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Agreed. CT1 is what I use. Score the back of the stainless to ensure good adhesion.

Surely, just covering the alloy with stainless strip will cause the alloy to crumble even faster? Frames are all good, just scruffy.

Stop messing about Fred, take the whole engine and save all that fiddling around with separate bits!:cool:

Good Point!:rolleyes:

Oh no! Now I'm in trouble again. :mad:

I'm not allowed to say. But if you were on the M5 near J27 I could wave to you!

Thanks for your confidence Paul, but the cost would be . . . a lot! But I don't mind having a look.

I considered that Rog' but as you know the work required would be very time consuming. Apart from that my hardtop is partly supported by...

If anyone mentions my stainless work I end up on the naughty step. Doesn't seem fair somehow.

Not cheap then! :cool:

I am planning to sheath my old alloy frames with stainless flatbar to match everything else on the boat.

Not what you are after but may be of interest:- £250 Brother DB2-B755 Industrial Sewing Machine Newton Abbot Currently on Facebook...

A boat is for dreaming about and plotting your next project while at work.

As said, the plumbers bender won't work but Martin-J's method will. If you happen to be around J27 M5 I'll bend then for you in a few...

You will need to either grind out each crack individually or more easily, grind off the whole area. You then either re-gel or fair with...