I've re done mine twice, removed with a long flexy scraper sharpened, hammer in and sideways with fairy liquid to lube..
Important to space the window on a tall bed of mastic to allow for the shear when expanding and contracting..
Mask up well to keep a neat edge.
I'd be interested In your cost...
I used basecoat lacquer 2k ( ppg) and found the clear coat started to deteriorate at the waterline after a few years..boat was on the ( tidal ) Deben.
Perhaps a direct gloss 2k wouldn't oxidise..
I've always marvelled at the cost of a boat paint job compared to a car, surely less prep on a boat ?
I used basecoat lacquer 2k ( ppg) and found the clear coat started to deteriorate at the waterline after a few years..boat was on the ( tidal ) Deben.
Perhaps a direct gloss 2k wouldn't oxidise..
I've always marvelled at the cost of a boat paint job compared to a car, surely less prep on a boat ?
I like being able to see if water is present in the glass bowl...wouldn't you lose that with the conversion. ?Agree it's a chore with the CAV unit, I undo the bolt, and drop everything into a plastic bag..less mess.
..and put a slot into the nozzle, and some pads under the acrylic to give a high bead to accommodate the expansion/contraction..or the sealant will shear and fail..screws give more problems..If the doom mongers had ever removed a properly bedded window, they would realise screws are superfluous..