Woodwork refurbishing, my recent PowerPoint presentation.

[laika]

2 months doesn't count as a resurrection does it? "There's a big difference between mostly dead and all dead".

I note that you used a Morrells acid catalyst lacquer. Some years ago Trafalgar sold me symphony coatings satin pre-catalysed lacquer MN2002-0040 which they claimed was what westerly used (I'm guessing they used several different products at different points) and I used to reasonably good effect (given my lack of natural talent) on a couple of things. I'm a rank amateur when it comes to this kind of thing: Would there be merit to one product over the other and what kind of shelf life do they have?

 

[Concerto]

2 months doesn't count as a resurrection does it? "There's a big difference between mostly dead and all dead".

I note that you used a Morrells acid catalyst lacquer. Some years ago Trafalgar sold me symphony coatings satin pre-catalysed lacquer MN2002-0040 which they claimed was what westerly used (I'm guessing they used several different products at different points) and I used to reasonably good effect (given my lack of natural talent) on a couple of things. I'm a rank amateur when it comes to this kind of thing: Would there be merit to one product over the other and what kind of shelf life do they have?

2 months is not resurrection. I have not heard of Symphony Coatings doing a lacquer, but they do produce Jotun, Hempel, Sikkens, so quite possible. The reference number or satin pre-catalysed lacquer do not produce any products, but they do sell a German brand Hesse-Lignal that produce lacquers.

This is the latest piece finished yesterday with Morrells, it is the port side main cabin berth front that pulls out to make a double berth. Looks good for being 40 years old sapele plywood.

 

[fredrussell]

Manu thanks Concerto, the last shot of her looks fantastic. A job well done.

 

[laika]

The reference number or satin pre-catalysed lacquer do not produce any products, but they do sell a German brand Hesse-Lignal that produce lacquers.

What I have is this:
NM2002-0040 - Symphony Coatings
No price mentioned so maybe they don't make it any more. I must have bought it maybe 6+ years ago and last used it 5 years ago (so maybe that's past its tin life).

That was my only experience of lacquer: I used a brush and it wasn't too bad. I was wondering what the differences in ease of use vs other factors might be when comparing acid catylyst vs a pre-cataysed lacquer (which I note that morrells also do).

Hmm after a bit more research of all the the options even within the morrells range I'm even more confused by all the alternatives. I notice they offer a pre-catalysed lacquer formulated for brushing.

 

[Concerto]

What I have is this:
NM2002-0040 - Symphony Coatings
No price mentioned so maybe they don't make it any more. I must have bought it maybe 6+ years ago and last used it 5 years ago (so maybe that's past its tin life).

That was my only experience of lacquer: I used a brush and it wasn't too bad. I was wondering what the differences in ease of use vs other factors might be when comparing acid catylyst vs a pre-cataysed lacquer (which I note that morrells also do).

Hmm after a bit more research of all the the options even within the morrells range I'm even more confused by all the alternatives. I notice they offer a pre-catalysed lacquer formulated for brushing.

I agree the available finishes are very confusing. The information on Morrells is from the Fulmar Inadee web site in the list of suppliers he had identified. Suppliers

Details of the standing and running rigging, plus the sail dimensions is so useful for other Fulmar owners. The creator of the web site sold Inadee several years ago but has kept the information online.
Fulmar Yacht Inadee

It does seem all lacquers are best sprayed, but a good finish can be achieved with brushing. After stripping back to bare wood and checking no old finish is left on the wood, I find the first coat soaks in. The second coat would be applied a few hours later and once dry is lightly sanded before the third and final coat. The specification says it has a pot life of over 24 hours, however I found that after 10 minutes the mix is starting to thicken and does not apply as smoothly. My preference is to not add thinners, but mix small amounts and quickly apply. The largest quantity I mix is 60ml and that goes quite a long way and also helps reduce wasteage. A small measuring cup and small syringe, along with a stirrer is all you need. Another trick I use is to keep the brush in thinners and dry it off on kitchen paper when I need to use .

 

[LittleSister]

Concerto, you mention having to clear out the finish from dents and dings that the sanding misses. Did you attempt to fill such dents at all, or just give them the same finish as the 'surface' wood?

 

[Concerto]

Concerto, you mention having to clear out the finish from dents and dings that the sanding misses. Did you attempt to fill such dents at all, or just give them the same finish as the 'surface' wood?

No I never fill any of the dents as it shows more than having a slight dent. The dents do not show and the woodwork is 40 years old and cannot be expected to be perfect either. Scratches are slightly different, and are almost impossible to hide, I just have to accept them.

I am not looking forward to the screw holes in the bulkhead at the front of the chart table, there are over 60 to fill and colour match. Oh, that will only take a couple of minutes, ha,ha.

 

[LittleSister]

Looking at your helpful photos, and your impressive results, makes me think -

a) It's really worthwhile to do it: it makes such a difference.

and -

b) If you do one bit, it shows up all the rest, so once you start you're committed to doing the whole boat!

Also, I can now see that much of my woodwork is Sapele.

Thanks a lot for taking the time to post your photos and explanations.

 

[chrishscorp]

Thank you for this (and for what you've published previously): I am clueless when it comes to woodwork having given it up at school at the earliest opportunity and the clarity with which you've explained what you've done with concerto has inspired me to sort out my own tired looking woodwork when I'm allowed back to my boat.

You've also reminded me that perhaps I shouldn't just be ignoring WOA mails as I can now attend meetings without leaving the flat (and sorry that that is what I must have done as I missed your presentation)

If you log in to the website you will find there is the start of a library of zoom talks on a variety of subjects. Log in is with the WOA membership number and your existing pasword