A definitive guide to identifying warp materials

[Angele]

I have observed on a number of threads that discuss warps (eg this one and the current one on mooring compensators) that there are almost as many differing views on the correct warp material to use for a given task as there are different materials on the market. Each to his own, I guess.

My problem is identifying one material from another and, since my running rigging and mooring lines are all about 6 years old, I am going to be replacing much of it over the next few seasons. On the whole, I am happy with what is there at the mo so would be happy to replace like with like. The trouble is, that without knowing how to tell the difference between nylon, polyester and polypropylene (let alone dyneema, spectra etc) I will find that rather difficult.

Anyone care to offer up the definitive guide to identifying warp materials (eg. it stretches, it floats, etc)?

 

[LadyInBed]

my running rigging and mooring lines are all about 6 years old, I am going to be replacing much of it over the next few seasons.

Only SIX! What on earth have you been doing with them?
Try giving them a wash, you will think you have new ones

 

[MoodySabre]

For starters
General information on ropes
what meets your needs
rope selection with pics

 

[Angele]

Only SIX! What on earth have you been doing with them?
Try giving them a wash, you will think you have new ones

I do give them a wash. Well, at least the easy ones to extract from the boat (couldn't be bothered taking the halyards out just to wash them). I did say, "over the next few seasons" - things aren't too bad just yet.

At the mo it is really just the mooring lines that are shabby and beginning to shows signs of chafe, plus the bit of the dyneema spinnaker halyard where it comes out of the mast, but that can be cured by chopping off a foot or two and re-splicing.

 

[Angele]

For starters
General information on ropes
what meets your needs
rope selection with pics

Thanks MoodySabre

Those links are helpful.

Just one example. My mooring warps are 16mm, 3 strand and do not float. I take it therefore that they are not polypropylene. But, how exactly do I tell if they are nylon or polyester. Is the feel different? Or, is the only way to tell through their stretchiness and can that be observed by stretching by hand, or does 16mm nylon require a much bigger load (eg the weight of the boat) before it will stretch noticeably?

 

[Twister_Ken]

Generally, if you're not going high tech, pre-stretched polyester for running rigging, unstretched polyester or nylon for warps.

 

[LadyInBed]

mooring lines that are shabby and beginning to shows signs of chafe

So the real problem is chafe.
Identify what they are chafing on then use some sort of anti-chafing pad, which could be a length of water hose tied onto the warp, so your new set don't go down the same trail.
Mine (multi-plat) are at least 25 years old! I do have a spare set (or two), snapped up when LIDL had them on offer a couple of years back, but I don't expect to bring them into service in the near future.
If your problem is because you use your mooring lines on a Marina berth, then make up a dedicated set for the Marina (with hose on) and leave them there when you take the boat out.

 

[Angele]

So the real problem is chafe.
Identify what they are chafing on then use some sort of anti-chafing pad, which could be a length of water hose tied onto the warp, so your new set don't go down the same trail.....

... If your problem is because you use your mooring lines on a Marina berth, then make up a dedicated set for the Marina (with hose on) and leave them there when you take the boat out.

Yes. I am on a marina berth and the main problem is probably the fact that the boat does not have fairleads, so warps rub along the deck as the boat goes back and forth.

I could do as you suggest and use hose, but I would want to be sure it doesn't leave marks on the topsides of the boat (so, presumably the clear plastic stuff). In fact, replacing two breast lines and a couple of springs every 7-8 years doesn't seem that bad to me - I could buy a 100m roll and it would last me over 25 years! I haven't looked closely into costs, but I'm guessing a 100m roll costs no more than £200. Therefore, if you look at that on an annualised cost basis, £8 per annum doesn't seem that bad to me when compared to other costs of sailing. Also, by not using hose, I won't have the cost of replacing that. Presumably that would not last 7-8 years in my case. And I can see other drawbacks of hose (e.g. it getting caught on pontoon cleats if an innexperienced crewmember tries to use a slip line and gets it wrong). I also think having tubing on warps is not very aesthetic, and I don't like arriving at a visitor berth that has the owner's warps already fitted, so I don't like doing that with my berth when I am away, but that's just a personal thing.

 

[doug748]

Just one example. My mooring warps are 16mm, 3 strand and do not float. I take it therefore that they are not polypropylene. But, how exactly do I tell if they are nylon or polyester.

If its white and laid it may be nylon. If it is multiplait with a coloured tracer it may be old halyard - polyester.
Tie your samples to something solid, a bollard or car tow bar. Let out a good length (maybe 15ft + the longer the better) and pull, you will easily feel the nylon stretch (even 1" stuff) the polyester will feel pretty solid even in small diameters.
If you are anything like me you will then forget which is which so attach a fragment of cloth to the end and write down the length and material.

 

[fireball]

<snip>and I don't like arriving at a visitor berth that has the owner's warps already fitted, so I don't like doing that with my berth when I am away, but that's just a personal thing.

I'm sure you don't ... but you don't use the owners warps when visiting a berth do you?

On the subject of hoses to prevent chaff - if you've got a raised toerail that the warps ride over then you can cut a section of hose down the length and place over the rail rather than passing the mooring warp through it.

 

[Angele]

I'm sure you don't ... but you don't use the owners warps when visiting a berth do you?

On the subject of hoses to prevent chaff - if you've got a raised toerail that the warps ride over then you can cut a section of hose down the length and place over the rail rather than passing the mooring warp through it.

No I don't use their warps, I use mine. But, the owner's warps both clog up the cleats and present a trip hazard to my crew. In many ways it would be better to use the owner's warps, but that would be bad form, wouldn't it? (Sorry if I offend those who leave their warps behind. As I said earlier, this is just my personal view).

My raised toerail (which is teak and quite thick) stops short of the cleats. So, no I can't do as you suggest.

 

[fireball]

yup - I know what you mean - some berths are a positive carpet of lines - most seem to be connected to the cleats by hard eyes and shakles though, so no great issue in dropping a bowline over them and making off the loose end onboard.

 

[Twister_Ken]

Owner's warps getting in the way?

Oh dear, they've fallen in the water.

 

[Ludd]

Owner's warps getting in the way?

Oh dear, they've fallen in the water.

and into your prop?

 

[Twister_Ken]

That's why there's a Stripper down there.