Removing ethanol from E5 and E10 petrol

thinwater

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Copper alloys, in the presence of water and a trace of salt or organic acid will turn fuel dark due to polymerization (Cu is a catalyst). Most engine manufacturers, ISO, and ASTM prohibit copper tubing for fuel lines for this reason. If the fuel is moving, no problem, but if it is stagnant, this is what happens.

Blog post with engine manf and ASTM links
 

fuelchanger

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The idea of removing the ethernol is for using in small engines like strimmers Chainsaws etc as the ethernol clogs up the carburetors.
 

thinwater

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The idea of removing the ethernol is for using in small engines like strimmers Chainsaws etc as the ethernol clogs up the carburetors.
Why post non-information?

a. Remove the ethanol from e10 and the octane drops about 10-15 points. It does, just sayin', you can Google it. If you really hate e10, buy non-ethanol gas. But don't ruin e10 by removing ethanol, since the formulation is then derated. Better yet, read "b."
b. Ethanol does not clog anything. Corrosion products encouraged by wet e10 can; the solutions is keeping the gas dry and using an anti-corrosion additive. Excessive water can also lead to phase separation.

Keep the gas dry. Use Stbil 360 Marine, Biobor EB, or Merc Stor-N-Start. Easy.
 

38mess

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You can still get E5 around this neck of the woods, I filled up my old motorcycle in Tesco's the other day, £1.51 a ltr😖
 

fuelchanger

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It might work in the US , I had trouble getting my strimmer to run so I removed the ethanol and it started straightaway and run with no problems whatsoever, so I can only say it worked for me.
 

Steve65

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If you remove the ethanol I'm sure that this will decrease the octane rating so it is possible that the engine could be damaged by detonation (pre) / pinking / knocking unless one starts off with a high octane fuel, assuming that this contains ethanol as well.

However, I've not seen any of these videos but I do not believe that adding water in such a manner to remove the ethanol is actually possible. I will try and find some of these videos.

Richard
Correct Richard
You have to add octane boost to compensate for the lost Ethanol...but most Octane boosters are Ethanol based so read carefully before you buy
 

HughClayton

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What’s interesting about this conversation is the huge variability in knowledge in fuel chemistry.

As the world decarbonises, and before we move to fuel cell or battery propulsion systems, we’re likely to have a decade or two of running novel fuels in diesel and gasoline engines. So it will probably make sense for us all to figure out what we do and don’t know about the fuels that we rely on at sea.

Personally, you’d not find me using any type of home-brewed fuel in an engine I rely on but you’re very likely to find me wanting to understand what additives I might need to add to off-the-pump fuels so that they work as well as possible in my boat.

In the UK the excitement about E-10 petrol in modern 4-stroke engines is bizarre but entirely understandable if you’re running an older engine. Similarly the concerns about GTL diesels is equally bizarre but I definitely pay the premium for high-end additives for any diesel stored in a boat fuel tank where the humidity is inevitably higher than you’d like.
 

thinwater

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It might work in the US , I had trouble getting my strimmer to run so I removed the ethanol and it started straightaway and run with no problems whatsoever, so I can only say it worked for me.
The problem with the example is this: I'v used my chainsaw and strimmer with e10 since the beginning of e10 (~ 25 years) without problems. Just a little biobor and keep the vent closed.

Iv'e been a chemical engineer in the fuels business for 35 years. I don't like ethanol for a number of reasons, but I know how to live well with it.
 
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