Rotostay E. How to dismantle?

[VicS]

Yesterday I was looking at a Rotostay E on a small boat ( Sunstar 18 ... similar to a Leisure 17) with its owner. ( Michael at Paynes)

The forestay is damaged and must be replaced but we could not see how it all comes apart.

A bit of Googling has found some assembly instructions and also a 3 year old thread on here.

Both refer to a slot in the drum to access the fitting on the bottom end of the wire.

I do not remember seeing a slot! There is however a small hole!
I guess this might be a smaller version than the ones I have found the info on.

We'd be grateful if anyone can shed any light on this with any info that would help us to get it apart.

 

[Poignard]

On my old Rotostay you have to pull up the foil about 3 inches to expose the end of the headstay where it is screwed into the drum.

If it is that type, and it hasn't been disturbed in a long time, it won't move easily.

I tried to attach a .pdf file of the instructions to this post but the 'Manage Attachments' thing won't let me do it because the file is more than the 19.5kb limit.

I also have a 7-page .pdf file of the model E (which mine isn't) that has a radial slot in the top drum.

Maybe these are documents you found in the 3-year old thread but if you want copies I could email them.

 

[chewi]

Yesterday I was looking at a Rotostay E on a small boat ( Sunstar 18 ... similar to a Leisure 17) with its owner. ( Michael at Paynes)

The forestay is damaged and must be replaced but we could not see how it all comes apart.

A bit of Googling has found some assembly instructions and also a 3 year old thread on here.

Both refer to a slot in the drum to access the fitting on the bottom end of the wire.

I do not remember seeing a slot! There is however a small hole!
I guess this might be a smaller version than the ones I have found the info on.

We'd be grateful if anyone can shed any light on this with any info that would help us to get it apart.

I have a rotostay E05 on 25' which is prob a bit big for yours so it may be another model.
The aluminium casting at the bootom of the foil is screwed into the drum with a coarse LEFT hand thread in the aluminium.

It may not be as difficult as some say, mine was reasonably easy to unscrew, but you need to avoid using the moulding for the tack fixing as a leverage. If it breaks, you're a bit buggered. Ashore you can clamp the foil close to the bottom in a vice and use a tourniquet on the drum to get a grip. On board you could fit a vice to a plank or similar, rope around the drum to a cleat, but then turn it CLOCKWISE to unscrew. When unscrewed it will expose the top of the bottlescrew, the bottom is fixed under the drum. The forestay should be vinyl coated . and you should be able to thread a replacement in from the top. XW rigging in Gosport can supply a replacement forestay. (no connection, just a customer).

 

[agurney]

On my old Rotostay you have to pull up the foil about 3 inches to expose the end of the headstay where it is screwed into the drum.

If it is that type, and it hasn't been disturbed in a long time, it won't move easily.

and if it's like the old Rotostay it will have a left hand thread

 

[Dipper]

Chewi has covered it well. I have the 6mm Rotostay E but I don't know if the smallest version is exactly the same.

As he says, the casting on the bottom of the foil has a left hand thread. This allows the foil to be lifted up so you can put a spanner on the swage end of the wire. Mine does have a slot in the drum (remove all the rope to see) which takes a 17mm spanner but I had to grind the shoulders off the spanner to get it through the slot. The nut can then be turned whilst holding the swage fitting at the bottom of the wire. You may have to turn the drum and outer casing slightly so you can get onto the face of the nut. I can't remember if you need to loosen the lower rigging screw lock nut or remove the large 'pin' to allow the outer drum to turn.

The coated forestay is important. Rotostay told me that without the coating the foil gets abraded and aluminium dust falls and clogs up the bearings in the drum.

 

[neil_s]

Yes, my E06 came apart quite easily - stillson on the bottom of the foil (with some rag to pad the jaws) and a screwdriver poked into the drum slot. Just remember it's a lefthand thread.

Don't be fobbed off with a plain s/s forestay replacement - you definitely need the plastic covered wire. Plain s/s wire will be OK for about half a season but after that your roller furling will get very jerky, noisy and stiff.

Might see you Sunday.

Neil

 

[VicS]

Thanks everyone.

I have printed the instructions I found.

I have printed the thread from 3 years ago and I'll print this one too.

Probably be there tomorrow, Saturday.

Neil, I'll pass your comments about the wire onto Michael. Tell him to have word with you too.

He'll have to get a rigger to make up the new forestay. I think he might try Barry’s Reefing & Rigging Repair Service in Thornham marine.

On the other hand he's a bit of a traditionalist so he might opt for hank on sails instead of repairing the spar.


In case it is any use to anyone the the link to the Rotostay instructions is

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/tonyandgi/Technical/Rotostay.pdf

 

[srp]

I've just pm'ed you a link to another document Vic, which may relate to the model E you are working on.

(There is also a detailed set of instructions and photos for the model F furling gear here http://corribee.org/technical/roller-reefing/
for anyone else looking for Rotostay information).