Trailer paint recommendations

Avocet

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I have a big, old and very rusty trailer that I'm rebuilding. It's not a boat trailer, but I suppose it could carry a small boat! It's entirely open section steel (angle and channel only) so I don't have to worry about internal cavities. At present it's almost entirely back to bare (but rusty) metal. Bashing it with a big hammer gets the big loose flakes off but there is, of course, some powdery surface rust under that. Any recommendations for paint? Hammerite? POR 15? Something with some zinc in it followed by something else? All suggestions gratefully received!
 

VicS

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Before painting it get rid of all the rust. Blasting is the ideal way.

Otherwise chip, scrape, wire brush and use a chemical rust remover or converter.


My trailer is painted with Hammerite, but IIRC on top of an iron oxide primer. No great love of the stuff... our paint lab at work tested it once and pretty well rubbished it.

Since Nigel was in short trousers (and the paint labs tests) the formulation of Hammerite has changed a couple of times at least, and it seems not for the better.
 

Gordonmc

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Bash off any loose flaking rust with a slag hammer, then give it two coats of Zinga:
http://www.zinga-uk.com/
Then cover with a paint of choice. I would not bother with Hammerite which is not the same since the brand was sold off by Finnigans.
The instructions for Zinga say don't apply to clean metal... it likes a thin coat of rust.
 
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sailorman

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I have a big, old and very rusty trailer that I'm rebuilding. It's not a boat trailer, but I suppose it could carry a small boat! It's entirely open section steel (angle and channel only) so I don't have to worry about internal cavities. At present it's almost entirely back to bare (but rusty) metal. Bashing it with a big hammer gets the big loose flakes off but there is, of course, some powdery surface rust under that. Any recommendations for paint? Hammerite? POR 15? Something with some zinc in it followed by something else? All suggestions gratefully received!

Our old boatyard owner painted everything & i mean everything with grey danboline, he swore by it
 

Avocet

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Bash off any loose flaking rust with a slag hammer, then give it two coats of Zinga:
http://www.zinga-uk.com/
Then cover with a paint of choice. I would not bother with Hammerite which is not the same since the brand was sold off by Finnigans.
The instructions for Zinga say don't apply to clean metal... it likes a thin coat of rust.

That Zinga looks the business! That said, the application guide seems to make a big deal of having the substrate "completely" free of rust. Bashing off the loose stuff and attacking with a wire brush is something I can do, but I won't be able to get all the rust off. Does that matter too much?
 

Lakesailor

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That Zinga looks the business! That said, the application guide seems to make a big deal of having the substrate "completely" free of rust. Bashing off the loose stuff and attacking with a wire brush is something I can do, but I won't be able to get all the rust off. Does that matter too much?
The video shows them shot-blasting. Possibly not much good for the home DIYer.

That Vactan looks good.
 

William_H

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My recommendation is for lots of old engine oil splashed in the corners especially and coat it often. For paint however I use a fishoil type paint made for galvanised steel. good luck olewill
 

tr7v8

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I used to use Hammerite a lot, but it chips badly. I've now started to use Rustoleum which is miles better.
 

seanfoster

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I recently built a trailer for a 26ft yacht from scratch and as I had spent a lot of time, effort and money on it decided to get it galvanised.
I thought it would be pricey but went to an industrial galvanizers in sheffield (there's bound to be some near to you) and they did the whole lot (degrease, drilled any breather holes required and dipped) for only £100 +vat.

Might be a job to get it there in your case and would need it shotblasting first, but thought I'd give you another option!

Pic below before and after:
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Since Nigel was in short trousers (and the paint labs tests) the formulation of Hammerite has changed a couple of times at least, and it seems not for the better.

How old do you think I am? :)

Rust-oleum looks like good stuff: "Harmful if inhaled. May affect the brain or nervous system causing dizziness, headache or nausea. Harmful if swallowed. Causes eye irritation. Vapors irritating to eyes and respiratory tract. Combustible liquid and vapor.".

Proper paint, not for cissies!

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProductFinder.asp?pfm=RST&bsq=2&bid=6
 

Avocet

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Thanks all. Excellent looking trailer Sean!

Well, although I'd like to get it galvanised, that's just too much hassle / money at the moment. I liked the idea of that Zinga, but realistically, I know there will be little chance of me getting the surface that good and blasting would be pretty tricky to do well because of the shape. I've gone for some Rust-oleum because it seemed to be the most tolerant of an existing rusty surface and was pretty cheap, so I'll see how it goes. Must admit I'm a bit worried about theft, but I have a hitch lock and the drop sides are original (and look pretty rough), so that might be a sufficient deterrent.
 

lw395

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I think I would either spend the time getting it rust free, with blasting and some sort of phosphoric treatment, then carefully prime it etc etc, or just whack a bit of zinc based primer and a coat of gloss on.
A quick job to slow the rust down is better than nothin, but don't expect too much.
 

Thistle

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As with almost all paint jobs, the time the finish will last is a direct function of the time, effort and care spent on the preparation stage. Skimp on that and you can look forward to re-doing the job sooner rather than later.
 

SHUG

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As with almost all paint jobs, the time the finish will last is a direct function of the time, effort and care spent on the preparation stage. Skimp on that and you can look forward to re-doing the job sooner rather than later.

Wise words!!!!
 
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