2hp honda - propeller turns at idle

I don't know about your Honda, but all 2hp engines I've used are permanently in gear. Did yours used to stay still at idle?

Pete
 
I don't know about your Honda, but all 2hp engines I've used are permanently in gear. Did yours used to stay still at idle?

Pete

Yes it did. And yes I know that most don't.

From: http://www.tackletour.com/reviewhondabf2d.html
Centrifugal Clutch: Honda sells the 2HP 4-stroke outboard in two models: BF2 and BF2D. The model we are looking at here is the BF2D which is definitely worth the extra money and a must have feature that makes boating much safer. What the centrifugal clutch does is maintain a quiet and smooth idle when the throttle is all the way down. Once you turn the throttle to go the clutch automatically engages the gears and the propeller begins to spin. This handy feature allows you to take the outboard out of gear while you are fishing or when you first start the motor. Say you want to start it up but your buddy is still standing up fishing and not paying attention to what's going to happen next. In outboards without this centrifugal clutch, starting the motor means the boat will be in motion once it's on. Your buddy can take a nasty fall onto the boat or even worse into the water from the sudden forward movement. With the deluxe model you wouldn't have to worry about this problem.
 
I may be wrong, but there is probably just a bit of drag on the clutch and is no harm. I think mine does it if the tickover is too high.
 
I may be wrong, but there is probably just a bit of drag on the clutch and is no harm. I think mine does it if the tickover is too high.

I have adjusted the tickover with no success. The drag is quite a lot, something have definately changed. I will try replacing the valvoline in the gear box (if I manage to undo the screw) and see what happens. To be honest I never did in the past (though I change the oil every year).
 
I have adjusted the tickover with no success. The drag is quite a lot, something have definately changed. I will try replacing the valvoline in the gear box (if I manage to undo the screw) and see what happens. To be honest I never did in the past (though I change the oil every year).
This happens to me sometimes after I've stripped the carb. If I don't position the throttle cable clamp correctly the throttle doesn't close properly. Is the idle screw always coming into play when the throttle is closed?

PS: I've never changed the gearbox oil either!
 
If the clutch does not disengage when the idle speed is reduced its either what Philip says , a broken spring, or one (or both) of the shoes not pivoting freely.

If its one or both of the shoes sticking then it should be quite obvious if you try to turn the prop by hand that it is also trying to turn the engine.

If the spring has failed but the shoes still pivot freely you sould be able to turn the prop freely by hand in its normal direction of rotation, although the shoes may tend to drag if you turn it backwards
 
If its one or both of the shoes sticking then it should be quite obvious if you try to turn the prop by hand that it is also trying to turn the engine.

YES. The professor of this forum seems to be correct as always (what an amazing person)!
It was able to turn the prop by hand only feeling some resistance. Now, it's harder to turn it. It seems like you are turning the engine too.

Appart from been inconvinient (ie prop to always turn), does it matter if I just leave it as it is? Will it damage anything else?
 
I've had the clutch mechanism apart on my BF2D. You won't do any damage running it with dragging shoes. In your case I doubt if you'll even get excessive shoe wear, as it sounds like the clutch is permanently fully engaged rather than dragging.

Taking the whole thing apart to fix it is possible with a standard tool kit, but a bit long-winded. You have to drain the oil, then unbolt the leg from the bottom of the clutch housing (three bolts). My leg was quite stubborn to release, but came eventually when I was brave enough to pull hard. The exhaust pipe runs down the inside of the leg, and salt/corrision had bonded it in place. The other issue was the non-stainless bolts that hold the casings together - the heads rust to become nicely circular, and are a b*gger to get socket to grip on. Once the leg is off, you've a bit of work on top to remove the plastic casing, starter, fuel tank and a few other bits, so that you can remove the lower plastic casing, and get to the heads of the bolts around the clutch housing.

It's just as much fun to put back together. The tricky bit is getting the exhaust back where its meant to go, but if I can do it, anyone can.
 
May be worth having it serviced - mine was a pig to start but after a £50 service its sweet as a nut!
they can't do much for £50. I bet they only blew out the carb and checked the plug

I've dismantled mine down to the clutch, and it it takes quite a while, so at Honda rates it might not be worth it!
 
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