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Replacement LCD Hour meter - Yanmar/Volvo VDO

cpedw

Well-known member
Joined
1 Jun 2001
Messages
1,014
Location
Oban
Thanks for that; I successfully replaced ours yesterday.

A useful tip from another thread is to power up the tacho when replacing the needle. The spindle is free to move when there's no power but it's at 0 when 12V is applied.

Removing the old LCD was the hardest part and I think revealed the problem of the old one - the 6 way ribbon cable fell off and at least 2 of the connections looked to have not been attached for some time.

Derek
 

Ian_Edwards

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Joined
9 Feb 2002
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1,492
Location
Aberdeen Scotland
Hi, I looked at the, video with interest, having the same problem with the Yanmar tachometer.
However, it seems that a key step was missing, how to make a good contact between the old ribbon cable and the new LCD. I can see that it's probably mechanical held in place with silicone, but I don't understand how you'd get a reliable electrical connection.
Can anyone who'd made this repair enlighten me ?
 

jwilson

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Joined
22 Jul 2006
Messages
5,245
Hi, I looked at the, video with interest, having the same problem with the Yanmar tachometer.
However, it seems that a key step was missing, how to make a good contact between the old ribbon cable and the new LCD. I can see that it's probably mechanical held in place with silicone, but I don't understand how you'd get a reliable electrical connection.
Can anyone who'd made this repair enlighten me ?
As I have an as-most-are-after-5-years dead screen Yanmar tacho I also watched the video. I had exactly the same thoughts. Not keen to mess about unless with a good chance of success.....
 

pvb

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Joined
16 May 2001
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42,316
Location
UK East Coast
As I have an as-most-are-after-5-years dead screen Yanmar tacho I also watched the video. I had exactly the same thoughts. Not keen to mess about unless with a good chance of success.....
Digital hour meters are as cheap as chips, so it would be easy to add one, mounted elsewhere. Hours run isn't one of those parameters we need to have in constant sight.
 

cpedw

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Joined
1 Jun 2001
Messages
1,014
Location
Oban
Hi, I looked at the, video with interest, having the same problem with the Yanmar tachometer.
However, it seems that a key step was missing, how to make a good contact between the old ribbon cable and the new LCD. I can see that it's probably mechanical held in place with silicone, but I don't understand how you'd get a reliable electrical connection.
Can anyone who'd made this repair enlighten me ?
The LCD from AK Speedo comes with a ribbon cable already attached. You have to disconnect the old ribbon cable from the clip on the PCB - a step not clearly described. To release the ribbon cable, you ease a thin plastic piece at the outer edge of the clip further away from the PCB. Pull out old ribbin cable, insert new ribbon and push the thin plastic piece back where it was.
 

DuncanHall

Member
Joined
14 Feb 2013
Messages
132
Location
Cardiff Yacht Club
As I have an as-most-are-after-5-years dead screen Yanmar tacho I also watched the video. I had exactly the same thoughts. Not keen to mess about unless with a good chance of success.....
I changed it about a year ago. It just slips in place. It was easy to do. It still works.

I doubled up with an hour meter connecting it to the alternator output which is only live when the engine is running.
 

Ian_Edwards

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Joined
9 Feb 2002
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1,492
Location
Aberdeen Scotland
Thanks cpedw,
I didn't get that impression from the video, but if the ribbon cable is already attached to the LCD, I'll give it a go.
 

Natterjack

Member
Joined
29 Dec 2011
Messages
41
Location
Isle of Wight
As I have an as-most-are-after-5-years dead screen Yanmar tacho I also watched the video. I had exactly the same thoughts. Not keen to mess about unless with a good chance of success.....
The video is a bit misleading, but as confirmed by others the LCD screen is supplied with the new ribbon attached.
I had put up with a dead lcd for 5yrs, it was nice to have the original engine hours back!

Also whilst it was apart I replaced the small bulbs so hopefully good for a least another 5 years
 

Mistroma

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22 Feb 2009
Messages
3,656
Location
Currently in Scotland, boat in Greece (Ionian)
Thanks cpedw,
I didn't get that impression from the video, but if the ribbon cable is already attached to the LCD, I'll give it a go.
I haven't seen the video but it wouldn't be a great replacement if cable wasn't already attached to the LCD. They usually fail due to a poor connection between the LCD and the cable. I think it is only stuck in position on the LCD. As far as I remember, the other end of the cable slides into a ZIF-like socket on the PCB as already described. I think part of it slides up to release the ribbon cable.

I fitted a dirt cheap backup meter by the chart table as the VDO display comes and goes. I also bought a 0.91" OLED display and Arduino nano to replace the LCD sometime. I'd probably have bought the replacement LCD if I'd spotted it. However, fitting the OLED screen will be an interesting little project this summer.
 
Last edited:

Adrian

Member
Joined
8 Jun 2001
Messages
820
Location
Me Midlands, Boat Port Grimaud SOF
I haven't seen the video but it wouldn't be a great replacement if cable wasn't already attached to the LCD. They usually fail due to a poor connection between the LCD and the cable. I think it is only stuck in position on the LCD. As far as I remember, the other end of the cable slides into a ZIF-like socket on the PCB as already described. I think part of it slides up to release the ribbon cable.

I fitted a dirt cheap backup meter by the chart table as the VDO display comes and goes. I also bought a 0.91" OLED display and Arduino nano to replace the LCD sometime. I'd probably have bought the replacement LCD if I'd spotted it. However, fitting the OLED screen will be an interesting little project this summer.
Which backup meter did you use, I'd like to fit one
Cheers
 

Mistroma

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Joined
22 Feb 2009
Messages
3,656
Location
Currently in Scotland, boat in Greece (Ionian)
Which backup meter did you use, I'd like to fit one
Cheers
Nothing special, just one from eBay. It was around Jan. 2017 and that eBay listing is not available now. Just search for "Black 10V-80V DC Hour Meter Sealed Counter Gauge Car Truck Engine DIY" and you should find one for around £4.50.

I connected it to a 12V supply and set an alarm for about 15 hours under the required time to make certain I'd be home. Then I just picked a suitable day to finish running the time up to match the VDO reading.

I also fitted a switch in the supply line as I'd noticed the meter ran a little fast. I've used that a couple of times to freeze the eBay meter and let the VDO one catch up. The VDO one was still working last year but goes blank fairly often and isn't reliable.
 

Justin Barber

New member
Joined
28 Sep 2020
Messages
12
Thanks for that; I successfully replaced ours yesterday.

A useful tip from another thread is to power up the tacho when replacing the needle. The spindle is free to move when there's no power but it's at 0 when 12V is applied.

Removing the old LCD was the hardest part and I think revealed the problem of the old one - the 6 way ribbon cable fell off and at least 2 of the connections looked to have not been attached for some time.

Derek
Hi Derek,

How did you remove the needle please? Does it pop off or unscrew?
Thanks!
 

Mistroma

Well-known member
Joined
22 Feb 2009
Messages
3,656
Location
Currently in Scotland, boat in Greece (Ionian)
Hi Derek,

How did you remove the needle please? Does it pop off or unscrew?
Thanks!
I hope you get a reply from someone who has managed this. I have taken mine apart 3-4 times and always managed to fix the connection underneath the dial by spraying and using thin neoprene to apply a bit of pressure. However, this is only a temporary fix and each time I decide to dismantle fully to fix it properly. I chicken out every time after applying more and more force to pop the needle off the spindle.

Every repair instruction I've seen seems to indicate that it "simply pops off" with a little force. I wonder if some "#?}{#~ supeglued mine together when it was manufactured. :D
 

Justin Barber

New member
Joined
28 Sep 2020
Messages
12
I hope you get a reply from someone who has managed this. I have taken mine apart 3-4 times and always managed to fix the connection underneath the dial by spraying and using thin neoprene to apply a bit of pressure. However, this is only a temporary fix and each time I decide to dismantle fully to fix it properly. I chicken out every time after applying more and more force to pop the needle off the spindle.

Every repair instruction I've seen seems to indicate that it "simply pops off" with a little force. I wonder if some "#?}{#~ supeglued mine together when it was manufactured. :D
OK thank you. The LCD in my unit can not be brought back so needs to be replaced. I’m reluctant to attempt to remove the needle until I know a little more. The video link from the part supplier clearly shows him unscrewing the needle anti-clockwise but he is working with a Volvo unit I think. Could be different for a Yanmar.
 

cpedw

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Joined
1 Jun 2001
Messages
1,014
Location
Oban
Hi Derek,

How did you remove the needle please? Does it pop off or unscrew?
Thanks!
It pops off. Pull carefully in line with the shaft. I think I used a pair of thin nosed tweezers close each side of the shaft.
 

Beneteau381

Active member
Joined
19 Nov 2019
Messages
939
OK thank you. The LCD in my unit can not be brought back so needs to be replaced. I’m reluctant to attempt to remove the needle until I know a little more. The video link from the part supplier clearly shows him unscrewing the needle anti-clockwise but he is working with a Volvo unit I think. Could be different for a Yanmar.
He does the same as me, it isnt unscrewing, we turn it anticlockwise against the internal stop. This allows it to be turned on the shaft. So a gentle anti clockwise twist combined with a pulling motion and it cones off easy! Push it back on with an anticlockwise twist as well, so it is set at zero as you push it on. Ive done loads
 

Mistroma

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Joined
22 Feb 2009
Messages
3,656
Location
Currently in Scotland, boat in Greece (Ionian)
He does the same as me, it isnt unscrewing, we turn it anticlockwise against the internal stop. This allows it to be turned on the shaft. So a gentle anti clockwise twist combined with a pulling motion and it cones off easy! Push it back on with an anticlockwise twist as well, so it is set at zero as you push it on. I've done loads
OK, thanks for that. I suspected that giving it a twist would work but didn't want to press too hard against the stop. I didn't have anything thin enough to fit the gap and grab the spindle tightly. I meant to fabricate something to grip the spindle fairly tightly to make it less stressful. I could use some S/S plate and build it with an offset hinge, sounds complicated but should only take 30 mins. to cut the plate and drill 2 holes for a hinge bolt. Of course I'd forget about it and be back to square one when it failed about 1-2 years later.:D
 

Beneteau381

Active member
Joined
19 Nov 2019
Messages
939
OK, thanks for that. I suspected that giving it a twist would work but didn't want to press too hard against the stop. I didn't have anything thin enough to fit the gap and grab the spindle tightly. I meant to fabricate something to grip the spindle fairly tightly to make it less stressful. I could use some S/S plate and build it with an offset hinge, sounds complicated but should only take 30 mins. to cut the plate and drill 2 holes for a hinge bolt. Of course I'd forget about it and be back to square one when it failed about 1-2 years later.:D
Seriously, not necessary, just a gentle twist and pull
 
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