MedMilo
Member
Yep, I’m starting to come to that conclusion too, especially if I want more than one camera. Thanks for this input, all makes sense.That is exactly why in the long term the best option for most people is to install a good quality fully-functioning router which can connect your on-boat LAN (Local Area Network) to the outside world (the WAN or Wide Area Network) using the cell service ("4G"). Your monthly cost is then a single SIM for the router. The cameras don't need their own SIMs. You then use cameras which connect to the outside world via the router, either by WiFi or ethernet hard-wiring. The router also becomes your WiFi hub on the boat, to which all on-board devices connect when they are using WiFi, including VOIP services like Whatsapp phone calls for example.
The SIM chosen for the router should be the one which will give you the most cost-effective service for your needs both when on the boat and when interrogating systems remotely (cameras at first, but you'll probably want others eventually).
Many good quality routers have dual SIM slots so that you can pop in a second SIM if you cruise to somewhere that your principal SIM won't work.
I use a Teltonika RUT950 and like it very much.
In some places the cost of cell services is very high. If your boat is staying in the same place you might want to connect the router to the WAN by a WiFi bridge, either to marina WiFi (unlikely in my view) or a local business within range which will charge a reasonable price for the connection. Routers like ours offer the ability to connect either way, and can be set up so that either SIM 1 or SIM 2 (4G) or the WiFi bridge is the principal connection, with automatic fail-over to the backup.
If you go down this route you must choose a router which will run off the boat's batteries (ie: 12V or 24V DC) so that it doesn't die if shore power is lost, thus isolating you from the cameras at a time when you want them. If you isolate your boat's batteries when leaving the boat you need to install some sort of Uninterruptible Power Supply for the router. The simplest way is a 12V DC instrument battery with a trickle charge (this can also help to protect your instruments from voltage surges or drops).
This has all been covered in other threads, particularly in Practical Boat Owner, so I am not saying anything new or clever. But I am a firm believer that in a world where many boat owners will want security cameras, and will also be using their boats for work to some extent, the right way forward is to install a really good router and hang everything off that. It sounds complicated but in fact what you are doing is setting up the boat just like a house or office. For us the move between house and boat is utterly seamless so far as device use is concerned, we see no differences whatsoever whether we are working at home or on the boat.View attachment 124120
Credit to MatthewRiches of this forum for setting the system up AND helping me understand how it works