Recent content by rptb1

We bought the unit from eBay and it appears to work. The capacitor C1 is 10µF in that unit. I will try to revive the old one at some point and will update here if we get anywhere, but it may be a while. We have a lot to do to get this boat launched!

This will certainly help with testing and fixing. I don't suppose there was a table of component values attached?

Indeed, though very old ones (e.g. in early 1980s micros that I have fixed) dry out and explode even with the current in the right direction. It is possible that the previous owner did something dodgy with the battery though. Yes, I think that's likely. I can likely guess a reasonable...

I'm helping to fix up an old boat which has a Seafarer Mark III depth sounder. It was probably working a few years ago, but is dead to the world now. Electrolytic capacitor C1 on the board has decayed and likely exploded (see photo). Can anyone tell me what capacity it had? What I'd *really*...

For what it's worth, sample cones I have from OceanBrake last year are made of heavy fabric with reinforcing tape on the leading and trailing edges. The cones in the video do not appear to have these tapes.

Just checking, but do you mean UHMWPE (Dyneema, Spectra, etc.) HDPE is the plastic used to make milk bottles. HDPE rope does exist, but I'd be surprised if it was suitable. I was recommended to consider UHMWPE by OceanBrake.

I wonder. Most of the time my boat is held in place by the weight of the anchor chain. But when things get serious, it's the anchor that stops the chain moving too far by biting the bottom. So I suspect any big weight works quite well, but I'd want some bite in a storm.

I've written up my repair work on the rudder in this article on my blog. I'll be following up with an article about applying the osmosis barrier, probably tomorrow.

No magnetic metals detected. If the tangs are steel, then it's stainless. I know at least one other Coromandel that had rusty steel tangs, so everyone should check their own.

I thought you might be interested in this close-up of the rudder gelcoat. These streaks run vertically all over the rudder, and they're not on the surface but buried on the back of the gelcoat, next to the laminate. Brush marks? That would support Concerto's theory. But the deck and hull have...

Oh definitely! I'm generally very pleased, even though I keep finding weirdnesses like this one. I did that last week, by coincidence. Blog entry linked. I built a whole new box that also allowed me to adjust my mast rake. Blog entry linked. Actually, I'm a bit aware of you. I used an old...

That's bascially what I thought and what I plan to do. I have epoxy to hand for the barrier coat, and a tub of microbeads that I'm fairing with anyway. Thanks for helping out with your experience.

Yes, those do look similar. Same factory, same resins, possibly the same dodgy spray gun operator! I think the story about freezing opening up the cracks is plausble also, since Tammy stood in a Scots garden under a tarp for many years. You didn't come back to that thread with results. What did...

That seems very plausible given what I've heard about Newbridge, and given what my surveyor said. (He's retired now or I'd bug him about it.) It also makes quite a bit of sense given the way they're distributed around. There aren't that many bumps with cracks, so it won't be a huge job to fix...

Bear in mind I know the complete history of this boat. This is the original gelcoat and there has been no previous osmosis treatment or indeed any kind of repair to the gelcoat or laminate.