1969 Snapdragon 26 Replacing Windows - Advice Needed

atieso

atieso

New Member
Joined
28 Oct 2006
Messages
13
Location
Charlotte, Vermont, USA
Visit site
Hello - anyone replaced Snapdragon windows? I was wondering if it was reasonable to use one piece of Lexan rather than having the four seperate sections with the strips of aluminum dividing them. The windows and the aluminum strips really make the boat look shabby and dated! Thanks!
 
Thanks BarneyBoy - did you eliminate the aluminum frames and screw the lexan right onto the fiberglass with a sealant in between - eliminating the aluminum/metal trim? And did you use only one solid section of lexan rather than the sections that were originally on the boat? I'd like to avoid the vertical pieces of aluminum that divide the window into four sections but maybe there is too much of a curve to the boat that wont allow for one piece of window? Hope that makes sense?
 
Just a word of caution. If using a polycarbonate such as Lexan be sure any sealant is suitable for use with it as it is susceptible to cracking caused by many sovents. Acrylic (polymethylmethacrylate) such as Plexiglass or Perspex seems to be less affected, is also a little more scratch resistant but does not have the impact resistance that polycarbonate has.
 
Also having done this on a different boat, be aware that you can see through the stuff. This means that the sealent on the overlap is very visible, make it neat, or colour in the back somehow! Also old advice tighten a bit so the sealent is a constant spread, then stop, wait and tighten against the new 'gasket'.

Seen on someone elses boat, a restraining strap behind the window, attaching the top half to the bottom. I guess this would replace the half way stainless?
 
fitted windows on friends duette and got hold of sealant on a roll , i was told pro boat biulders use the stuff as for bars in windows full length should curve ok. on my boat and the duette we used acrylic no problems
 
I have a 24 . I quite like the "quaint" old-fashioned look, which is just as well 'cos I got shot down in flames by SWMBO for suggesting that it would be easier to get rid of the frames! The Snappie's an old boat and I don't think "modern" windows would look right.

After getting a quote for new windows - and severe palpitaions when I saw the price - I refurbished my window frames (1 so far, the rest to follow) by grinding out the corroded bits and filling with plastic metal. A coat of silver smoothrite finished off a treat

Also, I'd be a bit careful about just using plastic on the long windows. I suspect that the vertical bits help to support the cabin top. If I decided to go down the frameless route, I'd definitely go up a size or two in thickness to make up for the loss of the frame.

To hide the sealant, you could carefully mask the clear part of the window and paint the bit that's up against the mastic or whatever you use as sealant. This will give you a nice clean line insead of the mucky sealant underneath. The adhesion to the window won't be quite as good, but that doesn't really matter as it's the screws you' relying on to hold everything together. I've heard it said that you should drill the scew holes in the window oversize to allow for thermal movement or they can crack.
 
Thank you Stemar! I agree about looking too modern - I was trying to avoid leaks and I thought having one continuous piece of window material would help me. My windows leak even with silicone smeared all over outside the window. I know I am on borrowed time here with the windows! Tell me, how long did it take to "do" one window? Did you save the screws or were they totally ruined? Do you have any before and after photos? Please PM- I'd love to see anything you've done to fix up your good old Snappie boat if you are able...Thank you!
 
No photos - I'm not much of a photographer!

Anyway, FWIW, it took me a week of an hour or so per evening, 'cos I'm a bit of a perfectionist and not very competent! Grinding out the corroded bits - holes right through and some stange shaped screw holes by the time I'd finished - took an hour or so. I used a cheap copy of a Dremel modelling tool. next it was fill, sand, fill, sand etc until I got the surface I wanted. Then a metallic paint to finish. If you can't find smoothrite over there, I'm sure you could use a silver metallic car paint.

I wrecked most of the screws getting them out, so it was new screws - they're called interscrews, and cost most of an arm & a leg each in my local chandlery, which was the only place that had the size I needed. I got my seals from Seals Direct, but I'm sure you'll find a nearer supplier. (Their website seems to be down at the moment, so I can't give you the part numbers)

I didn't use sealant between the windows and the boat 'cos I want to paint the deck & cabin, so would need to take 'em off again later. I used the self-adhesive neoprene seal, 6mm thick and no leaks so far - and we've had some torrential rain here recently.

Other improvements included reengining, epoxying & coppercoating the bottom, painting the topsides, new bottom bearing on the rudder and a new rudder tube. BTW, on the 24, this was a copper pipe glassed in at the bottom. It disintegrated when I refitted the rudder this winter; if I'd been in the water when it happened, I'd probably have lost the boat, so It's well worth looking at yours. If it looks like copper pipe, I'd give it a real good poking about next time you're out of the water, and even if it seems sound, consider replacing it. Copper pipe just ain't up to 40 years of sea water! I used a piece of old windsurfer mast.

I've also fitted slab reefing and lazy jacks, which mean that I can get a decent sail shape when reefed and get the sail down in the worst of conditions without any fuss.

I love my Snappie, and have done a lot on her, but I don't pretent to be an expert - if there's a wrong way to do something, I'll invariably do that before I find the right way /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif, but feel free to PM me if you want to ask anything!
 
replaced windows in snappy 26 four years ago. Used polycarbonate with silicone sealant. Did not use old frames just tided edges of opening and bolted through using bolts and nyloc nuts. Would never use perspex as it cracks very easily and is very difficult to work with, poly is indestructible and very forgiving when cutting/drilling. Do not use any solvent on polycarbonate as it will satin it.
 
Davie - did you use one long piece of polycarbonate, eliminating the vertical strips between each window section? Have you had any leaks? Any photos you could provide - I'd be interested since I was considering going this way instead of using the old aluminum frames...Please pm if you have any photos of your handiwork. Thanks!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top