self steering gear

helixkimara

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Yes, I'm using a SP2 Hasler. Well I will be when I fit it to my boat. (28ft. Twister). I need to add some "sticky out bits" to the stern as its too close to the rudder.
 

FAITIRA

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I had one on a Rival 32, it didn,t have enough power, particularly, if reaching in gusty conditions, if she came up, it just didn,t have the 'chuff' to bring her back off, maybe ok with a smaller boat. Good Luck, Bill.

Edit, it did take me to the Med and back!
 

edgiee

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Hi,
Thanks for the posts. I've fitted one to my boat (Shipman 28) but haven't yet tried it out. I'm still working out where all the bits of string go and which ones do what. Everything looks in good order (plus I had a new pendulum oar made - out of cedar - didn't know if that was the right wood but the old one looked similar in grain, etc) but I won't know until she's in the water. I got the pdf's from the Kingfisher (?) site and they were helpful, but was just wondering if anyone has any tips.
Thanks Keith
 

FAITIRA

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[ QUOTE ]
Hi,
Thanks for the posts. I've fitted one to my boat (Shipman 28) but haven't yet tried it out. I'm still working out where all the bits of string go and which ones do what. Everything looks in good order (plus I had a new pendulum oar made - out of cedar - didn't know if that was the right wood but the old one looked similar in grain, etc) but I won't know until she's in the water. I got the pdf's from the Kingfisher (?) site and they were helpful, but was just wondering if anyone has any tips.
Thanks Keith

[/ QUOTE ]
Don,t be mean with the blocks Kieth, decent dia sheaves and minimise the number of them as far as poss to cut down on friction, oh and good non stretch lines. I had a couple of cam cleats on the tiller for adjusting. Bill.
 

edgiee

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Bill, Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated. Apart from the lines and blocks, the only bits I need to find are 1) a retaining pin for the pendulum oar (where it locks into the (kind of) 'shoe') - is there an off-the-shelf one I should look for ? 2) whatever needs to be screwed onto the tiller for a connection for the steering lines.
Thanks again.
Cheers
Keith
 

FAITIRA

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I had cam cleats on the tiller.
There will probably be an optimum distance from the rudder stock to the cleats, to optimise the available movement, but considering the leverage, i.e. further away from the stock, lighter load, but less rudder movement, it,s a compromise situation. Can,t offer any help with the pin, it,s a while since I had mine. Bill.
ps. there may be a case for two sets of cleats, one for heavy winds, one for light?
 

barnaclephill

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[ QUOTE ]
2) whatever needs to be screwed onto the tiller for a connection for the steering lines.

[/ QUOTE ]

On mine I drilled and epoxied a st. steel bolt & nyloc through the tiller, protruding about 15 mm on the top. On that goes a small galvanised chain, so it's adjustable incrementally. The chain is about 50cm in total, centred, one side is tied to the tiller line, the other has a small fiddle block (??? 30mm block with v-jam) for tensioning.
The line I use is 6mm non-stretch stuff from the chandler, breaking strain greater than my weight so no probs, the chain has never worn through. The chain is excellent for a quick disconnect, and for small adjustments. Just another quality idea someone smarter than me discovered.

PS my tiller lines intersect the tiller at about a 45 degree angle. It might have been in the instructions (Norvane, www.selfsteering.com) or dictated by the stanchion/pushpit configuration.
 

andlauer

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Bonjour
I have no direct experience.... yet.
I've seen one foot of a genoa rail fixed longitudinally to the tiller to adjust the position of the traction point that is fixed to the rail carriage. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
You need :
- more trenght (heavy wind) move forward,
- more sensibility move backward.
Eric /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
 

FAITIRA

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[ QUOTE ]
Bonjour
I have no direct experience.... yet.
I've seen one foot of a genoa rail fixed longitudinally to the tiller to adjust the position of the traction point that is fixed to the rail carriage. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
You need :
- more trenght (heavy wind) move forward,
- more sensibility move backward.
Eric /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Clever idea. Bill.
 

FAITIRA

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I have a hydrovane, it,s easy, turn the vane, put the same bias on the wheel, the other way, attend to the sheets, trim everything when she has gone round. Guess it,s more complicated with a Aeries or similar, no string on the Hydrovane. Bill.
 

helixkimara

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Good Kingfisher web site and great photo's. On Osprey is the vane larger than normal as it seems a bit bigger than mine ?
Did you find that a smaller one was inadequate.

Plenty room for smutty comments from some of our members I know !
 

[10753]

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The Vane and gear is standard. The only difference is the vane is higher. This helps with a more consistent airflow to the vane plus the vane can rotate clear of the pushpit.

As the rudder post comes through the aft cabin I have also added a 'mini' tiller so access in and out of the cabin is maintained without being crushed by the vane gear pulling the tiller at the wrong moment.

Thankyou for your comments about the web site.

Rgrds
 
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