alt
Well-known member
I'm after something like this, except bigger as it's for a pier wall: NEW D Strake Strip Rubber Fender Dock Inflatable Boat Rib Glue On Sold by M | eBay
Any ideas where to look?
Any ideas where to look?
Rubbing strake for pier wall
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Portofino
Well-known member
alt
Well-known member
Thanks. That stuff seems a bit light-weight, looking for something a little more industrial. I need 60 metres of the stuff!
BruceK
Well-known member
Why not just use a fender board?
alt
Well-known member
Considering using timber planks, but the rubber would be better, I would have thought.
Open to ideas!
BTW, it's not a straight 60 metres. It's one long wall, but there's a curve on it, in some places more of a curve than a thick plank would bend, I think. However, it might be possible to use long concrete screws and keep screwing in over a period of time, hoping it'll bend slowly.
Davy_S
Well-known member
I used to use planks with old carpet nailed to one side, some fastened to a jetty, a couple left ready to hang over the side. it worked well.
alt
Well-known member
I'm trying to cover a wall 60 metres in length and want something that will last a LONG time (15+ years).
Timber and carpet is a great idea for a small area, not 60 metres. Also, small stones can get stuck in carpet and scratch boats.
baily
Member
Try the rubber company Hampshire they do commercial sections.
lusitano
Active member
alt
Well-known member
Thanks. How the heck do you screw it into a concrete wall, though?
I imagine i'd need something with a 'lip' on it.
alt
Well-known member
like this: StanPro Rubber Dock Bumper - Single 2-3/8" x 1-3/8" ... except a little closer to home. I'm in Ireland, so even getting things from the UK will incur Customs Duty now.
lusitano
Active member
Rawl type screws at say 1 mt intervals. Drill the rubber straight through at a size to accomodate the rawl shaft size and then drill the outer rubber again, big enough to allow the fastener head to fit through
Mr Googler
Well-known member
Standard SBR/NR D-Fenders
There’s some instructions on fitting and I think they do rubber plugs to fill the drill holes
There’s some instructions on fitting and I think they do rubber plugs to fill the drill holes
penberth3
Well-known member
That would be a complete PITA and probably wouldn't work. Easier (but still not easy!) to cut short pieces with lap joints and do it like a threepenny bit.
alt
Well-known member
I'll figure something out, hence why I asked here.... please do feel free to share any wild ideas you may have!
Boathook
Well-known member
Put saw cuts on the back of the planks and they will bend round more easily. I did something similar on my mooring last summer after hitting the sheet piling when the wind blew the bows round.
Edit. Just managed to add a picture. Its on sheet piling and the lighter bits are infill to give more strength to those sections. The wood is held in place by counter sunk machine screws. Since I fitted it I haven't hit it but this coming season .....
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alt
Well-known member
Yeah, on the outward facing side, you mean? I've often see this done before, for sure a cheap option.
This is just as a bit of a defense mechanism... it's a concrete wall so it's nicer to have fenders rested against timber rather then concrete.
Boathook
Well-known member
The saw cuts are on the inside so get smaller as the wood is bent round. I did them about every 2 inches to 50% depth of the wood using a 'chop' saw. Still took a while.
Caraway
Well-known member
When looking for awkward items it's better to do an image search and the click through to the website of an image that looks right.
dock wall fendering - Google Search
dock wall fendering - Google Search
Pinnacle
Well-known member
At the local dingy club, the pontoons have escalator handrail all around the edges. Screwed through the middle. The top surface where you would put your hands on it when its on an escalator goes next to the pontoon. You could put as many rows of it on the wall as needed.
since lift and escalator companies have to replace this stuff as soon as it shows any signs of cracking on the top surface, they have loads of it. The club got all of the lengths it needed - and some - for free. It saved the company from having to pay to dispose of it.
it will last 15 years easily.
since lift and escalator companies have to replace this stuff as soon as it shows any signs of cracking on the top surface, they have loads of it. The club got all of the lengths it needed - and some - for free. It saved the company from having to pay to dispose of it.
it will last 15 years easily.