Volvo penta d4 stalling

[julians]

Hi all,

I have an odd problem with my vp d4 260,hoping somone can shed some light on the cause.

The engine will start as normal and run fine for as long as required,no error code thrown ,it all seems fine.

If i switch the engine off while at anchor,when i restart it a few hours later it starts up just fine, but then a few second later it just stalls.

When i attempt to restart it starts up fine and then runs fine until you stop it and leave it for a few hours when it will repeat the above.

If you stop it and leave it overnight, the next day it will start fine and stay running without stalling.

So to summarise:-

Start it after an overnight stop, it starts and runs fine.

Start it after stopping for a few hours (3-4 hours), it starts fine,but stalls a few seconds later,but will restart fine.

I suspect an air leak most probably at the fuel filter on the engine,but cant work out why its fine if left overnight,but not fine if left a few hours.

Ive tried tightening the fuel filter by hand (not using a strap wrench as the manual says not to) but that doesnt appear tool have fixed it.

Any ideas?

 

[jrudge]

Fuel leak. There are plently of fuel unions between the tank and engines not just the filter

 

[volvopaul]

Hi all,

I have an odd problem with my vp d4 260,hoping somone can shed some light on the cause.

The engine will start as normal and run fine for as long as required,no error code thrown ,it all seems fine.

If i switch the engine off while at anchor,when i restart it a few hours later it starts up just fine, but then a few second later it just stalls.

When i attempt to restart it starts up fine and then runs fine until you stop it and leave it for a few hours when it will repeat the above.

If you stop it and leave it overnight, the next day it will start fine and stay running without stalling.

So to summarise:-

Start it after an overnight stop, it starts and runs fine.

Start it after stopping for a few hours (3-4 hours), it starts fine,but stalls a few seconds later,but will restart fine.

I suspect an air leak most probably at the fuel filter on the engine,but cant work out why its fine if left overnight,but not fine if left a few hours.

Ive tried tightening the fuel filter by hand (not using a strap wrench as the manual says not to) but that doesnt appear tool have fixed it.

Any ideas?

Check the fuel cooler , they leak externally which means it can also suck air in.
The primer button is my favourite hunch’s.

 

[julians]

Check the fuel cooler , they leak externally which means it can also suck air in.
The primer button is my favourite hunch’s.

Ill go over it all tomorrow, couldnt see any obvious leaks when i had a glance over it today though.

The fuel primer plunger appears visually ok though,no obvious leaks there.

 

[julians]

Ive had a close look over the fuel pipe run from tank through to the injectors and i cant see any obvious signs of a leak at any of the joins. All looks dry and clean to me.

So ive taken the engine mounted fuel filter off, oiled the seal and refitted it, will see if this makes any difference. The reason i suspect the fuel filter is that last year i had no such issues but this year ie only since the engine was serviced (not by me) am i having this problem, and the only thing that is changed on the fuel side of things during a service is the spin on fuel filter.

The spin on filter is particularly difficult to get a proper grip on in order to tighten up , due to the close proximity of the fuel feed in line and the oil dipstick.

Ill know tomorrow if its fixed it.

 

[Andyroonot]

What age is the engine? There was a change of part number on the fuel return pipe fitting from the pump to the tank, which now incorporates a check-valve. There was an issue on hot engines causing the exact symptoms you’ve described; I can’t remember the exact wording, but it was something to do with the heat of the engine causing expansion around the pump &the fuel being replaced with air? Hence the engine has enough fuel to start but then sucks the air though and stalls...

May well be the issue, but does depend on the age of the engine, as obviously the new p/n was incorporated into the build spec. of new engines.

If you can p/m me a pic of the fuel return I’ll confirm if it’s the old or new version of return fitting if you’d like? It’s on the rear port side of the engine underneath the charge air cooler, and will have a rubber fuel hose jubilee clipped to it

 

[julians]

Andy, its a 2006 engine. Ill get a photo of the part tomorrow.

Which part am i looking for on the diagram below

https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7746200-23-6593.aspx


Thanks for the info

 

[julians]

So, just to close this one off, I finally got round to fitting the part suggested by andyrootnot above, and it has indeed cured the stalling behaviour that I've been experiencing for the last couple of years.

Thanks Andy!

 

[Ville_V]

Hello,

Found this thread and registered to the forum. I have a twin Volvo Penta D4-260A-B setup in my boat. EVC model B. Year model also 2006 with 715 hours on the clock. The boat is a Targa 31 mkII. The boat is located in Finland.

This year I've experienced now twice the exact same problem with my port side engine. When cold the engine starts fine, no problems. But twice now after the engine has been driven warm, shut down and let stay for an hour or two if starts normally, runs for few seconds normally and shut's down. No error lights, nothing. Just a clean shut down like from the key. After it shuts down it requires from 3 to 5 long starts after it fires up again. After it starts again it runs just fine. It really feels like it get's some air from somewhere. No visible leaks or diesel smell in the engine room.

So almost identical as julians problem. Mine doesn't do it everytime when hot but when it does it requires few starts to get it running again.

Could you julians or Andyroonot give more info which part / parts were changed to solve this issue?

 

[julians]

There is an updated version of component number 4 (fuel return connection) on this diagram : Volvo Penta Exploded view / schematic Fuel System D4-180I-B, D4-210A-A, D4-210A-B, D4-210I-A, D4-210I-B, D4-225A-B, D4-225I-B, D4-260A-A, D4-260A-B, D4-260D-B, D4-260I-A, D4-260I-B - MarinePartsEurope.com .

I fitted this and it fixed my problem.

 

[Ville_V]

Thank you julians for a fast reply.

With what part number did you order the new updated version? Is this number 4. Return connection with part number 21822234 the new updated part? Or is it with a different part number? Just to make sure I order the correct one.

Would you happen to have a picture of the old and new? And the old and new part numbers? Just so I could identify which one I have. My engine is the same age as yours so most propably I have the old one. Do you know when the part was updated?

Did you notice what is the difference with the old and new part?

 

[julians]

Thank you julians for a fast reply.

With what part number did you order the new updated version? Is this number 4. Return connection with part number 21822234 the new updated part? Or is it with a different part number? Just to make sure I order the correct one.

Would you happen to have a picture of the old and new? And the old and new part numbers? Just so I could identify which one I have. My engine is the same age as yours so most propably I have the old one. Do you know when the part was updated?

Did you notice what is the difference with the old and new part?

yes the part number for the updated part is 21822234, visually it looks similar to the previous part but it contains a check valve that stops fuel escaping when its not supposed to. The old part has a longer hex section on the end than the new version.

I have an extract from the volvo penta service bulletin that I can email to you along with photos of the old and new part if you pm me your email address.

 

[lesconnor]

Hi Julians - thanks for this information. We operate a vessel with twin d4-225, they were installed in approximately 2012. One of them exhibits this exact behaviour. We think we have it narrowed down to either a primer suction leak, or this part you speak of. Would you be able to provide the VP bulletin number and we can forward it to the local authorized VP service (who have precious little experience with these engines, as we’re on the Canadian prairie).

thank you.

 

[julians]

Hi Julians - thanks for this information. We operate a vessel with twin d4-225, they were installed in approximately 2012. One of them exhibits this exact behaviour. We think we have it narrowed down to either a primer suction leak, or this part you speak of. Would you be able to provide the VP bulletin number and we can forward it to the local authorized VP service (who have precious little experience with these engines, as we’re on the Canadian prairie).

thank you.

Hi, I don't have the full service bulletin,so I don't know the number ,I just have a screen shot of an excerpt from it. I can forward it to you if you let me know your email address.

 

[lesconnor]

That would be fantastic, thanks - lescconnor@gmail.com.

 

[julians]

That would be fantastic, thanks - lescconnor@gmail.com.

Done,should be in your inbox

 

[lesconnor]

Many thanks, Julian. I’ll report back after we’ve had a chance to look into this.

 

[Portofino]

There was something identical on the FB MAN forum .It turned out to be faulty batch of Bosch injector pump seal(s) .
Took a while under warranty.Moved from the local tech guys after they replaced the fuel return pipes , the one way valve s in that circuit , the prima ( did not fix it ) and finally the whole diesel pump .About 30 hrs of warranty work + parts . Factory techs finally nailed it from Germany .They were interested as the local techs had followeed the “ book “ and no resolution.Still under warranty you see .

Symptom’s as in post #9 ….long cranking when warm ie after a few hrs at anchor .Ok when cold first thing .

They knew the rack pressure was holding , place sensors on every pipe inc the returns , checked the return one way valves , They even jury rigged a separate tank after swopping tanks thinking somehow it was siphoning back defeating the return valves .Removed the valves etc etc .
Finally traced it to the pump itself , a o ring on a shaft or something was not quite sealing , when it was hot and the metal body expanded with heat soak after shut down and temporarily meant a few extra secs cranking before fire ing = new pump .

Just one engine so they had a normal one for a control when swopping things over .

As said its the return valves and pipes which hopefully are your problem not the whole pump .

 

[simonfraser]

would and old fashioned diesel have the same issue ?
or not so many sensors so it would just start and chug on ?

 

[Portofino]

would and old fashioned diesel have the same issue ?
or not so many sensors so it would just start and chug on ?

Yes this is / was a CR issue .Common Rail .It’s self bleeding in the extended cranking .They do eventually get going .

Thing is from around early noughties they all are CR .
How ever there is merit or more merit on seeking an older boat say pre 2003/5 when CR was phased in .

Theres a Mangusta 130 , must be 10-15 y old berthed next to “ Touch me “ a new Pershing 140 .
Huge vol difference ,and huge difference of movable fold down flaps and beach club malarkey etc etc ,
But you know what the classically styled simple lines of the 130 looks soooo much better than the trendy P140 .
A pristine M130 is circa €8 M , a new ( only 5 delivered thus far ) P140 nearer €28 M + ? Your extra spec ing

You could do an awful lot with the €20 M difference……..and in 5 y time still love the M130 s shape not fall out of love with it , I suspect with the radical P 140 .

New is not always best it’s just NEW thats all .
But we are conditioned from early on with the rest of consumer products to assume the new is better.It’s not always so with boats ,Boats break that mantra .