised, just well greased and as you say nicely dressed with a cotton collar.
 
I replaced my keelbolts a few years ago - first time since 1882. They were of exactly your design (inserted from underneath up through the iron and oak keels, then floors).
Most had rusted away to nothing, one or two had about a thin strand of rusty metal holding the two ends together.
It was impossible to "withdraw" them. I had to lower the iron keel, hacksawing through the remains, then drill the stumps out. The remaining sections within the floors were rusted solid, so I had to remove the floors and then drive/drill out the remains, likewise in the keel.
I got a new set in wrought iron made to measure by Coventry Boatbuilders. They said there was a difference between ordinary wrought iron and marine grade, and fortunately they had just secured a supply of the marine from a dismantled boat. Otherwise it was said to be unobtainable. I've no idea whether that is true, or just sales hype.
 
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