S75rich
New Member
My boat has 24v domestic circuit and I want to run 12 volt audio accessories , what are my options?
24v domestic running 12 accessories
- Thread starter S75rich
- Start date
jrudge
Well-Known Member
As Mapism says you use a dropper.
Make sure you get one with enough power to run the audio kit. If overloaded they run hot and will die early ( they tend to fail every 4-5 years anyway for some reason )
I use small ones from eBay for local led lights etc but don’t try and run audio from it.
Make sure you get one with enough power to run the audio kit. If overloaded they run hot and will die early ( they tend to fail every 4-5 years anyway for some reason )
I use small ones from eBay for local led lights etc but don’t try and run audio from it.
S75rich
New Member
Thanks guys, the head units will be powered perfectly off those but my 2000watt amp won’t run off one of those.. any idea on a solution to that?
Rich
Rich
MapisM
Well-Known Member
That's the reason why I recommended Alfatronix stuff.
I have several of those droppers onboard, in various power sizes (for some of the instruments, plus each car audio kit in the saloon and cabins).
All OEM fitted when the boat was built back in 2004, and all still working fine.
BTW, I half recall to have read that they are protected against overload, though obviously you are correct in suggesting to check the power needs.
Last edited:
MapisM
Well-Known Member
Chunk it overboard and fit one made for campers/trucks, hence 24V powered.
If you REALLY want to run a 2000W audio off DC, that is.
At that level, I'd rather go for AC components (also quality-wise).
jrudge
Well-Known Member
I do hope you don’t anchor near me with a 2000w amp!
Hurricane
Well-Known Member
As MapisM says, Alphatronic is the best.
I've used cheap DC to DC alternatives in the past but the Alphatronics are better and have never let me down.
My cockpit audio zone runs off one.
Actually, you would be surprised just how much power is needed for a good audio system.
I've got a Fusion amp feeding the cockpit and another one feeding the flybridge.
Both these run from 12v via Alphatronic DC to DC converters.
But the saloon is via a 240v Bose amp with sub woofer that came with the boat.
The Fusion amps are two channel 400w units each so I can see how he gets to 2000w
That said, maybe MapisM is right and he should design something using AC.
I've used cheap DC to DC alternatives in the past but the Alphatronics are better and have never let me down.
My cockpit audio zone runs off one.
Actually, you would be surprised just how much power is needed for a good audio system.
I've got a Fusion amp feeding the cockpit and another one feeding the flybridge.
Both these run from 12v via Alphatronic DC to DC converters.
But the saloon is via a 240v Bose amp with sub woofer that came with the boat.
The Fusion amps are two channel 400w units each so I can see how he gets to 2000w
That said, maybe MapisM is right and he should design something using AC.
fushion julz
Member
I have solved a similar issue on my boat...24V engine/starting with 12V electronics and accesories.
My solution was to add a 115ah Leisure battery for the 12V circuit and to keepit charged, a Victron Orion-Tr 24-12 30A charger/convertor.
Orion-Tr DC-DC Converters Isolated - Victron Energy
There is a shore power charger to keep the 24V batteries charged when plugged in and the engine alternator still charges the 24V system, too...The 12V battery is therefore charged in both scenarios.
Can be set to be switched on with the engine to avoid running down the starting batteries and the leisure battery then provides the power.
My solution was to add a 115ah Leisure battery for the 12V circuit and to keepit charged, a Victron Orion-Tr 24-12 30A charger/convertor.
Orion-Tr DC-DC Converters Isolated - Victron Energy
There is a shore power charger to keep the 24V batteries charged when plugged in and the engine alternator still charges the 24V system, too...The 12V battery is therefore charged in both scenarios.
Can be set to be switched on with the engine to avoid running down the starting batteries and the leisure battery then provides the power.
S75rich
New Member
im still pondering the implications and solutions to this issue...
im seeing the benefits of the dc/dc charger, although if im drawing some decent amperage from the 12v system, a 30amp charger probably isnt going to keep up.. would i just wire these directly to the 24v battery, or do i need to connect them to the output of the VSR so as not to flatten the 24v battery when they arent being charged
my next questions is, my 24v domestic system is banks of 12v batteries wired in both series and parallel to increase both capacity and voltage, could i not just take off one bank of these batteries stealing only a 12v supply, would the voltages and charge states balance themselves out or would i be left with a flat set and a charged set causing all sorts of charge and life issues..
in an ideal world a 200amp 24/12v converter would solve all my issuses , but this seem cost prohibitive, if i could find a unit for sale in the uk.
i have a 12v system on the boat which the generator runs off my only reservation with using the 12v system is flattening the battery then not being able to start the generator,
both 12 and 24v systems charge off shore power, and when the generator is running the 240v it makes feeds into the chargers too.
im seeing the benefits of the dc/dc charger, although if im drawing some decent amperage from the 12v system, a 30amp charger probably isnt going to keep up.. would i just wire these directly to the 24v battery, or do i need to connect them to the output of the VSR so as not to flatten the 24v battery when they arent being charged
my next questions is, my 24v domestic system is banks of 12v batteries wired in both series and parallel to increase both capacity and voltage, could i not just take off one bank of these batteries stealing only a 12v supply, would the voltages and charge states balance themselves out or would i be left with a flat set and a charged set causing all sorts of charge and life issues..
in an ideal world a 200amp 24/12v converter would solve all my issuses , but this seem cost prohibitive, if i could find a unit for sale in the uk.
i have a 12v system on the boat which the generator runs off my only reservation with using the 12v system is flattening the battery then not being able to start the generator,
both 12 and 24v systems charge off shore power, and when the generator is running the 240v it makes feeds into the chargers too.
BartW
Well-Known Member
2000W from 12V appears very unrealistic,
can you listup the equipment that you have ?
In a sound system; continues power amp consumption is usually a fraction of the specced audio power
I would not connect a permanent / heavy 12V load on the "center 12V" connection of a 24V bank unless occasionally fe as a backup start for your generator 12V bank
a load on the center point will cause a unballanced load on the 2 sides of the battery bank , causing them the wear down differently, (reinforced by the unballanced charging)
your 12V bank appears rather small for the sound system, but would be appropriate for a onboard 12V cirquit, you have the backup see above
if you really want to run a high power sound system from batt's, you would use your domestic bank in combo with a battery monitor, (= alarm or auto switch off when battery's are at ...50% charge)
and a decent 24V to 12V convertor, but as mentioned above, 2000W is not realistic,
for 2000W you need 230V volt from generator or shore power.
can you listup the equipment that you have ?
In a sound system; continues power amp consumption is usually a fraction of the specced audio power
I would not connect a permanent / heavy 12V load on the "center 12V" connection of a 24V bank unless occasionally fe as a backup start for your generator 12V bank
a load on the center point will cause a unballanced load on the 2 sides of the battery bank , causing them the wear down differently, (reinforced by the unballanced charging)
your 12V bank appears rather small for the sound system, but would be appropriate for a onboard 12V cirquit, you have the backup see above
if you really want to run a high power sound system from batt's, you would use your domestic bank in combo with a battery monitor, (= alarm or auto switch off when battery's are at ...50% charge)
and a decent 24V to 12V convertor, but as mentioned above, 2000W is not realistic,
for 2000W you need 230V volt from generator or shore power.
Hurricane
Well-Known Member
Also think of the size of the cable that would be required.
How long would your wire to be need between the 12v source (battery or DC/DC converter) and the appliance?
There is a very simple wire size vs acceptable loss calculator on this page.
DC Cable Sizing Tool - Use The Correct Sized Cables - Free Calculator
Maybe this will help you make your decision.
Run your appliance off 240v and the wires will be much more acceptable.
How long would your wire to be need between the 12v source (battery or DC/DC converter) and the appliance?
There is a very simple wire size vs acceptable loss calculator on this page.
DC Cable Sizing Tool - Use The Correct Sized Cables - Free Calculator
Maybe this will help you make your decision.
Run your appliance off 240v and the wires will be much more acceptable.
