Mahogany Coach Roof should I use Colean

[Nigelb]

My Vindo has a laminated Mahogany coach roof which was treated with Colean in 2010, it had lasted very well giving 10 years of maintenance free service so I am considering reusing this solution. However the previous owner made it clear that it was very difficult to work with and had to be applied in a very stringent way. I understand it is very difficult to get sand or flatten between coats ant needs to be thinned on all vertical surfaces etc.

Given that it has performed well previously I am considering using it again but I am worried that it does not appear to be a popular solution with those who own classic boats and the Yards on the Hamble all prefer a conventional varnish system.

Any advice or experience please?

 

[Rappey]

I've never heard of it but after a google it looks very interesting stuff.
Have you a pic of what your coach roof now looks like after 10 years ?

 

[lusitano]

I,ve used it several times.
It is indeed quite difficult stuff to work with and as I recall, requires around six full coats (no thinning) in order to give a long lasting finish.
UV protection qualities are not particulary good so the Coelan stain/primer is recommended prior to coating, although the wood will still"yellow" over time
Expensive and a nightmare to remove if or when the time comes. Also tricky to repair.

 

[banger]

I have used it on several boats over the years, never had a problem with it and it lasts, expensive though, but if you don't want to re varnish every year, or if you are lazy like me, use it.

 

[Tranona]

If you can get all the Colean off then consider using this Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 plus | Sikkens with this Sikkens Cetol HLS Plus | Sikkens HLS Plus Exterior Woodstain as a base coat. Very long lasting, UV resistant and easy to touch up or refresh.

Sorry about the links being to different suppliers, but obviously available together from a wide range of sources.

 

[Gary Fox]

Filter 7 is excellent

 

[srm]

and the Yards on the Hamble all prefer a conventional varnish system.

So as to guarantee repeat business every six to twelve months to keep it looking good.

As the antifoul lads in our marina commented when I explained that I was touching up my coppercoat after ten years in the water "Thats no good for our business".

 

[Laminar Flow]

I have used Coelan on a large iroko deckhouse, cockpit paneling, king plank, toe rails and rail cap - the stuff is the work of the devil.

The boat traveled from Europe to the Canadian West Coast and at the end of the 18 month voyage it was shedding it's Coelan skin like a molting adder. Unfortunately the shedding is not consistent and removing it is extraordinarily difficult - good luck getting it off your Vindo.

Additionally, when wet the stuff turns milky white and looks like crap. To add insult to injury it was exorbitantly expensive.

At the time Coelan was promoting it's product on a 30m bright hulled brigantine - bloody nightmare that must have been!

 

[Tranona]

So as to guarantee repeat business every six to twelve months to keep it looking good.

As the antifoul lads in our marina commented when I explained that I was touching up my coppercoat after ten years in the water "Thats no good for our business".

Could not agree more. There is enough evidence and real world experience to show that other coatings, now promoted extensively by the major manufacturers are far superior to conventional labour intensive "conventional" yacht varnishes.

 

[Nigelb]

I've never heard of it but after a google it looks very interesting stuff.
Have you a pic of what your coach roof now looks like after 10 years ?

So as to guarantee repeat business every six to twelve months to keep it looking good.

As the antifoul lads in our marina commented when I explained that I was touching up my coppercoat after ten years in the water "Thats no good for our business".

It had crossed my mind as well, I think if you really want a deep mirror only varnish will do, poly coats are great but the finish and depth of colour are not the same.

 

[Rappey]

I've tried so many different coatings over the years. I have mahogany rubbing stakes and cockpit combing. The 38yr old cockpit combing has some hairline cracks which always ruin the finish before long.
I found woodskin was great at filling the then cracks but 5 years on all the horizontal surfaces have failed with peeling/chopping but the vertical surfaces are all still quite good

 

[Tranona]

Fine for furniture, but for me a poor tradeoff on the time effort against durability for external work. Also you might be surprised at how good Cetol is. Used it on a mast a couple of years ago. Not a particularly good photo, but looked as good as traditional spar varnish except close up, but based on previous experience with a similar Sikkens product would expect a life of at least 10 years.

 

[BabaYaga]

In my view, ease of stripping back to wood is just as important as the durability and longevity of the finish. These boats are now typically 40 to 50 years old. They were built with the adhesives available at that time and to some extent with questionable construction. Things will happen that might cause water ingress that are not related to the toughness of the coating. In this respect good quality traditional varnish is not a bad choice. Yes, a rub down and a new coat every year is required, but it is really not much of a burden IMO.

 

[howardclark]

I’ve got all my external brightwork finished in coelan apart from walk on surfaces which I leave as uncoated teak.
coelan is not difficult but it is important to follow the instructions. Most of my boat was coated in 2005- I have never needed to strip it off(which is not easy) but do regularly repair smaller areas of damage.
make sure the wood is sanded clean - don’t use chemicals to clean -for best results thin the coating by about 10% and apply seven thin coats. It goes off well with high humidity but avoid rain when it is wet unless you want it to look like chickenpox!
Coelan is very tough but abrasion will damage it as it would do varnish.

 

[Nigelb]

I’ve got all my external brightwork finished in coelan apart from walk on surfaces which I leave as uncoated teak.
coelan is not difficult but it is important to follow the instructions. Most of my boat was coated in 2005- I have never needed to strip it off(which is not easy) but do regularly repair smaller areas of damage.
make sure the wood is sanded clean - don’t use chemicals to clean -for best results thin the coating by about 10% and apply seven thin coats. It goes off well with high humidity but avoid rain when it is wet unless you want it to look like chickenpox!
Coelan is very tough but abrasion will damage it as it would do varnish.

Many thanks

 

[MADRIGAL]

Filter 7 is excellentView attachment 119604

I have never used Cetol, but your picture of the results with Filter 7 is impressive. I would definitely consider it based on the photo.