Acrylic/perspex sheet

[Observer]

I want to buy a couple of pieces of 4-5mm acrylic/perspex to form glass/bottle shelves in a locker. Size ~600w x 450d. Can anybody recommend somewhere to buy the material and is it easy to cut/polish on a DIY basis or is it better to have somebody do the whole job - in which case who?

Thanks in advance.

 

[PeteCooper]

I bought some in Homebase. It seemed easy to work, but I had a slight problem with it melting as I drilled it. Didn't have any problems cutting it with an electric jigsaw.

 

[kengill]

To Polish the job afterwards use Brasso then for that final bright finish use Silvo. Use virgin lint free cloths each time.

 

[rjp]

Try your local signmaker. He'll probably have offcuts if you want a common thickness and might even cut it to size for you too.

John

 

[SvenglishTommy]

They also sell offcuts very cheap on ebay.

 

[Observer]

Thanks for all replies so far. Anybody know if it is possible to cut circular holes in acrylic with a holecutter or will I have the melting issue?

 

[stephenh]

Yes....
If you can , use a press drill with a sharp fine toothed blade and a slow speed to prevent heating. ....

Keep the protective film on the perspex.
Keep the sheet absolutely still ( any movement will probably crack it)
Make a simple jig out of wood to hold the sheet if you are nervous!!

Has anyone used a coolant for perspex ?
If so what ? wd40? water ??

 

[mikefleetwood]

I've done it with a standard hole cutter - very slowly and carefully as is is easy to shatter. Didn't use/need coolant. You can use "cone cutters" also, if the size is suitable.

On the subject of "polishing" the edges. The pros usually finish it with a gentle flame - I suggest practice on a scrap piece first though.

 

[Otter]

Any ideas on thicker sheets? I saw a beautiful pair of clear plastic companion doors on a Heavenly Twins 27 this summer. Looked about 25mm thick. Clear and scratch proof and strong enough to take hinges screwed onto them.

 

[mikefleetwood]

I think you will have to resort to Yelloy Pages, etc. to find a specialist supplier. They are usually most helpful, once you actually find one. I used to know one in NE London, if that's any use. I could send details, if you like (no idea if they still trade!).

It's wonderful stuff to work with, in thicker sections. I used various bits in student projects. Machines and finishes well, but brittle, so needs care.

 

[davierobb]

dont use perspex as its a bitch to work with, cracks easlily. Polycarbonate is easy to cut drill etc.

 

[pappaecho]

If you cut Perspex with a hole cutter, do it slowly and use water to keep the plastic cool

 

[stephenh]

aaah - water as the coolant - thank you.........

 

[andrewbodenham]

Take care when drilling - twist drills can snatch, especially when breaking through. I've found that flatting the lips of the drill bit with a fine diamond hone prevents this and gives a clean cut. Water lube and slow speed help. For cutting out I've had great success with a router, with say a 10mm bit run at lowest speed. If you use a bearing guided trimmer bit you can make a MDF template first, get that perfect, jigsaw your perspex roughly to shape then stick the template on with double sided tape and whizz round with the router to finish. The standard of finish on the edge will be excellent.
When jigsawing or even handsawing it's good to keep the protective layer on the acrylic. This is polyethylene which has a lower melting point than acrylic. The friction of the saw blade melts it first, and it is then carried into the cut where it acts a lubricant, preventing the acrylic from picking up. If the protective layer has been removed then brown polypropylene parcel tape will perform the same job. Try it and see.

 

[Avocet]

Try using light oil likw WD40 or parafin when cutting it. That works for me.

 

[Observer]

Thanks everyone. I've found a signwriter who is happy to supply the material and cut the holes. Saves testing my limited tools/skills.