Rant - Raymarine ST1000 Tiller Pilot

[Oldgeezer]

Agree, It only goes to end stop if something has gone wrong!

I have miss-pushed the standby button before, or tack has gone wrong. (Usually when single handed and trying to do too much)

But I want to stop it graunching away and destroying itself whilst I sort it out.

(I've just removed the ground up end stop rubber washers from inside mine - so I do have a problem!)

 

[tophat22]

I'm currently in communication with Wuxi HongBa Mechanical Electrical Equipment Co Ltd, who are the original manufacturer of the Pelagic actuator arm. Wuxi is a city about 90 miles from Shanghai, by the way.

Their websites:

• English - www.hbactuator.com - not loading for me at the time of writing
• Chinese - www.wxhongba.com
• On the "Made in China" website - https://wxhongba.en.made-in-china.c...-DJ809-DC-Fast-Waterproof-Linear-Actuator.htm

The Pelagic is their HB-DJ809 model - it is available in various configurations,^{[PDF spec sheet]} and I assume that Wuxi adjust the gearing to favour either a faster rate-of-travel or higher load capacity. The Pelagic is the HB-DJ809 with a 25cm stroke and a 200N load capacity, full part number HB-DJ809-12-250-453-58 - anyone with an official Pelagic will find this full part number on it, and will see that the logo matches that on Wuxi HongBa's website.

One european chandler is already selling these with a slight discount against Pelagic's price.

As Pelagic ship it, with pin, plug and bracket, their actuator arm is a drop in replacement for the Raymarine QO-47 actuator arm, but Wuxi do not include the articulating mounting bracket, so you will have to source that separately or have something fabricated. A google search for "linear actuator Install bracket" throws up plenty of possibilities, including Gimson Robotics (their GLA1500 actuator is also similar) and HyQuip in the UK. My Pelagic came with a 3-pin plug from the Bulgin Buccaneer standard series, which Raymarine have used on their QO-47 tiller arms in the past, although it doesn't look like this is used on the current version (in the 90's they used 2-pin Bulgin Buccaneer connectors).

Wuxi HongBa are quite open about being OEM for Pelagic, but have a minimum order quantity of 8 pieces. They are quoting about $50 per unit with a 2 week lead time, but FedEx shipping nearly doubles this cost and no doubt VAT / import duty will have to be added. I'm currently in discussion with them with regards to the position-sensor option - this may allow those handy with an Arduino to pipe rudder position information back to the controller.

The Pelagic does seem very rugged - I know there's been lots of discussion of this before, here and on other forums; I crossed Biscay with mine, and it'll quite happily cope with 30+ knots of wind. However I instigated this search because I wanted to get a spare actuator arm "just in case". I will probably order a batch and sell the spare ones at cost, but beware that I am currently located in the EU so you will probably get hit with a second set of VAT and customs charges if you're in the UK.


@pandos and @Daydream believer - in another thread you asked me to appraise you of the outcome of my enquiries. I do so now, and apologise for the delay.

Thanks for the reply KompetentKrew.
Minimum order quantity of 8 hmmm...
Wonder if there are 8 Aussies who are keen to go for this.

 

[STATUE]

Within days of buying a Raymarine I handed it back for a Simrad.

This was 8 years ago.

Raymarine look the most up to date and offer displays and attractive buttons etc. - but are more from the marketing dept. than the technical lab !

 

[KompetentKrew]

Thanks for the reply KompetentKrew.
Minimum order quantity of 8 hmmm...
Wonder if there are 8 Aussies who are keen to go for this.

The price for 8 of them is still less than buying a single Raymarine RQ47 tiller arm, so you can afford to stick them in your shed (wrap them in plastic first obviously) and take your time finding buyers. Just do a round of posting on boating forum and Facebook buy-sell groups every few weeks.

 

[hpeer]

I'm currently in communication with Wuxi HongBa Mechanical Electrical Equipment Co Ltd, who are the original manufacturer of the Pelagic actuator arm. Wuxi is a city about 90 miles from Shanghai, by the way.

Their websites:

• English - www.hbactuator.com - not loading for me at the time of writing
• Chinese - www.wxhongba.com
• On the "Made in China" website - https://wxhongba.en.made-in-china.c...-DJ809-DC-Fast-Waterproof-Linear-Actuator.htm

The Pelagic is their HB-DJ809 model - it is available in various configurations,^{[PDF spec sheet]} and I assume that Wuxi adjust the gearing to favour either a faster rate-of-travel or higher load capacity. The Pelagic is the HB-DJ809 with a 25cm stroke and a 200N load capacity, full part number HB-DJ809-12-250-453-58 - anyone with an official Pelagic will find this full part number on it, and will see that the logo matches that on Wuxi HongBa's website.

One european chandler is already selling these with a slight discount against Pelagic's price.

As Pelagic ship it, with pin, plug and bracket, their actuator arm is a drop in replacement for the Raymarine QO-47 actuator arm, but Wuxi do not include the articulating mounting bracket, so you will have to source that separately or have something fabricated. A google search for "linear actuator Install bracket" throws up plenty of possibilities, including Gimson Robotics (their GLA1500 actuator is also similar) and HyQuip in the UK. My Pelagic came with a 3-pin plug from the Bulgin Buccaneer standard series, which Raymarine have used on their QO-47 tiller arms in the past, although it doesn't look like this is used on the current version (in the 90's they used 2-pin Bulgin Buccaneer connectors).

Wuxi HongBa are quite open about being OEM for Pelagic, but have a minimum order quantity of 8 pieces. They are quoting about $50 per unit with a 2 week lead time, but FedEx shipping nearly doubles this cost and no doubt VAT / import duty will have to be added. I'm currently in discussion with them with regards to the position-sensor option - this may allow those handy with an Arduino to pipe rudder position information back to the controller.

The Pelagic does seem very rugged - I know there's been lots of discussion of this before, here and on other forums; I crossed Biscay with mine, and it'll quite happily cope with 30+ knots of wind. However I instigated this search because I wanted to get a spare actuator arm "just in case". I will probably order a batch and sell the spare ones at cost, but beware that I am currently located in the EU so you will probably get hit with a second set of VAT and customs charges if you're in the UK.


@pandos and @Daydream believer - in another thread you asked me to appraise you of the outcome of my enquiries. I do so now, and apologise for the delay.

Kompetent Krew,

Did you ever get any of these actuators?
I burned up a motor and am trying to find a actuator with the same motor.

 

[KompetentKrew]

Kompetent Krew,

Did you ever get any of these actuators?
I burned up a motor and am trying to find a actuator with the same motor.

Yes, but not relevant if you have an ST1000.

I would imagine that any 12v motor that fits the dimensions / current draw will work for fixing the ST1000. I believe these motors are in a bunch of standard sizes, and that people have in the past fixed tiller pilots with motors sourced on eBay.

 

[Refueler]

Yes, but not relevant if you have an ST1000.

I would imagine that any 12v motor that fits the dimensions / current draw will work for fixing the ST1000. I believe these motors are in a bunch of standard sizes, and that people have in the past fixed tiller pilots with motors sourced on eBay.

Correct.

They are bog standard brushed motors.

 

[Praxinoscope]

It’s the PC. that is causing me problems, agreed the general construction does not correspond well with the price (I would be ashamed to admit it was my product) but the cost of a replacement PC is ludicrous (over £170) compared to the cost of buying a new unit.
The motor is a standard £15 item from RS components, but of course without the toothed pulley.
With no end stop system ( current limiter or micro switch the end travel can’t be set.
Poor design and poor construction, Will probaly go for a Simrad when replacement is due.

 

[Refueler]

I thought the ST1000 had similar to the old AH800 / 1000 it replaced ......... if the arm stalls or hits ends ... after a short interval the unit defaults to stby ...

 

[Praxinoscope]

I thought the ST1000 had similar to the old AH800 / 1000 it replaced ......... if the arm stalls or hits ends ... after a short interval the unit defaults to stby ...

That’s the theory, it doesn’t always, I have a unit which was full of ‘ground rubber dust’ from where it consistently failed to stop, eventually wrecking the various bits at the end of the travel.

 

[jamie N]

I thought the ST1000 had similar to the old AH800 / 1000 it replaced ......... if the arm stalls or hits ends ... after a short interval the unit defaults to stby ...

I've had this idea for some time, but have been too idle to buy/fit one. Given that my TP10 is specced at using only a max of 0.5A, this current limiter could be useful preventing any mishap with the arm at its limit.

 

[TSB240]

I've had this idea for some time, but have been too idle to buy/fit one. Given that my TP10 is specced at using only a max of 0.5A, this current limiter could be useful preventing any mishap with the arm at its limit.

The problem with using a current limiter is you are likely to draw maximum motor current when either first turning on or when you want to initiate a turn or in rough weather or overcoming an unbalanced rig.

These limiters can be set with a time delay so if the current doesn't drop back to an operating level within that time then it will trip.

They can also be set up for auto or manual reset.

It seems an added complication to me. I used to be a regular user of an ST1000. It served me well as long as I remembered to always put it in standby if there was any risk the tiller pilot could not achieve the desired set course.

The single biggest improvement I made to mine was fitting an eBay 4 channel remote control.

I was able to steer or glide into the wind or current to a controlled stop from outside the cockpit.

I could remotely put the autopilot in standby.

I would then happily lower the anchor and allow the boat to settle back knowing the autopilot wouldn't knock itself to pieces on its end stops and with the rudder held amidships.

Your current limiter might do the same but I think you will get far more nuisance trips in normal operation especially if your boat is not easy on the helm.

 

[jamie N]

I think that having the limits and timings pre-programmable would be of great benefit in eliminating any of your concerns.
I've not ordered one (yet) and will later today check the current draw at start-up and end of travel.
It being a 2 wire in/out and under £8.00 is quite attractive also!

 

[Tranona]

I think that having the limits and timings pre-programmable would be of great benefit in eliminating any of your concerns.
I've not ordered one (yet) and will later today check the current draw at start-up and end of travel.
It being a 2 wire in/out and under £8.00 is quite attractive also!

If you are thinking of buying one, then suggest you get an ST 2000 - currently on offer here marinesuperstore.com/autopilots/cockpit-autopilots/raymarine-st2000-tiller-pilot at a price below that of an ST1000! They have sold 3 (including one to me) since Thursday, but still have over 20 in stock.

Maybe Raymarine are off loading surplus stock.

 

[jamie N]

I've got a TP10, which is fine for my wee Folkboat. There have been a couple of times, through personal misjudgement, where the unit's gone to its limits, and been stalled there for a time; maybe 10 seconds, where I've hated myself for allowing it to happen, so fitting this current limiter would absolve me (a bit) from the guilt/worry of having it occur, not that I'm planning on it reoccurring!