3 MD1 questions

[jwaldin]

#1 When under sail if I leave my engine in neutral the prop turns quite fast at times. We actually judge our speed that way. Is it harmful to the transmission in any way?
#2 I have recently changed the cooling system from fresh water cooling, using a heat exchanger and external belt driven pump, to salt water cooling using the internal engine pump because having the external Jabsco pump meant a third belt on the fly wheel, making hand starting impossible due the extra drag. (I'm getting to the question). I had to remove the small bronze plug on the starboard side of the engine and replace it with a temperature sending unit. This would have been where I could have inserted a scacrifical zinc plug. So I don't have a zinc in the engine. How important is it to have one now that sea water is in the motor and if I should have one any suggestions as to where I could install one?
#3 When I bought the book the morse control unit had been actually bent inside by someone trying the shift the transmission into forward. I removed the unit and straightened it but when I then tried to shift into forward the stubby little lever on the transmission is so hard to move, even by hand, that I cann't use the morse control unit. The shifter is about 8 inches long. Is there a problem with transmission or are all MD1 transmissions so hard to shift? If I add some lenght to the shifter to gain more mechanical advantage then the throw length of the morse cable isn't enough to move the shifter far enough to get the motor in and out of gear. It's a quandry what do to.

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[steve28]

I have to say why, its a much better solution to have freshwater cooling, the engine lasts and runs longer and retains its value.
With your pump problem why not fit the electric version ?
If you do proceed you will also need to change the thermostat to a 65 degree instead of the 80 degree one.
anodes will need to be fitted if running on salt water and changed every season (depending on wastage)
you would be better having a method of emergency electric start and staying with the fresh water cooling !

this is my opinion only .

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[jwaldin]

When I bought the boat the dynastart wasn't working. The comutator has shorted out and the regulators' contact points have welded themselves together. I don't which came first or what caused what but I do know the wiring harness is completly botched up. I have been looking for a replacement dynastart and regulator for over a year. I've posted, advertised you name it. So at the moment I'm stuck with hand starting hence the need to have as little drag on the motor as possible hence the need to go to fresh water cooling until I get the dynastart/regulator.

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[joeh]

the dynastart may be difficult to find though not impossible. local volvo quoted me abt us$270 for a starter motor only for a MD6A. perhaps other makes of starter shld work as well.

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[vyv_cox]

Your #2

The problem with using the internal centrifugal pump is that it cannot self prime, nor be placed where there is no head to drive the suction. Unless your engine is below water level at all times it will be starved of coolant.

The need for an anode is dictated by the metallurgy of the components in contact with the seawater. However, it is probably true to say that almost no seawater cooled engines, whatever their construction, are not fitted with one as standard.

I must say that, from where I am sitting, your "corrective" actions would appear to be causing you far more difficulties and potential high costs than solving the actual problem. I would revert to the fresh water cooling and fix whatever it is that's wrong with the starter. In the end it will work out cheaper to have it right.

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[maxxi]

I agree with Steve 28 - spot on answer. Fresh water cooling is far and away a better solution for your engine, certainly if you want it to last.
Your Morse control is in all probability, not affected by the engine. The allegedly non-servicable box behind the morse control, has it's lid held on by four nasty pot-metal rivets. These can be carefully drilled out - the unit cleaned and packed with grease & put together again using machine screws in place of the rivets. Save you £90 if nothing else.

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[steve28]

there were two dynastarts on www.boatsandoutboats.co.uk a few months ago, you can also put wanted instead of for sale in the inboards section.It shows up in search engines so other people will know or see you are after one, i would be suprised if you dont get any response.

steve

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[scottie]

1/ not sure
2/ MD1 was seawater cooled zinc annode never fitted std and only starting system was dynastarter
3/you CAN NOT use a single lever control with the RB gearbox
It would seem that perhaps some DIY modifications have been done

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[jwaldin]

If the MD1 was fitted with a zinc where is the plug?
Fresh water cooling is certainly preferrable. That means using a heat exchanger right? That must mean using an external pump to pump the sea water through the exchanger to cool the water on the outside of the tubes in the exchanger. What do other MD1 owners to about having to run a pump belted off the fly wheel. That makes three belts-two for the dynastart and one for the pump right.?
I guess the other alternative is to build a bronze tube external keel cooler.
Have any MD1 owners done that?
The fresh water pump in the motor is well below the water line.
The keel cooler seems the easiest solution.
That why if I have to hand crank the motor I won't have the drag from the external pump to deal with and I can just remove the dynastart belts to lessen the drag from the v belts in their groves. I doesn't sound like there would be much drag but I've hand cranked with them on and off and there is a noticable difference.

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[penfold]

If what scottie says is true you will need a two lever unit, i.e. separate throttle and gear levers; there are a few available on the market, certainly Morse do one like that.
On the cooling front I would agree with the others; you are better off with freshwater cooling. If a replacement Dynastart cannot be found it should be possible to have it reconditioned by a specialist; there are a number of firms which cater for the classic car folk who do this kind of work. I'll have a trawl for some names as I can't think of any offhand. You may also get lucky if you try the mainstream alternator/starter motor reconditioning firms. LSUK (what used to be Lucas Service) can sometimes be helpful with things like this.

cheers,
david

<hr width=100% size=1>I employed you people to get a little railroad laid, not to dance around like Kansas City faggots!<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by penfold on 12/12/2003 16:07 (server time).</FONT></P>

 

[jwaldin]

I guess I never mentioned that I live on Saltspring Island, B.C., Canada.


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[VicS]

Methinks a few entries in your profile would be in order.

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=purple>Ne te confundant illegitimi.</font color=purple>

 

[jwaldin]

Well what can I say?
I'm a self made millionare who struck it lucky in the extruded foam childrens igloo back yard play toy market.
That's about it.

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[penfold]

Er, I don't see any major problems.
Morse are/were a US company; if you can't source a two-lever control unit locally use or get one direct from <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.teleflexmorse.com>Morse Teleflex.
What I said about the dynastart applies in North America too; find your friendly neighbourhood alternator/starter motor reconditioners and get them on the job. Failing that the US is well supplied with specialists in this line of work who cater for the classic car loons; they should be equally capable of dealing with your dynastart. Googling or buying a few old car magazines should throw up some possibilities.

cheers,
david

<hr width=100% size=1>I employed you people to get a little railroad laid, not to dance around like Kansas City faggots!