fivebucksa
New member
Just imported an American boat. Whats the best way to convert to 240volts.
110v- 240v
- Thread starter fivebucksa
- Start date
Vulcan
New member
Depending on size of boat and complexity of wiring, I would seriously consider rewiring it. 12V circuits should be ok.
ongolo
New member
What all runs on 120V? I could imagine an inverter produces 110V for certain things that you may have to replace and a battery charger that charges batteries from 110Volt? What else?
regards ongolo
regards ongolo
hightech
New member
You could use an industrial transformer to drop from 240V to 110 if you did not want to go to the trouble of changing out all your US spec equipment. You also get electrical isolation like they use n the building sites etc. This type of transformer is readily available.
A
Anonymous
Guest
There's a lot to be said in favour of that, and leaving the earth off. Just protect the occupants with an ELCB (RCB). If the mains is floating you can touch the live wire without getting a shock - just like little birds which sit on the power lines do /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Mind you, it's a controversial subject so I'm running and ducking.
Mind you, it's a controversial subject so I'm running and ducking.
npf1
Active member
Change the wiring???? Not so, the wiring for 110V is heavy guage due to the lower voltage so it's no problem to use it for 240V if you want to.
The transformer route is not a problem, however the construction site transformers are apparently not suitable for a continous load so it 'could' be worth considering getting a continuous duty transformer. I say 'could' because the cost of a continous duty step down transfomer in the UK (i was quoted £700 for 3kW) is ridiculous so probably worth keep buying the contruction site type and chucking them away if they fail (about £50 from Screwfix). Another option, which is what I am doing, is to buy a decent 240-110 step down in the US where they are about £150. Rip off Britain as usual!!!
The transformer route is not a problem, however the construction site transformers are apparently not suitable for a continous load so it 'could' be worth considering getting a continuous duty transformer. I say 'could' because the cost of a continous duty step down transfomer in the UK (i was quoted £700 for 3kW) is ridiculous so probably worth keep buying the contruction site type and chucking them away if they fail (about £50 from Screwfix). Another option, which is what I am doing, is to buy a decent 240-110 step down in the US where they are about £150. Rip off Britain as usual!!!
john_morris_uk
Well-known member
How many items on the boat are voltage dependant? The 12v side is obviously completely irrelevant to this discussion. Assuming that you haven't got a microwave the only other items that will run on 110 are the charging system and the immersion heater in the calorifier.
If it was me, I would be changing the immersion heater (a few pounds and a bit of hassle in changing it), Then I would check that the charger actually does need changing because our Sterling switch-mode charger will run on 110-250 volts 50 or 60 hz automatically without touching it. Ok, if the charger needs changing, its still less than the £700 suggested for a continuous rated transformer.
You can go down the transformer route, but why bother? You may also need to check the ratings of the rcd and other switches, and change any sockets to UK style, but you can use the existing wiring with no problem, and you will end up with a proper job, rather than a sort of bodge that any future purchaser will look sideways at!
If it was me, I would be changing the immersion heater (a few pounds and a bit of hassle in changing it), Then I would check that the charger actually does need changing because our Sterling switch-mode charger will run on 110-250 volts 50 or 60 hz automatically without touching it. Ok, if the charger needs changing, its still less than the £700 suggested for a continuous rated transformer.
You can go down the transformer route, but why bother? You may also need to check the ratings of the rcd and other switches, and change any sockets to UK style, but you can use the existing wiring with no problem, and you will end up with a proper job, rather than a sort of bodge that any future purchaser will look sideways at!
TrueBlue
Well-known member
Thinking aloud, no direct practical experience, BUT -
Screwfix do an "auto transformer", which "drops" 240V to 110V 3kVA - unavailable - **bother** at £47ish (just for reference purposes), found one from www.warehousedirect.co.uk - Cat no S229-32 for £69.95. What you need is an isolation transformer which are more expensive, so that you avoid all the faffing around with Galvanic whatsits.
Both sorts of transformers are heavy-ish and ugly.
What I really wanted to say is that there ought to be a nice electronic solution - sort of a 110 to 240 inverter, but who makes them; I haven't a clue or looked. have a word with Charles Stirling if you have the bottle; but I suspect that the electronic way will be more expensive.
The whole thing begs the question:-
What is 110V on the boat,
* equipment?
* Cabling?
* sockets?
Gi'e us a clue and perhaps some bod can give a better quality answer.
Simple straight answer is Screwfix No: 73851 @ £34.99 if load is less than 750W,
Warehouse direct at 70squid up to 3Kw. After that......
OK for starters???
Screwfix do an "auto transformer", which "drops" 240V to 110V 3kVA - unavailable - **bother** at £47ish (just for reference purposes), found one from www.warehousedirect.co.uk - Cat no S229-32 for £69.95. What you need is an isolation transformer which are more expensive, so that you avoid all the faffing around with Galvanic whatsits.
Both sorts of transformers are heavy-ish and ugly.
What I really wanted to say is that there ought to be a nice electronic solution - sort of a 110 to 240 inverter, but who makes them; I haven't a clue or looked. have a word with Charles Stirling if you have the bottle; but I suspect that the electronic way will be more expensive.
The whole thing begs the question:-
What is 110V on the boat,
* equipment?
* Cabling?
* sockets?
Gi'e us a clue and perhaps some bod can give a better quality answer.
Simple straight answer is Screwfix No: 73851 @ £34.99 if load is less than 750W,
Warehouse direct at 70squid up to 3Kw. After that......
OK for starters???
VicMallows
New member
Hey! glad you suggested it not me!
Had a trip last night (highly unusual) when a filament bulb went in cooker hood (probably moisture to metalic background). This morning electric shower failed giving an earth fault. Usual cause is steam iron, but wife was in bed!
Vic
Had a trip last night (highly unusual) when a filament bulb went in cooker hood (probably moisture to metalic background). This morning electric shower failed giving an earth fault. Usual cause is steam iron, but wife was in bed!
Vic
TigaWave
New member
I've found that most 110or 240v items have internally changeable links on the transformer to enable them to run on either voltage. I just changed the links for instance on my battery charger when plugged into 110v supplies. So worth checking the items first as it could be as simple as moving a plug into a different socket. Items that wont be changeable are 110v motors/ power tools maybe the blender for the Margharitas.
Colin_S
New member
One thing with the site transformer idea that 'may' be a problem and could be dangerous is that they are centre tapped and give 55v on each wire unlike conventional 240v system which is 240v on live and 0v on neutral. Most isolators / switches on mains installations only break the live feed wich would potentially leave 55v on the neutral circuit.
VicMallows
New member
But I thought Lemain was suggesting a totaly isolated 110v secondary? In that case, in theory, you can touch either side quite happily, but don't grab hold of both conductors at once! However, in this scenario an RCD won't work at all.
(theoretical discussion. do not plan any installations based on this post).
Vic
(theoretical discussion. do not plan any installations based on this post).
Vic
William_H
Well-known member
I think if you have moved the boat to UK then you should rwewire the system ie change the power sockets to suit UK appliances. If you have any systems that you want to retain then either convert them to 240 volt ie emersion heater or replace. If there is any low power appliance you wish to retain that runs on 115 v only then would you consider a transformer. Certainly microwave should be replaced (cheaper than buying a suitable transformer) and the battery charger may be convertable or you could replace it for not much more than the cost of a transformer to suit. Get the whole installation checked out by an expert as a new 240v installation note the wire itself should be fine. good luck wilol
CharlesM
New member
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