Volvo penta kad44 only revs to 1200rpm

A_8

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Hi yep supercharger is making heaps of air can’t hold your hand over the hole when you take a manafold plug out
Ok, I think for now forget about the SC. Looking at the video again it seems when you loosen the fuel line on the forth cylinder from the front it does not make much of a difference (or spray as much diesel as the others) to the really, really bad idle which happened with the first 3 cylinders so I would start with figurering out why that is.
Again, the starting and idle is not even close to what it should be and if you've fixed the wiring, the control electronics is ok and no leaks I would look closer at the injection pump.
 

Perry8007

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Ok, I think for now forget about the SC. Looking at the video again it seems when you loosen the fuel line on the forth cylinder from the front it does not make much of a difference (or spray as much diesel as the others) to the really, really bad idle which happened with the first 3 cylinders so I would start with figurering out why that is.
Again, the starting and idle is not even close to what it should be and if you've fixed the wiring, the control electronics is ok and no leaks I would look closer at the injection pump.
Yep I think the same thing but the guys at diesel services say if I send to them again they will smack with a hammer
Been sent there twice now they can’t fault it if’s doing everything it should be doing
Have rechecked flywheel sensor it’s clean as and flywheel clean also
Think I might pull the front covers off and check timing marks
I’m just lost
Cheers
 

Perry8007

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Does your engine have a separate EDC power supply , the early 44s did .
They did away with it on the 300 and fitted a DC DC convertor to keep the edc voltage stable on start up.
Your issue sounds like a wiring problem .
In the area forward of the starter you will see a plastic block , this is the pos and neg edc feed , this must be direct to the start battery in order to maintain as much voltage as possible .
I have seen builders loop the feeds to the starter , yes I know builders don’t understand , they just make the installation as easy as possible .
I have before had to re wire some boats ( builder to remain anonymous) American .
Looks at your u tube vid on starting it sounds like you have good start voltage , if all is good 44s start fairly well.
As I’ve said before if the crank sensor doesn’t give its inductive pick up signal it won’t allow the alpha solenoid to open to allow fuel to the cam head inside the injection pump.
You WONT get a fault code , I know this from experience on a Targa 34 some years back.
The loom was green , the bellows had split allowing water into the flywheel housing which in turn rusted the flywheel , the flywheel must be clean and swarf fee to make the signal .
Take out the sensor , clean the flywheel and the sensor , it will only give a fault code when you unplug it.
Off you go.
Hi have taken pic of flywheel it’s clean
Will try to load another video
Cheers
 

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Perry8007

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Hi have rechecked starter motor wires all seam fine
Have removed flywheel sensor and checked flywheel all clean and dry
Have checked fuel lines can blow back to tank
Have put up another video on utube
Blackmail kad44
1.42 minutes
Is it worth pulling of front covers to check timing marks
Cheers
 

Perry8007

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Hi have rechecked starter motor wires all seam fine
Have removed flywheel sensor and checked flywheel all clean and dry
Have checked fuel lines can blow back to tank
Have put up another video on utube
Blackmail kad44
1.42 minutes 1.11 minutes
Is it worth pulling of front covers to check timing marks
Cheers
 

Croftie

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Not familiar with this engine but what triggers the flywheel sensor, from the pic its not the ring gear, You said the engine has been rebuilt could they have bolted the flywheel in the incorrect position and its confusing the electronics.
 

Perry8007

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Not familiar with this engine but what triggers the flywheel sensor, from the pic its not the ring gear, You said the engine has been rebuilt could they have bolted the flywheel in the incorrect position and its confusing the electronics.
Hi flywheel sensor works off a magnit field and there’s a hole in the flywheel to break the signal
The flywheel is pinned
Cheers
 

Croftie

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Hi flywheel sensor works off a magnit field and there’s a hole in the flywheel to break the signal
The flywheel is pinned
Cheers
Yes I assumed that was the system but didnt know if the flywheel was pinned or could be assembled wrong.
 

A_8

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Yep I think the same thing but the guys at diesel services say if I send to them again they will smack with a hammer
Been sent there twice now they can’t fault it if’s doing everything it should be doing
Have rechecked flywheel sensor it’s clean as and flywheel clean also
Think I might pull the front covers off and check timing marks
I’m just lost
Cheers
Ok, just read your first post and I think if as you say the engine starts faster when warm the fuel system does not maintain pressure which means there is some sort of leak which will in turn explain the slow start, dodgy idle, lack of power and rpm's. I don't know the details of the fuel pump, injector pump and injectors but if there are no obvious leaks there should be one or more return valve type functions in the system that could be compromised.
 

[2068]

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Who rebuilt the engine?
I don't understand why you are trying to fix things yourself if another company did the original work on it.
Also, what "Pump was replaced" ?
 

petem

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Who rebuilt the engine?
I don't understand why you are trying to fix things yourself if another company did the original work on it.
Also, what "Pump was replaced" ?
Remember he's out in New Zealand.

So....

Injection pump has been tested (twice)
Lift pump has been checked
Injectors have been checked
Fuel lines have been checked
Fuel is good
Fuel filters have been
ECU is good
Wiring has been replaced with new

When you said you've got no error codes has someone actually plugged a Vodia in?
When you said the Injector Pump has been checked, did they set it to the Volvo Specs (not the Bosch ones)?
 

Portofino

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Remember he's out in New Zealand.

So....

Injection pump has been tested (twice)
Lift pump has been checked
Injectors have been checked
Fuel lines have been checked
Fuel is good
Fuel filters have been
ECU is good
Wiring has been replaced with new

When you said you've got no error codes has someone actually plugged a Vodia in?
When you said the Injector Pump has been checked, did they set it to the Volvo Specs (not the Bosch ones)?
Post #52 does not state “ new “ harness .
Just replaced .As said it’s some sort of electrical issue .Agree needs a deep vodia interrogation before any meaningful further advice .
 

Perry8007

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Hi
Remember he's out in New Zealand.

So....

Injection pump has been tested (twice)
Lift pump has been checked
Injectors have been checked
Fuel lines have been checked
Fuel is good
Fuel filters have been
ECU is good
Wiring has been replaced with new

When you said you've got no error codes has someone actually plugged a Vodia in?
When you said the Injector Pump has been checked, did they set it to the Volvo Specs (not the Bosch ones)?
hi there injected pump has been sent to a diesel pump shop it meets all the specs for a kad44 260hp pump
Was a second hand loom but did the same thing
Still trying to get the voda tool to put on her
Filters new have tried another ecu same thing
Going to pull front covers off and check timing marks
Cheers perry
Who rebuilt the engine?
I don't understand why you are trying to fix things yourself if another company did the original work on it.
Also, what "Pump was replaced" ?
Who rebuilt the engine?
I don't understand why you are trying to fix things yourself if another company did the original work on it.
Also, what "Pump was replaced" ?
Hi took It back to them to try and sort out but sat there for 10 months picked it up and bought it home I think he got sick of it
Now we have the problem
cheers perry
 

joae

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Looked at the videos and my suggestion is definetly that this is fuel injection related, either the EDC control (electrical connection but you have checked these) or pump (feed) related.
My suggestion, and you may correct if wrong, would be to check the return from the injector pump with a clear hose to verify that you do not have an airbubbles in the fuel issue.
Also on the suction side of the lift pump I would connect a short hose to a tank with fresh diesel. From what I read in previous post you have just bypassed the filters? I would suggest NOT to bypass the filters as this could be very bad for the injector pump.
 
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petem

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Hi
I have a kad44 that’s been rebuilt have put motor back in boat but will only rev to 1200 rpm
Have put a new pump on her and had injectors serviced
Turbo been rebuilt
Boat is a 8mt white pointer trailer boat
Have tried another ecu still the same
Have cleaned all plugs
has new belts on it
Supercharger is coming on
Have calibrated the throttle
There are no faults cords coming up at all
The first start when cold takes about 1 minute to start then starts good when warm
When you push neutral button for fast run still only 1200 should be 1500 I think
You can push throttle into forward it goes into gear still will only rev to 1200
Have checked o rings on turbo tube all good
Would love some help
Thanks perry
Any news Perry?
 

petem

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Ok, I think for now forget about the SC. Looking at the video again it seems when you loosen the fuel line on the forth cylinder from the front it does not make much of a difference (or spray as much diesel as the others) to the really, really bad idle which happened with the first 3 cylinders so I would start with figurering out why that is.
Again, the starting and idle is not even close to what it should be and if you've fixed the wiring, the control electronics is ok and no leaks I would look closer at the injection pump.
Perry?
 

Gary8848

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Hi
I have a kad44 that’s been rebuilt have put motor back in boat but will only rev to 1200 rpm
Have put a new pump on her and had injectors serviced
Turbo been rebuilt
Boat is a 8mt white pointer trailer boat
Have tried another ecu still the same
Have cleaned all plugs
has new belts on it
Supercharger is coming on
Have calibrated the throttle
There are no faults cords coming up at all
The first start when cold takes about 1 minute to start then starts good when warm
When you push neutral button for fast run still only 1200 should be 1500 I think
You can push throttle into forward it goes into gear still will only rev to 1200
Have checked o rings on turbo tube all good
Would love some help
Thanks perry
Hi there have you got to bottom of problem yet.
I have had sim faults with 300 . Had loads of issues but none brought any faults up.
apart from me having other faults one of the main ones was that the engine would-not rev. But it got less and less. Not sure if kad 44 have this part.
on the top of the inlet manifold a sensor. A air flow temp sensor. I changed that and job sorted. But I had 2 engines so could swap parts.
There is a part on the fuel pump that fails. I know how to check it, but if pump been serviced they will surely have checked this.
gary
 

volvopaul

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Hi
I have a kad44 that’s been rebuilt have put motor back in boat but will only rev to 1200 rpm
Have put a new pump on her and had injectors serviced
Turbo been rebuilt
Boat is a 8mt white pointer trailer boat
Have tried another ecu still the same
Have cleaned all plugs
has new belts on it
Supercharger is coming on
Have calibrated the throttle
There are no faults cords coming up at all
The first start when cold takes about 1 minute to start then starts good when warm
When you push neutral button for fast run still only 1200 should be 1500 I think
You can push throttle into forward it goes into gear still will only rev to 1200
Have checked o rings on turbo tube all good
Would love some help
Thanks perry
Remove the sea water pump and run it up for a short time . If it improves the situation let me know and I will explain the reason it’s improved.
 
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