Advise on table treatment please

NUTMEG

NUTMEG

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www.theblindsailor.co.uk
I have purloined an old desk from work that has a solid teak top. I plan to sand it down and add some fiddles around the edges to provide a replacement for the horrible cheap looking plywood saloon table aboard the boat.

I am looking for a finish that will withstand mugs of hot coffee and plates etc without scratching or leaving 'rings'. I may have to put up with scatter cushions but refuse to have placemats on board!

I would like to avoid laminate covering, the teak looks lovely.

So, is there a varnish, polish, stain or oil anyone can recommend?

Cheers.
 
For solid teak, plane the surface before you sand it. 120 grit, then pile on any good quality single pack gloss polyurethane varnish, 2 coats thinned, 3 coats coat on coat, leave a few days to harden, sand 180 grit then 2 further coats gloss or satin to choice.

Plank
 
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Planks suggestion is good though I personally use 320 on the last couple of coats. I would have a satin finish for the top and gloss fiddles. looks great. However, it is a lot of work and will require yearly maintenance. 1 ding can ruin it. the cheaper and easier method is to use some form of teak sealer. Do not use teak oil for the table top.

Chris
 
I would also advise against using an oil finish. The table on Mojo is oil finished, so I have a number of silicon mats as table mats which protect from daily wear. Unfortunately, whiklst working on the engine, I passed a removed, oily component to my mate who casually put it on the table, the oils mixed and we have a permanent black stain!

Rob.
 
Difficult one this, I reckon.

Although beautiful as teak looks, a really hardwearing permanent finish that's resistant to anything is hard to advise on.

I'm no expert, but how about painting epoxy on it and cutting it back?

My solid teak saloon table has an inlaid laminate circa 1977. I've put everything on it and it resists all. To fuss about with mats or coverings to protect it would be one more thing to concern myself with whilst away, so it's laminate for me. (excepting that Mrs S likes to make it 'pretty' now and again for guests)

best of luck, will be interesting to know what you go with.

S.
 
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Scotty_Tradewind said:
Although beautiful as teak looks, a really hardwearing permanent finish that's resistant to anything is hard to advise on.

I'm no expert, but how about painting epoxy on it and cutting it back?
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I had a new top put on my saloon table in about 2002, widening it from the original back-breaking size. It is in some form of teak, don't know exactly, made for me by a harp-maker on the Wrexham industrial estate. I gave it about four coats of West epoxy at the time and although we are careful with it, it remains in perfect condition despite having been used for half the year ever since.
 
bigwow said:
Danish oil is good on kitchen worktops.
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Sorry but have to disagree. When I fitted our new oak worktops, the supplier recommended and supplied Danish Oil. Absolute nightmare. The slightest water on the top watermarked. friend who is an architect recommended Treatex (see #2 above). It's been great. Been on now for 4 years and no marks at all. One very happy bunny.
 
So, seems to be a toss up between Treatex and epoxy! Will do a few tests and report back.

I make up, and use a mixture of pine turpentine, boiled linseed and Stockholm tar with a dash of hardener/fixer, a bit like the no-longer-available Varnol, on the rubbing strakes and gunwales, looks nice and smells wonderful. I was tempted to try this but maybe not, having read this.

Thanks chaps
 
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