1GM10 Starting problems.

snoozydude

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Gidday

I have read back through older posts on this topic and got a fair few good tips already.

So far it has only cost me a new battery which I needed anyway.

Symptoms:
Turn on electrics - hit starter button - get a clicking nosie.
I suspect is the solenoid engaging the starter gear and nothing else.

Worked for 2 weeks after engine was serviced - now this.

Starts a treat when I crank it.

Have given the contacts a cursory clean and tighten in the hope of a quick fix. Gave the starter motor a gentle wack with a pair of pliers and got one slight wirr from the starter, but nothing since. Though it would be the battery for sure so left it until I got a new one.

Haven't set to work on it yet as my most recent visits have been sailing days and not maintenance days.

So I need to plan a work schedule to sort it out.

1. Remove and clean all electrical connections - was going to use sandpaper any better tips on this.

2. Check starter button and put some CRC into it.

3. Check in-line fuse for corrosion

4. Cross fingers - start motor.

Can I turn the starter over with a spanner incase it is just a bad contact of the brushes?


Otherwise I will need to get physical and take things apart.

Any tips of removing the starter motor and solenoid. Is it OK to run without the Starter motor attached.
 

brianhumber

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Sounds from your description could be either the starter button cables becoming resistive thus volt drop in the cables prevents starter solenoid making the big internal contacts ( happened on my boat solved by rewiring) ie not enough volts on the solenoid coil to clunck it home
or these solenoid contacts are not making due to pitting and arcing over the years.

If you are happy to play with the cables try direct wiring 12volts across the solenoid control external contacts. If this works and it clunks home and turns the engine its resistive wiring if not it points to internal contacts.

These can be replaced, but its easier to get an exchange starter complete.

Third possibilty but less likley is the starter ring is burred preventing engagement but then the motor should turn without turning the engine.
 

PIGLETSDREAM

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Hi Dug,

I usede to hand crank mine all the time till the hand crank lug came off. Wanted to replace it, new crankshaft. Yanmar advised that hand start facility was for emergencys and not for continuous use. Have had same problems, re electrics. The main fuse holder and the conections on the back of the switch panel were the culprits. There is also a really good Yanmar help forum here

http://www.yanmarhelp.com/index.htm /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

Birdseye

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Assuming there are no bad contacts in the circuit, its almost certain you have a duff battery. Beg borrow or steel a known good battery and try it.
 

corncob

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Check volt drop between starter button terminal and spade connector on the solenoid it should not drop below 8volts while cranking. is the battery connected through a battery switch? this is the prime problem maker and often overlooked. Check engine earth? How long is the extension loom? Lift decompresser and see if engine cranks? if so, it would indicate poor connections or high resistance in battery cables, to be sure check continuity of battery cables, if these check out it means the battery maybe duff?? Take starter off engine and bench test, if you have a Yanmar service manual, check in electrical section. Starter spec is listed as well as test procedures, you need a multi-meter to carry this out. If the solenoid is kaput don't fork out for a replacement it is more economical to buy a complete starter.
 

snoozydude

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The Solution:

After clening the eclectrical contacts would get the occasional click from the Starter Motor and an occasional wirr.

Removed the Starter Motor and took it to an Auto Electrician who specalised in repairing them. He put it straight on a 12V battery and to my horror got nothing.

He ripped it apart while I waited and bingo, to quote him "You've got no brushes - these will fit".

30 minutes and $40AUS I was on my way to put it back in.

Its interesting I was not getting a click from the solinoid all the time.
Thank for all the tips.

I hope this helps somebody in a similar position - I had been getting horror stories about new ones costing $700.

I am reasonably handy and would not attempt to service a Starter Motor unless you really know what to look as there are too many parts that are best left alone.
 
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