Safety harness

2nd_apprentice

Well-known member
Joined
18 Mar 2007
Messages
2,480
Location
Berlin
Visit site
Since we all agree that going overbord is a no-no and wearing some kind of harness a must, I'd like to know what you use.
I have one of these Secumar (well, to be honest a cheaper copy) lifejacket harness combinations but frankly I don't trust it.
Some seem to fancy climber's equipment (Pezel) or industrial harnesses but methinks that might be more suitable for mast inspections.
 

barnaclephill

New member
Joined
6 Nov 2006
Messages
252
Visit site
I made my own from the 2 inch webbing sold in the chandlery. After seeing the prices of the commercial ones, it was far better. Also I had the choice of plastic clip-buckles or the slotted metal things. 2 rings on the chest, to be joined by the safety spring hook on the tether.
 

andlauer

New member
Joined
15 Mar 2007
Messages
310
Location
Paris France
Visit site
Bonjour
I think we already had a thread on the subject.
I use the Spinnlock harness without the inflatable life jacket.
It is very expensive but still a good price/quality choice (easy to put and confortable).
I had it fitted almost all the time (above 5 kts of wind) day and night during the JC06 and the return.
Under 5kts of wind I used the Cotten oilie trouser with a safety belt incorporated at chest level.(very good also)
Eric
 

andlauer

New member
Joined
15 Mar 2007
Messages
310
Location
Paris France
Visit site
Bonjour
The Spinnlock harness is designed by Peltz.
Mountain harness are not suitable for safety harness.
I have also one but only to climb the mast.
The safety harness should pull from the chest (single handed) or the back (better with crew).
The mountain harness are fitted too low, You would be dragged up side down at best.
Eric
 
G

Guest

Guest
[ QUOTE ]
I made my own from the 2 inch webbing sold in the chandlery. After seeing the prices of the commercial ones, it was far better. Also I had the choice of plastic clip-buckles or the slotted metal things. 2 rings on the chest, to be joined by the safety spring hook on the tether.

[/ QUOTE ]

Other sources of 2 inch webbing are: seatbelts from scrap cars (usually free), and full length (9 metre) cargo straps which can be sourced from boot sales for around a fiver. Lop off the last 10 feet or so with a red-hot knife blade, and you'll still have a long useable strap.
For joins/overlaps, I use a lick of thin epoxy glue between the layers, then make a series of stitch holes by pushing a red-hot needle through. Finally, stitch with double thread & needles as done by saddle-makers/ shoe-makers (dunno what that technique is called) and then leave for the glue to set.

If you're lucky, rigger's full-body harnesses can sometimes be found at boot-sales for very little money, as they're condemned by H&S if they suffer the slightest abrasion or pass their expiry date.

Colin
 

2nd_apprentice

Well-known member
Joined
18 Mar 2007
Messages
2,480
Location
Berlin
Visit site
Do you use any padding on your DIY harnesses?
There might be a caveat to using a metal ring (though that also applies to commercial kits): Wilfried Erdman reports that he broke one or two ribs that way on his second non stop circumnavigation.
 
G

Guest

Guest
[ QUOTE ]
Do you use any padding on your DIY harnesses?


[/ QUOTE ]
Only indirectly - when worn over your clothes. Should then be a similar scenario to that of being arrested by car seat-belts or full rigger's harnesses.
But then - haven't tested one 'for real' yet ....
 

graham

Well-known member
Joined
16 May 2001
Messages
8,084
Visit site
[ QUOTE ]
Thanks Eric, I couldn't find earlier posts on the subject. Perhaps they get deleted after a while?


[/ QUOTE ]

If you go to the list of posts on whichever forum you are looking at scroll to the bottom and you should see the word "SHOW" next to it is a drop down box type thing,from there you can select how far back you want posts still visible.

I dont do ocean sailing but lots of singlehanding.I often use a harness but worry about getting back on board.I am just now changing my bottom guard wires to strong cord. This couild be cut easilly (provided you have a knife in your pocket) then release the harness and squirm under the top wire.

I have a ladder at the stern but worry about letting go on the way to it /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

In some ways the boat would be safer with no guard wires at all if you are concientious about clipping on.You could then get back on without releasing your harness.

Im sure someone will say make the harness strop short and have the jackstay along the centerline.so you cant go over the side.I think thats a fine idea but very restrictive on your movement on deck.
 

barnaclephill

New member
Joined
6 Nov 2006
Messages
252
Visit site
[ QUOTE ]

Im sure someone will say make the harness strop short and have the jackstay along the centerline.so you cant go over the side.I think thats a fine idea but very restrictive on your movement on deck.

[/ QUOTE ]

It is an idea to have 2 tethers, one long & one short. The short one is for when reefing/dousing the main (from the central jackline), the longer is to stay clipped on when going to the foredeck or cooking in the galley.

My jackstay(s) go from the side of the hatch, through the base of the mast and thence to the forward bollard. A long tether reaches from there to the side decks if I go that way, but usually I climb over the cabin roof.

Just my boat and my situation - not necessarily the best for everyone.
 

barnaclephill

New member
Joined
6 Nov 2006
Messages
252
Visit site
[quoteFor joins/overlaps, I use a lick of thin epoxy glue between the layers, then make a series of stitch holes by pushing a red-hot needle through. Finally, stitch with double thread & needles as done by saddle-makers/ shoe-makers (dunno what that technique is called) and then leave for the glue to set.

[/ QUOTE ]

My method was to use no glue, just sew them with the waxed thread (sail repair thread), palm and sailmakers' needles, sold in the chandlery. The "herringbone" stitch was very strong. The downside was that it took about 25 minutes to sew thoroughly each 'join'. When under-employed it was still far cheaper than buying them new.
 

graham

Well-known member
Joined
16 May 2001
Messages
8,084
Visit site
[ QUOTE ]
one longer than the other - using tubular tape, with 4mm shockcord threaded through it. It stays nice and short and out of the way when not needed.

[/ QUOTE ]

Nice idea that Damo.You could use the short one to scramble forward then the long one if you need to .

PS I may be up on the PM tide tommorow (Monday)(not definite yet).
 

damo

New member
Joined
22 Feb 2005
Messages
3,429
Location
k keeper,Portishead
longkeel35.org.uk
That's the idea - and it works well for me. I use the long one to go forward then clip to the mast with the short one without having to release the first.

I'm off tomorrow, prob in the boatyard in the afternoon. I'll drop in to the office later to see if you are around.
 

andlauer

New member
Joined
15 Mar 2007
Messages
310
Location
Paris France
Visit site
Bonjour
I consider that double tether should be mandatory.
John experience, among others, shows that the rogue wave will hit without notice and, under Murphy's law, when you are unclipped!!
Dont forget to use extendible lines otherwise the falling shock would kill you. Mountain climbers have dynamic ropes (to absorb the chocs) as safety lines and static ropes to climb with.
The required resistance on a harness or a safety line... is 2000 kg (DaN) under French normes .
Eric /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 

andlauer

New member
Joined
15 Mar 2007
Messages
310
Location
Paris France
Visit site
Bonjour
I also use the two tethers clipped when I'm at the helm in heavy winds.
One is clipped on the mainsail sheet support on the floor of the cockpit and the other behind me on the safety wire.
If the boat is knocked down, I will not fall and in any other cases, as being washed by a wave for example, I'll stay inside the boat and hopefully the cockpit.
Eric
 

Gargleblaster

Well-known member
Joined
16 Dec 2003
Messages
1,217
Location
Medway, Gillingham Reach
Visit site
[ QUOTE ]
John experience, among others, shows that the rogue wave will hit without notice and, under Murphy's law, when you are unclipped!!

[/ QUOTE ]
I don't know if I am the John Eric is referring to. But the two waves that knocked me down were not exactly rogue, but the first did come along at a very inconvenient time for me when I had taken out the top stormboard allowing a lot of water into the cabin. I was still in the cabin, although standing on my gangway steps and not clipped on, if I had been in the cockpit it would have been a different story. I have a big u-bolt at the top of my companionway that I always clip onto in any sort of sea before emerging from the cabin.
I went to hear Adrian Flannagan who did the vertical circumnavigation in a stainless steel boat 'Barrabas' [French built, Eric]. He spoke very emotionally about a wave that put him over the side at the start of his journey while still in the Western Approaches. He had gone outside to make an adjustment to his direction on the wind vane steering which he could do while still under the sprayhood. A 'rogue wave' picked him up and dumped him over the side. He found himself hanging onto a bungie at the stern using his arm the shoulder of which he had previously dislocated wondering whether his arm or the bungie was going was going to give first. Just as he was preparing to let go another wave picked him up and deposited him on his sugar scoop stern. He attributes that to the hand of God looking after Barrabas and all associated with him.
My luck is such that I wouldn't rely on that but prefer a lifeline, which I even wear to bed in case I have to get up in an emergency and go forward or even just into the cockpit to change course.
 
Top