ST1000 tiller pilot will not stay in 'Auto'

krishna_the_griffon

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Hi there

I have a brand new raymarineST1000+ tiller pilot and have used it a couple of times successfully. On the water yesterday I had this problem.

I power on my St1000 and it completes the power up routine as normal. I set the desired course and the press the 'auto' button. The unit displays the compass bearing preceeded with an 'A' as described in the manual, but for only for a second or two. The unit then appears to reset by that I mean it beeps, displays 1000 on the screen and then reverts to standby mode, displaying the bearing preceeded with a 'C'.

Recalibrating the device and then repeating the steps above results in the same problem. I have not introduced any metal or magnetic objects in to its working area.

Has anyone had a similar issue? Video of my raymarine st1000 resetting
 

Buck Turgidson

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I had this problem on a board I was using for a project. It resets as soon as there is a drive signal either way. In my case it was not due to inadequate power/voltage drop as I was driving milliamps. If it is under guarantee send it back.
 

Alex_Blackwood

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Hi there

I have a brand new raymarineST1000+ tiller pilot and have used it a couple of times successfully. On the water yesterday I had this problem.

I power on my St1000 and it completes the power up routine as normal. I set the desired course and the press the 'auto' button. The unit displays the compass bearing preceeded with an 'A' as described in the manual, but for only for a second or two. The unit then appears to reset by that I mean it beeps, displays 1000 on the screen and then reverts to standby mode, displaying the bearing preceeded with a 'C'.

Recalibrating the device and then repeating the steps above results in the same problem. I have not introduced any metal or magnetic objects in to its working area.

Has anyone had a similar issue? Video of my raymarine st1000 resetting
New unit, under warranty, do not try to open or do repair in any way. Check with a good proven supply, Try and measure the unit input voltage in different modes. If power supplies are proven good, then return it.
 

RupertW

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I agree on power supply and poor contacts as most likely. Voltage all good when it’s not drawing power but as soon as it is then the poor contact can’t sustain it. The two things I’ve found are corrosion on the holes in tbe socket (I used a paperclip to clean) and once the wiring behind the socket.
 

bluerm166

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Agree as to the cause.I had a new unit with the 5 pin plug and socket which corroded badly and was impossible to access for a good clean .It looked like a Bulgin unit but was clearly not.I replaced it with a proper Bulgin with two pins as I don't use the data connection.The two pin model has larger diameter pins and sockets so is easy to inspect as necessary and of course does not rust.I have employed a split pin with clearance fit to clean these sockets in the past.The sharp ends can be sprung against the sides and are very effective.
 

krishna_the_griffon

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Thanks to all for your replies, there is some slight corrosion on the plug pins. I re-used the power lines that were in place for the previous autohelm unit, but will run some new lines back to the battery as suggested clean the pins and see what happens.

The supplied raymarine socket does seem to be pretty poor, the dust/moisture cover and plug socket is certainly not as good as the old autohelm unit.
 

Buck Turgidson

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I would clip it directly to your battery to test it before you rip any wires out. As I said earlier, although the advice is sound it wasn't the reason mine failed.
 
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