20 (?) years of antifoul to get off - any new ideas?

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bluedragon

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The last owner of my boat never removed any AF, but just added more and more. This is now flaking off in many places but stuck like the proverbial in others. I researched the whole issue of removal on YBW two years back and decided to try a) scraping b) chemical strippers on some trial patches. I bought a scraper with provision for a vacuum attachment to the handle and this worked well, but is going to be really hard work to do the whole hull! I tried some Interstrip, but it only removed the top layers...and was SO messy it put me right off this option. I also had a go with a small orbital sander, but the dust was considerable and when trying to get maybe 1-2mm of coating off it was less efficient by far than scraping.

Soda or other blasting might be the answer, but apart from the expense, there are some risks to the hull and boatyards won't always allow this because of the mess.

So, is there anything new out there that could make the whole job easier? I don't have to get it all off, but would like at least to get back to a relatively even surface before overcoating in March.
 
it was in the same with my princess32 i used a bench sander in the end a little bit messy but done the job with a face mask
belive boatyards allow the farrow system tho not cheap a lot easier as the bench sander was hard work
 
We just had our hull cleaned by soda blasting. The boat was protected with a polythene skirt all round and then blasting canvas over the top of them. Carpet tiles on the ground to catch most of the debris. The guy cleaned nearly all of the debris up after his work and I am very happy with the results. (He didn't do behind the pads but I can't expect him to take responsibility for re-shoring my boat so no complaint there.) I cannot imagine any yard complaining about his working practice. Don't know whether he travels to S Wales, but if you want his details let me know.

It wasn't cheap (our 39 foot boat cost about £500) but compared to grit blasting which I have used before, the finish is brilliant. It has just taken the AF off and left an immaculate clean bottom. He also had a couple of bags of grit with him and offered to do the keel. He then immediately epoxied the keel to protect the bare metal.
 
I had a similar problem with my Dehler 36, although not quite as many years of build up. I purchased one of these
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Bosch-PSE-180E-Power-Carver-Scraper-23036.htm
I found that the best results were with the tungsten blade, but file or grind the corners off to avoid "digging in". Pretty effortless and I was able to bring the hull back to a really good finish in a day or so. Much cheaper alternative than blastiing. So many people came up to me in the boatyard to ask me what I was using I reckon that I could have easily sold the tool once I had finished! For a fairly modest investment there isn't a great deal to lose by buying one.
 
Tried the same as you on my 15ft MOBO with the same conclusions.

March? Plenty of time. I ended up using a 1" chisel (an old one) by hand. Tedious, but not too hard to do and not messy. Got it right back to unblemished gel coat.
I realise you have a sod of a lot more to do.
 
We too have this problem on our new to us 44ft ferro cement ketch. Most interested in Lydiamight's reply where he recommends the Bosch Power Scraper. Have had a look at the Bosch site, but can't find any mention of the Tungsten Blade, or is this the TCT Scraper Blade. Do you think this tool could be used on an epoxy sheathed ferro cement hull?
 
I hired a diesel engined jetwash unit from my local hire shop with a sandblast attachment. This sucks up dry media such as sand or other abrasive from a sack or bucket and mixes it with the high pressure water jet.
I used dry sand which left a slightly abraded gelcoat surface perfect for recoating.
I did my 22 footer in about 4 hours for a total cost of about £50. It was a bit messy though, and suitable protective clothing is essential.
 
I used the Bosch gixmo for Jissel last winter. The AF was well stuck and it was hard work! It's a bit like using a chainsaw to cut wood - it's just as hard work as doing it by hand, but you get a lot more done!

If I ever have to do it again and the budget will stand it, the Farrow system will get my vote
 
Following enquiries by pm, the company that cleaned the bottom of our boat is Biojet and the local agent to us is Mike Peonides 07866019178. He is based in Plymouth but travels all over the place. (I know he was in Poole the day before us.

He deserves the recommend as he did a very good job and gave a healthy discount for early settlement!
 
Similar to the Bosch scraper and mentioned on the fora before is the Fein multitool which vibrates as it scrapes and has a range of different attachments.
 
Quote:- <Tungsten Blade, is this the TCT scraper blade?>
Yes, TCT is an acronym for "tungsten carbide tipped". A narrow strip of carbide will be brazed onto a metal shank, since it is rather brittle, (and expensive). Such a scraper keeps its edge very much longer than a tool steel, but not for ever. you will not satisfactorily be able to sharpen it again with diy type abrasives, due to its hardness, so if you go down this route, I suggest ordering a spare, as you've got quite a lot of boat to scrape. NB A hand carbide scraper will also be good, at less cost but with rather more effort.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I've heard glowing reports of all kinds of scrapers and strippers.
All turn out to be rubbish.

[/ QUOTE ] - Exactly what we found. We tried various scraping devices including the proscraper but it was all a waste of time and an ordinary paint scraper proved to be the best method.

Use lots of masks and lay a tarp all around to catch the scrapings . . . and just do a little at a time,. loads of time before launch day.
 
I've just come back from my boat, having used the Bosch scraper on my antifoul. It seems to be doing quite a good job. I think I'll need to experiment with different rake angles on the blade as I got the impression the wide blade supplied is too shallow (it's about the same as a wood chisel as supplied).
I also have a Fein, but haven't used it for this. I can't imagine it will be any better or worse, but I could well be wrong.
And I'll still have to resort to hand scraping for some of the curvy awkward bits. It's one of those jobs that there's no easy answer - having had plenty of practice with hand and power tools over the years I'd recommend the Bosch, but it could make a real mess in the hands of a numpty.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I've heard glowing reports of all kinds of scrapers and strippers.
All turn out to be rubbish.

[/ QUOTE ] - Exactly what we found. We tried various scraping devices including the proscraper but it was all a waste of time and an ordinary paint scraper proved to be the best method.

Use lots of masks and lay a tarp all around to catch the scrapings . . . and just do a little at a time,. loads of time before launch day.

[/ QUOTE ]

What do you mean by an ordinary paint scraper? One of the triangular ones?

PS - of everything I've tried, I think it was the proscraper (with yellow handle and vac attachment?) that was the best. What was the problem with this?
 
[ QUOTE ]
What do you mean by an ordinary paint scraper? One of the triangular ones?

PS - of everything I've tried, I think it was the proscraper (with yellow handle and vac attachment?) that was the best. What was the problem with this?


[/ QUOTE ] Yes, an ordinary triangular paint scraper was the best.

Yes, that is the proscraper I mean. Corners dug in and it was basicly too sharp . . . did you round the corners off with a file, or did it just work OK 'out of the box'?
 
tungsten linbide scrapers are definately the best.

And elbow grease.

Much better blade than the triangular ones.

In my youth I was a labourer in a boat painting yard. There was no boat under 50 ft I could not do in under 4 days. Most boats in the 30 ft range would take a day or two.

And then another day sanding the left over staining and particles with a power sander.

Faffing around with anything else is just a waste of time and or money if products are involved.
 
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