12V connector

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Just thinking about the recent posts about using 12V inflators...

As Tripleace pointed out, they draw a fair old current. Mine has croc clips, but frankly it's too much hassle opening up the hatch to get at the batteries. Does anyone know of a suitable plug/socket arrangement that I could wire in near the transom, so I could just plug the thing in?

It would need to be waterproof when not in use, and capable of handling the 25A mentioned. Haven't seen anything in the swindlers...


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hi graham, iv'e used the "anderson plug" before on 36Volt deep cycle traction motors. can't remember where we used to get them though.

not waterproof but cheap and easy, rot resistant plastic cover and zinc over brass connectors. we used them on floor polishers and cleaners. the manufacturers were Wetrok. but i think it's a common high current connector.

hope this helps, steve.

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://homepage.ntlworld.com/s.amos/index.html>http://homepage.ntlworld.com/s.amos/index.html</A>
 
hi graham
i would run a 4mm supply to the stern (thats if there isn't one there already) and fit the same type of plug and socket as the shore supply then you know it will take the load and be water proof

regards

julian


<hr width=100% size=1>WHAT??? more petrol!!!
 
Which is fine, until some twot plugs 240AC into the domestic battery bank, of course. That's why I'm trying to avoid anything that looks remotely mains-like.

Incidentally, just bought a 180Ah domestic from CPC Batteries in Twickenham for £140 VAT, so thanks to whoever put me on to them.
 
hmm. How about a nice compressor? You need a genny, and dashboardish/cockpit switches to turn on the genny, then the compressor, and have a nice outlet from the copmpressor to the rear. I have all this, but never ever used it.

Otherwise, if you can't be bothered to [whatever] best is to get someone else to do it, kids for example.

Or, join seastart and name the dinghy. Then each time you need it inflating just callem up 30 minutes beforehand with a totally deflated and possibly punctured dinghy problem. I bet people call them out with much dafter problems than this.

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Re: Job sorted

OK, could you please remove Genny/Compressor. Will PM you delivery address. TIA

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Or insulated "test terminals" or "touchproof 4mm sockets"(see maplin,RS etc) There are heavy duty ones(30A) with no touchable contacts...pair of those somewhere convenient forked terminals or " 4mm plugs" on pump cable.

Not properly w/proof of course, but v.cheap & will take the current w/o melting. Contacts often gold plated, so shouldn't corrode too fast.
 
Re: Job sorted

They're yours!

Actually, there will be rather a lot of packages as the compressor didn't work when i turned it on, so i stripped it down to investigate the problem. But then I realised that the generator wasn't turned on! So, I then pressed the generator "start" button - but the other generator sprang into life, not the main one. Whereupon I stripped down the main gennerator - only to realise that i had pressed the start button for the *wrong* generator! Only a total dolt would do this sort of thing, surely?

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Re: Not really

No. A total dolt would strip the starter motors rather than check the engines were in neutral... or forget the killcord.

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I've just bought a 12v inflator which is supposed to do car tyres, infaltable boats etc. and work from a ciggie lighter socket (it has a ciggie lighter plug). Does this mean its a bit dodgy to work it from similar socket on the boat? The manufacturers seem to think its OK.

<hr width=100% size=1>Trev
 
Ah, no. Different animal entirely. Try to use one of those to blow up a tender and you will grow old waiting. The type we're talking about here are low pressure, high volume ones, and go like the clappers. Looks like a small turbocharger with a leccy motor the size of a coffee mug on the side and costs about 60 or 70 quid. Will inflate a Quicksilver 270 Airdeck in about 3 minutes, if that.

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Suspect the one you've bort may be a bit weedy compared to the LVM, that would probably melt any lightweight socket hence the crocodile clips.

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Re: Not really

What are you trying to imply about the Kill Cord!!

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=red>... too late now, I've bought the boat... just waiting to use it!!
 
Trying to think of a working arrangement but it occurs to me that you might be able to design a switched socket using a battery isolation switch which is certainly man enough for the current?

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.boatsontheweb.com/> Website, Photo Gallery, Chat Room, Burgees</A>
 
Re: Nothing, nothing

Why, do you have something that you need to share with the forum, Derrick?

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Re: Nothing, nothing

Have already posted - and it is my very first boat. Not that I'll make the same mistake again now! /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=red>... too late now, I've bought the boat... just waiting to use it!!
 
I was grappling with the same problem and was considering just putting a couple of studs (busbar) somewhere convenient with leads going directly to the battery. It would then be possible to clamp on crocodile connectors from LVM, or anything else, without having to worry about burning out connector.

Alternatively you may want to to look at

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.indexmarine.co.uk/>http://www.indexmarine.co.uk/</A>

who have connectors at up to 75 A.

Tell us what you do and how well it works.

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Trouble is, the ones that would take the current are huge and cost 40 quid. I've ordered a set of Neutrik Speakon connectors (will take 40 amps for 1 minute, or 20 continuously). See <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.neutrik.com>http://www.neutrik.com</A> - not strictly waterproof, but not exposed pins and idiot proof. I'll report back later...

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I find the LVM inflater works fine with a cheapo portable battery pack (£16ish from Makro at the moment) and its then easy to pump the dingy up anywhere convenient.

<hr width=100% size=1>Gavin
 
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