Ink
Active member
As being fitted to Tally-Ho!
In k
In k
You have to include the heading as well...Am I missing something?
The OP reads
"As being fitted to Tally-Ho!
In k"
Nothing else.
eh?
Done right, they're still a good way to link two battery banks. Run on 1 most of the time, with a VSR to charge both banks when the engine's running, switch to 2 (domestic) to start if the starter battery's a bit low, with an option of both together if needed.
I reckon they're only problematic if they have to be changed by hand to charge the two banks, when the problem isn't with the switch, it's with the forgetful switcher, and we're all forgetful when tired.
It’s an old debate but if the switches are only used by one or two people who agree on the routine and know what they are doing (e.g. never start on Both, never put to Off when I engine is running) then they work well without any problems - that was certainly my experience. My current boat is ex charter so set up in a much more foolproof way.Or when switched to both to start and the forgetful switcher forgets to switch to one of the them when the engine is shut down. For my mind - separate isolators are the only sensible way to do this. Put a link switch in with a removable key and it becomes much harder to accidentally leave everything joined up . if required - start the engine - make sure it's happy then remove the key linking the batteries.
Done right, the only time you'd switch to both would be when the starter battery's a bit low. If it's too far gone, I'd use 2 to start with the domestic bank so the flat one doesn't drag the good one down, but either case should be rare and indicative of another problem. On Jissel, the 12B was also the starter battery isolation switch, so SOP was to turn it to one before starting the engine and forget about it until we left the boat.It’s an old debate but if the switches are only used by one or two people who agree on the routine and know what they are doing (e.g. never start on Both, never put to Off when I engine is running) then they work well without any problems - that was certainly my experience. My current boat is ex charter so set up in a much more foolproof way.
My routine was a little different. 2 (domestic) when I got on the boat and that was the normal position. Over to 1 to start the engine and 15 minutes later or at 13.3V (whichever was later) through B to 2, where it stayed until the engine needed restarting again, or if finally leaving the boat at the end of a trip then from 2 to Off. I was always ready to switch to 2 to start the engine but never needed to.Done right, the only time you'd switch to both would be when the starter battery's a bit low. If it's too far gone, I'd use 2 to start with the domestic bank so the flat one doesn't drag the good one down, but either case should be rare and indicative of another problem. On Jissel, the 12B was also the starter battery isolation switch, so SOP was to turn it to one before starting the engine and forget about it until we left the boat.
It is all in the title...... One of our favourite electrical topics. !-2 Off Both switches. Not sure how we got to oil lights unless gave up on the switch.Am I missing something?
The OP reads
"As being fitted to Tally-Ho!
In k"
Nothing else.
eh?