Recent content by RMC

My Merlin had 'dimples' where the chain plates are attached to the hull, it is a known Westerly characteristic and mentioned on all previous surveys as a cosmetic manufacturing defect. A fibreglass repair specialist was able to fill and fair the dimples using gel coat.

The LV Neutral is connected to the centre point of the star windings on conventional HV/LV distribution transformers.

I made a poker gasket from 1.5mm think industrial gasket material and used some blue gasket paste to stop the usual slight seepage that occurs.

It's quite a long time ago but I think it's the actual spherical pre combustion chamber that should not be scored. I did have to remove the injector as I had combustion gases leaking past the sealing copper washer. There should be a heat shield below the washer from memory.

When I removed the head from my GM10, the dealer warned not to score the pre combustion chamber when pressing in the washers/heat shields or it will not start. He pressed in the parts for me and all was good

I have just replaced a couple, simply drilled out the holes to the next metric size, either 3 or 4mm. I did pack the screw terminals with silicone grease and also greased the pins and sockets. I also wrapped the cable entry, plug and socket with self amalgulating tape to provide extra protection.

They look like tee fork rigging slots, numbers 6,7 refer to the rigging wire size - 6mm, 7mm

My DV20 Bryce HP Injection Pump Started Leaking From the delivery valves, where they screwed into the pump. Remove the injector pipes, carefully unscrew the delivery valves, and don't loose the spring and valve within. I replaced the o ring (LP) and copper washer (HP) and it cured my leak. The...

I think I would check the basic stuff first, could be a partially blocked fuel filter or exhaust elbow and the load of the alternator is the final straw.

I was somewhat surprised to see (admittedly two) small 55 AH Optima red tops used as starter batteries for a 500kva diesel powered (MTU 10V 1600) generator. I understand the diesel engine is a 10 cylinder 17.5 Litre beast. One 'red top' should be fine for my Bukh DV20!

I can vouch for that, was recently anchored below Trelissick and was circled by the Harbour Master, had to explain that although my boat has 'Dingle' on the stern I was local and actually lay up in the winter next to his Workshop!

I had the same thought, he raised the aft mounts to align to the height of the coupling, but the gap between the coupling flange faces needs to be the same at 12, 6, 3 & 9 o'clock positions using a feeler gauge. This is assuming the coupling has two flange faces.

I would spray all visible joints and especially the cooker isolation valve with leak detection spray if not already done to eliminate them.

I have had a similar fault and it was high resistance in the battery isolator switch, but you have bypassed this with the jump leads. Hopefully you haven't flooded the engine with raw water after the fuel filter change buy turning it over on the starter motor with the cooling water seacock open...

I try to use 'mid' link top chain as it will allow suitable sized tested shackles to fit between the links, I have had the same problem as you with short link chain. I would not however use long link chain due to its tendency to twist and bend.