Acrylic boat windows

[teapeaah]

I recently removed my badly crazed acrylic boat windows, had new panels cut to size, and ordered the appropriate length of rubber seal and locking strip.
I have now discovered that I lack the required skill to install these windows and would welcome advice on how it should be done.
In addition, should there be a reader on the Isle of Wight willing to offer practical help, I'd be willing to pay for their assistance.
Regards,

Terry

 

[Lakesailor]

You need a weatherstrip tool made by Bodyline Products and available from Brown Bros as part of the Unipart group.
It makes fitting the locking strip into the rubber seal a doddle. I did a Mini front and back screen in minutes without cracking the locking strip.
If you were in Cumbria you could borrow mine, but as you're not you'll have to get one.

 

[VicS]

Assuming you have the correct clearance and know which channel in the rubber fits on to the opening.

Clip the rubber round the opening WITHOUT STRETCHING it, ensuring that it is pushed well into the corners or inside curves, allow a good cm extra on a largish window before cutting so that the ends have to be forced together. The join should be at the centre top. Be sure to cut the ends cleanly and squarely.

Position the widow in the bottom slot and force into one corner. Work round the window with the handle of a spoon coaxing the window into the rubber and lifting the rubber over the edge of the window. At the same time applying presure with the heel of the hand. It will probably end up a liitle proud so press gently into position.

Fit the infill strip with the special tool which should be available from the suppliers of the rubber. There are two types; the better type has a roller while the cheapy one does not. It is possible to make your own cheapy type with a file handle and a bit of stout wire bent to shape and Araldited in if you are a real cheapskate like me!

Fitting the infill is easier if it is warm.

The join in the infill strip should be at the bottom and again the strip should be cut a little over length so that the ends are forced together

The first window is the most difficult but once you get the knack the others are much easier. If you have different sized windows do the larger ones first as they are easier.

It is one of those jobs which, until you get the knack, is difficult but bl**dy near impossible if SWMBO is helping.

Best of luck.

 

[billcowan]

For what its worth, The car window fitters use a bit of string for the type of window that has a H section rubber strip - with or without retaaining strip.

1) cut rubber strip as directed above.
2) butter inside inside channel with sealant and fit to glass
3) put string allway round inside the outside channel with about 1 yard hanging out each end, butter that channel.
4)have assistant hold window against outside of opening and gently pull both ends of string from inside- rubber seal pops over bodywork.
5) fit retaining strip to outside (using thumb on car windows)

 

[VicS]

No sealant used on boat windows.

Not sure about using string. It might work. I know it's used on car windows. There is a tool available but I used the spoon handle. The method I described was from my "Building instructions" It is also the same as the method in the "Wilks" catalogue, they mention a "Hook tool" where I used the spoon handle.


Wilks specify cutting the rubber overlength by 10 mm per metre and the fillerstrip 12mm regardless of length.

 

[DavidGrieves]

Hi

This is a useful site:

http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/bbCMS/bbCMSrenderPage.asp?intPageId=9#section4

http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk

There is a link to 'hints and tips' it has instructions and drawings for your type of window, they also sell the insertion tool.

Good luck

 

[dickh]

I also used the special 'tool' supplied with the filler strip - there is a knack to doing it but once mastered it is easy.

 

[teapeaah]

Thank you, gentlemen, for the advice. I can see where I was going wrong, and, with luck, I might get it right next time!

Regards,

tristar