Nanobaro - NMEA/USB barometric sensor, easy DIY electronics project

vas

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That's a bit harsh. Appreciation of the "engraved" name and the air holes would have been better :) .

Although sanding PLA is possible its a PITA. Had I printed in ABS, I think that I could polish up a bit using acetone. Might try and see

You might be interested to see the lower half of the box. This was printed with 0.1mm layer height whereas the top half is 0.2mm layer height - and so prints in half the time.
View attachment 74630


Thanks

TS

come on, I did a "+1" what more would you want? :p

Odd decision btw, I'd print the lower part (looks much smoother indeed) in .2 and the upper in .1
Not to mention, I'd probably wouldn't print a lower part and make sure I stick it flush to a bulkhead or something.
I'd recommend you add a small pushbutton so that once you decide you want to show a ton of other data on the same screen, you can cycle between them ;)

What's the next project then? It's only early December, you could have at least 10 more data reported on the screen by next season start!

cheers

V.
 

tudorsailor

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come on, I did a "+1" what more would you want? :p

Odd decision btw, I'd print the lower part (looks much smoother indeed) in .2 and the upper in .1
Not to mention, I'd probably wouldn't print a lower part and make sure I stick it flush to a bulkhead or something.
I'd recommend you add a small pushbutton so that once you decide you want to show a ton of other data on the same screen, you can cycle between them ;)

What's the next project then? It's only early December, you could have at least 10 more data reported on the screen by next season start!

cheers

V.

I did not take offense - hence my smiley too. If I am completely honest, I was trying to print in two colours so that the word Nanobaro was in white. For some reason the white did not print. There was no real planning in the print quality. It was more to do with speed since I was onto version number x.
I do need a bottom half in order to stick the Nano in place so that the USB can be plugged in solidly. I had to also make a support to hold the Nano inside the box

usb.JPG Nano support.JPG

I will probably put some velcro on the base to hold it in place at the chart table.

TudorSailor
 

vas

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I know, just joking myself.

Nice overall work. Small piece on the rh pic is to support the nano inside the bottom part of the box or as a spacer to keep the screen up to the top piece? i've used thick 2sided tape to keep them in place.

On a serious note, you are going to be using a usb cable to power the thing right?
and you are going to have another cable bringing data in, correct?

On all my arduinos I'm using a small (OK half the size of the arduino...) 5-30V ->5V adjustable dropper 2 or 5A so that I can avoid having a cable just for powering the thing. OK, in my case I need the NMEA2000 cable to pass the data on, so I pick the 12.something V from that and use it inside the box.
This way when I get on the boat, I switch on the NMEA2000 on the el.panel and all the devices fire up so I don't have to go about turning things on (or more importantly forgetting to switch off...)

Maybe on next project you could try and minimise holes and cables going back and forth. I understand it's more complicated if you are NMEA0183 (and a reason to slowly move away from the mess of cables it creates.

V.
 

tudorsailor

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I know, just joking myself.

Nice overall work. Small piece on the rh pic is to support the nano inside the bottom part of the box or as a spacer to keep the screen up to the top piece? i've used thick 2sided tape to keep them in place.

On a serious note, you are going to be using a usb cable to power the thing right?
and you are going to have another cable bringing data in, correct?

On all my arduinos I'm using a small (OK half the size of the arduino...) 5-30V ->5V adjustable dropper 2 or 5A so that I can avoid having a cable just for powering the thing. OK, in my case I need the NMEA2000 cable to pass the data on, so I pick the 12.something V from that and use it inside the box.
This way when I get on the boat, I switch on the NMEA2000 on the el.panel and all the devices fire up so I don't have to go about turning things on (or more importantly forgetting to switch off...)

Maybe on next project you could try and minimise holes and cables going back and forth. I understand it's more complicated if you are NMEA0183 (and a reason to slowly move away from the mess of cables it creates.

V.
The sled is to support the Nano. I will glue it to the floor of the box as it needs to be solid for plugging into the USB socket.

I will have just the mini-USB connected externally. The sensor will be inside the box - hence the air holes in the top half. If connected to the PC, the USB with take the data out to OpenCPN. If I decide to use it as a stand alone electronic barometer, I will power from a USB charging cable. So only one cable as not passing onto NMEA

TS
 

pagoda

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The sled is to support the Nano. I will glue it to the floor of the box as it needs to be solid for plugging into the USB socket.

I will have just the mini-USB connected externally. The sensor will be inside the box - hence the air holes in the top half. If connected to the PC, the USB with take the data out to OpenCPN. If I decide to use it as a stand alone electronic barometer, I will power from a USB charging cable. So only one cable as not passing onto NMEA

TS

There are loads of 12V>5V or 3.3V Dc>DC converters on Ebay for not a lot. With an inline fuse to your "instruments" power - or alternatively from the N2K 12VDC source, there is no great problem. N2K works with active devices running at 3.3V - NMEA 0183 most certainly will not, requiring MAX2332 or something comparable..
I would avoid micro USB plugs on boats for semi permanent installations?
 

vas

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In fact I could print using the PLA filament that contain wood and looks woody. That certainly could be sanded and varnished!

TS

thanks, I didn't know there was a filament with wood fibres in it! In the shopping list :D

fwiw, I was looking in my box of tiny sensor bits and found a BMP085 baro chip, so a couple of hours later my multi output arduino Due black box on the lower helm now outputs PGN130311 (outside temp picked from the NMEA0183 NASA wind instrument and baro from this chip)
Now I need to get a screen on my GMI10 4inch multidisplay that plots temp/wind/baro and learn how to use them :rolleyes:

cheers

V.
 

pagoda

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thanks, I didn't know there was a filament with wood fibres in it! In the shopping list :D

fwiw, I was looking in my box of tiny sensor bits and found a BMP085 baro chip, so a couple of hours later my multi output arduino Due black box on the lower helm now outputs PGN130311 (outside temp picked from the NMEA0183 NASA wind instrument and baro from this chip)
Now I need to get a screen on my GMI10 4inch multidisplay that plots temp/wind/baro and learn how to use them :rolleyes:

cheers

V.

A running/cyclic buffer with about 12 hours of data at roughly 5 minute intervals - not a huge problem array wise ?
 

vas

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A running/cyclic buffer with about 12 hours of data at roughly 5 minute intervals - not a huge problem array wise ?

not at all, however, AFAIMC that's a job for the plotter and the 4inch multidisplays. I'm not connecting my bus to openplotter anyway (can I get it to N2K I wonder!). I have to check what they have in firmware and how useful they can be.
Problem is that I came back two hours ago as it was getting definitely chilly down there outside temp 7C :eek: Not the right conditions to debug code imho!

V.
 

tudorsailor

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thanks, I didn't know there was a filament with wood fibres in it! In the shopping list :D

.

Formfutura have various "woods" https://www.formfutura.com/shop/category/composite-materials-easywoodtm-179 It is PLA with wood. You need a bigger nozzle in order to print. I have a 0.6mm nozzle on my Ultimaker 2. It jammed the standard 0.4mm nozzle.
I have lots left on the roll if you want me to print something for you so you can see what its like

Formfutura also do flexible material too which makes for softer items

TS
 

vas

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thanks, kind of you, don't have anything in mind, but got a couple of printers at the office. Got to check nozzle size and just order a roll for testing.

cheers

V.
 

tudorsailor

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thanks, kind of you, don't have anything in mind, but got a couple of printers at the office. Got to check nozzle size and just order a roll for testing.

cheers

V.

For the Ultimaker 2 there is a nozzle kit with additional nozzles that are easy to change. For the Ultimaker 3 its not so cheap. You have to buy a whole new print head. Luckily I have both a U2 and a U3, so use the U2 for the woody filament. The larger nozzle also is useful to speed up prototyping before making the final print

TS
 

pagoda

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For the Ultimaker 2 there is a nozzle kit with additional nozzles that are easy to change. For the Ultimaker 3 its not so cheap. You have to buy a whole new print head. Luckily I have both a U2 and a U3, so use the U2 for the woody filament. The larger nozzle also is useful to speed up prototyping before making the final print

TS

Getting a bit off -topic here! My younger son has disappeared to the Alps for the winter, leaving his 3 d printer at our house. ( A Bigbox E3D). I have a few small boat items I'd like to make over the winter. I am fully aware that most of the effort is actually defining the item , then generating the G-code for the printer. I am not planning a career in CAD/CAM. What do you reckon for an easyish low cost /no cost 3d design software? (and slicer software as well)?
 

tudorsailor

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Getting a bit off -topic here! My younger son has disappeared to the Alps for the winter, leaving his 3 d printer at our house. ( A Bigbox E3D). I have a few small boat items I'd like to make over the winter. I am fully aware that most of the effort is actually defining the item , then generating the G-code for the printer. I am not planning a career in CAD/CAM. What do you reckon for an easyish low cost /no cost 3d design software? (and slicer software as well)?

You need two bits of software. The first is the software to design your widget. So this is the CAD software. I use 123D design which is free but not easily found now. If you PM me I may be able to help This makes the .stl file A more sophisticated bit of software is Fusion360 which is also free https://www.autodesk.com/campaigns/fusion-360-for-hobbyists

You then need slicing software which takes the .stl and tells your printer how to actually print it. The instructions are in .gcode
Cura is free slicing software made by ultimaker but can make gcode for other printers.
https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software
I am using an older version and the Bigbox is not listed. If you can get the latest version of CUra to load (which I cannot for some reason) then you can see if Bogbox is supported. If it is, then Cura is free. If Cura does not work then Simplify3D does work with Bigbox, but you'll have to buy it.
If you need help - do ask

TS
 

vas

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cannot really help on the slicer as it's years since I tried it...
however, on the cad program front you can also try the open source blender3D (download from blender.org for free of course) It will export straight to stl files.

cheers

V.
 

dolabriform

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Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I have been looking at this as a little winter project.
The original Blog Nanobaro NMEA barometer refers to an "Arduino Nano"

Does anyone know the difference between the different versions of this device?

Nano Every: Arduino Nano Every (with headers)
Classic: Arduino Nano (with headers)

Thanks..
Looking at the comments on that site, the Nano Every has a more memory than a standard nano and a different processor. But either would job.
 
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