2k roller

[MagicalArmchair]

I'm painting the deck of Triola in 2k, process will be 2 coats of Interprotect epoxy primer, 2 coats of Perfection undercoat and then 3 coats of Perfection (off white and platinum two tone).

So for rolling epoxy, the West System roller seems like the best option: https://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/product/west-system-professional-roller-cover-3-x-1-34 - how about the 2k paint? Is this roller the best for 2k primer and topcoat too? I'm a bit worried about creating bubbles with it... and clearly I don't want lint ending up in the coats.

I will 'tip off' the top coats, but not the other coats I think?

 

[captainboo]

When I painted our decks/coachroof with 2k I used radiator rollers sold under the name 'Final Task'. The only source I can see now is Amazon but they cost £20 for 10 which is over twice what I paid about 5 years ago.

I was just lucky as I had got these for another job and they lasted well with 2k as we could paint the whole deck and coach roof with 2 rollers between us without them swelling too much.

You may have to try a few different rollers to see which last before failing.

We tried tipping off but it gave a worse finish with brush marks. We also tried the Jenny type brush but that also left marks so we just used the weight of the roller to 'kiss' the surface which left no bubbles behind and gave use a very good finish.

 

[MagicalArmchair]

When I painted our decks/coachroof with 2k I used radiator rollers sold under the name 'Final Task'. The only source I can see now is Amazon but they cost £20 for 10 which is over twice what I paid about 5 years ago.

I was just lucky as I had got these for another job and they lasted well with 2k as we could paint the whole deck and coach roof with 2 rollers between us without them swelling too much.

You may have to try a few different rollers to see which last before failing.

We tried tipping off but it gave a worse finish with brush marks. We also tried the Jenny type brush but that also left marks so we just used the weight of the roller to 'kiss' the surface which left no bubbles behind and gave use a very good finish.

Thanks Boo, it'll be just myself doing it, so just using one implement (a roller) rather than two (a brush (apart from 'cutting in') AND roller) would be beneficial. I note in your application, you applied a 1k paint (interdeck) once you had done all the 2k stuff? Also, no topcoat on 'bright' non, non slip areas (if you know what I mean)?

<snip>
1. Seal bare laminate with 2 coats of epoxy (probably West System).
2. Apply coat of Interprotect as a primer/futher sealer.
3. Fill dents/ridges/repairs (windlass repositioned) with epoxy filler (I'm using Hempel Profiller).
4. When smooth and faired second coat of Interprotect.
5. 2 coats of Perfection Undercoat on all areas.
6. 2 coats of Perfection Topcoat on non non-skid areas.
7. 2 coats of Interdeck non-skid on appropriate areas.

(Read more at http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?225776-Painting-the-deck/page2#moHcm4E5LugY8O0K.99) </snip>

 

[captainboo]

Hi Mark,

We only used the rollers. No paint brushes used because we had no fittings to go round as everything had been removed.

As per above all areas were painted with Interprotect as a primer but to save paint, areas that were going to be ultimately non skid were left with just the Interprotect. We didn't mask off but just ensured the edge overlapped sufficiently. ALL areas except where non-skid was going were finished with topcoat.

As mentioned in my post in the other thread of yours about painting we didn't use the Interprotect but went for Kiwigrip as this helped to cover/hide some of the old pistol grip non skid on the coach roof that we hadn't removed or sanded away completely.

 

[MagicalArmchair]

Thanks Boo, How long did it take you to go from end to end on the deck painting a coat single handed-ish? Triola is not far different to your fine vessel in length and beam.

I've just laid out my schedule of works - pretty knarly stuff to get the overcoat times right (in the brackets the 28 hour bit is the minimum overcoat time, the 4 day is the maximum before a rub down is required, all at 5 degrees)! Four days of precious holiday time used up too, ho hum.

 

[captainboo]

I think it took about hour or so with two of us painting at the same time but we did need to mix more paint during the initial first coat of each as I didn't want to mix too much and waste it.

We started at a natural break on the side of the coach roof so the join wouldn't show as much but by going back to the start point occasionally we could maintain the wet edge.

One of us went along the deck/toerail area and the side and the other over the top of the coach roof. Once we joined again on the opposite side and one person could cover the area by themselves the other worked in the opposite direction from the start to met up somewhere around the back of the cockpit.

I seem to remember that we did flat back each coat between layers to improve adhesion and remove any defects/inclusions.

The only thing we did notice is you have to be absolutely meticulous in coverage as it is easy miss areas using white topcoat over white undercoat.

 

[MagicalArmchair]

Thanks Boo, so two to three hours maximum on my lonesome, great - that means I might be able to head into the office at lunchtime if I can get painting at circa 8 if the humidity, surface temperature and ambient temperature allow, and claw back some holiday... (the more for sailing, the merrier)

I'll try and just sand after the undercoat stage and before the top coat. If I see any defects or inclusions at all I'll sand between coats too. So, adjusted roster.

 

[MagicalArmchair]

Apologies Boo, another question about your application - how much paint did you use? I've done some crude estimates, and it puts it north of what I expected:

I had only factored a single 2.5 litre Interprotect - and the same in primer and perfection. The above suggests I'd need to double my quantities, eep.

 

[captainboo]

Unfortunately I cannot remember but worst case you will get an idea from the first coat of the undercoat and can then work out how much more you will need to get in the meantime. I think I got all mine from my local chandlers who was happy to do a sale/return basis as it was normally a stock item.

You will need to factor in a reasonable amount of wastage into the rollers as they absorb quite a bit before they get going but if you use disposable gloves then we found you could squeeze the excess out with out wastage.

You are best having measuring cups ready to go and mix up smaller quantities initially until you know how much it takes to do one coat. If you then need more it will only take a couple of minutes to mix up a new batch.