Recent content by wfe1947

Weight is the issue. It's a Mariner 25 and sits on the back of my Shetland Cadet on my drive. (Jaguar 25 long gone!). Weighs about 140lbs and I'm 76. Also with remotes it would be pain to remove. While it stays on the boat I can run it a few times over winter. Thanks for all the responses.

Mast is off the boat (18 foot Leisure 18) over winter. Last time that I stepped the mast, the shrouds were left connected at the deck. This caused a problem with the top shroud t piece location in the mast slots. Would it be better not to have the shrouds connected to the deck mounting and...

I had a similar problem with my non-tailing winches. I fitted a jamming cleat after each winch and this works really well.

It is a Leisure 18, only 12 were made so quite rare. Will it matter (if I just treat loose areas). Probably not, especially as it is on Windermere. Some say that anti-foul is just to make the boat look pretty on the hard!

Advice please. The anti-foul on my Leisure 18 is looking a bit rough, with some chipping off. How aggressive can you be without damaging the underlying gel coat or fibreglass? I don't need to remove it all but just get it to a smoothish finish prior to re-antifouling it.

Just been cleaning the black mould from some areas inside the cabin on the inside of the hull. I noticed that the mould is present on the foam backed side lining but not on the areas where the inside of the hull is just painted. Any reason for this?

Yes I do have steel eyes on the end of the strops where they attach to the mooring buoy. I will now use a thicker line for the pick-up buoy condidering that the previous one failed.

No, I should be able to attach one strop to starboard, loop the connecting line around the bow and attach the other strop to the port cleat. May need a bit more than 1 metre but I only have an 18 foot Leisure 18 so should be doable.

I've used various methods for attaching the line from the pick-up buoy to the mooring strop and none were particularly good. Last year I used an 8mm three core, using a bowline to attach to the bottom of the pick-up buoy and then tied the other end to one of the strops, just below the spliced...

Launched on Windermere yesterday without previously checking the mooring, not ideal but I have ben pushed for time lately. Also, I left the mooring strops on the mooring buoy over winter, again not recommended. Anyway, arrived in the area of my mooring and couldn't make out which was mine...

No, I don't replace the strops twice per year. I take them off once anda put them back once each year. I do trip the buoy by hooking a rope around the riser some distance below the buoy to attach/detach the strops. Even with mu din pulling frim the now of mu Boat, it is difficult. If I use two...

All fine but no comment on my possible use of two short chains, which once in place, allow for easy access to strops for joining and removing. Also, I'll be nearly 75 the next time I have to do it!

No problems in terms of performance but very difficult to lift the buoy. My son helped last year by hauling it up from the boat's bow but I could only just access the bottom of the buoy from the tender. Could even have been a high water level on the lake and not much slack on the riser chain...

Thinking about my twice yearly task of removing and refitting mooring strops to the riser chain below the mooring ball. I find this very difficult in terms of tipping the mooring ball to gain access to the riser chain. The boat is on a Windermere mooring. What I am thinking of doing is...

Yes, I have the fore/aft line along the hull. Last month I didn't use it after picking up the mooring strop from the cockpit anda just walked the strop up to the bow. Quite difficult even with not much wind. Will now mostly use the fore/aft line threaded through the end loop in the strop. I...