Lifelines

Neeves

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We changed from stainless wire to dyneema about 5 years ago. No issues. Really boring. Unlike wire which corrodes, the wires break individual strands. You need to watch regarding sheets, headsail sheets, spinnaker sheets rubbing on the dyneema, it is very strong, it is abrasion resistant but if rubbed in one place - it will melt.

If you fall against dyneema or want to hang on to it - then it is no more user friendly than wire.

Easy to install - you can do it yourself - just measure accurately.

We would not change back.

Jonathan
 

Sandy

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Yes, and would not go back to wire. Better feel when you handle them.

Marlow do a dyneema line cover with a sheath with a reflective thread running through it. Expensive, but its really useful seeing where the lines are on a dark and stormy night.
 

Cowie

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Hi
Thank you for your feed back I am pretty much set for changing them over

much apprecatied for the feed back
 

Ian_Edwards

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I made new life lines out of 6mm D12 dyneema (no cover) 6years ago, there's no signs of wear yet.
I used Brummel splices and cow hitches to secure one end to the pulpit or pushpit, and spliced in SS hard eye and a dyneema lashing at the other end.
6mm dyneema has a breaking strain of around 3.5 tons, 6mm 7x19 AISI 316 wire, about 2 tons. A 6mm closed rigging screw eye has a breaking strain of about 1 ton.
Dyneema doesn't rust, it's easy to inspect, it's reasonably UV tolerant, there isn't a fatigue problem and it's stronger than SS wire and rigging screws.
Why wouldn't you use it?
 

Cowie

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Hi Ian thank you for your feed back
I am going to change over to Dyneema I have DM 20 uncovered which I will use., cut down on sail wear being one of many other reasons. Good to know it works out well.
Currently will be useing 10mm over kill but since I have a large amount why not.
 

R.Ems

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Quick question please: Don't you find Dyneema very tough to slice through fast with a knife, compared to polyester, if you need to in emergency? And how about bending the cut ends together afterwards?
(main example in mind is gettting a thing//person back over the side easily, yes you can have Q/R releases at the ends, but this often doesnt clear the stanchions..)
Thanks for pointing out what I have failed to grasp!
 

Cowie

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I find Dyneema quick to splice the knifes we use for cutting during the splice process cut it like butter. Since there are a number of them onboard no problems there will be quick release fitted.
For us the time a man went overboard we lowered the stern ladders and retrived him with little hastle. Due to the hight from the water line to the top rail it is the best option diffrent things work for diffrent folk.
 

Neeves

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If a man went overboard for us the easiest and logical location to get them back on board would be the transom and I think with a yacht with a sugar scoop and or steps at the transom that would be the logical place to retrieve. Lifting a person up the sides and over the stanchions would be a nightmare - yes you could cut the lifelines -but to make it easy you would need to cut them all, making it dangerous for those on board making the retrieval .

Really you need to look at the big picture and work out what is best for you, your crew and your yacht. There is unlikely to be one right answer.

Jonathan
 

Sandy

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Quick question please: Don't you find Dyneema very tough to slice through fast with a knife, compared to polyester, if you need to in emergency? And how about bending the cut ends together afterwards?
(main example in mind is gettting a thing//person back over the side easily, yes you can have Q/R releases at the ends, but this often doesnt clear the stanchions..)
Thanks for pointing out what I have failed to grasp!
That is why you splice a stainless steel hard eye at one end and use something easy to cut/untie. Just like most stainless steel set ups.
 

Cowie

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That is why you splice a stainless steel hard eye at one end and use something easy to cut/untie. Just like most stainless steel set ups.
Use ceramic rings for the hard eyes where require but not to worried about cutting it I've got 250 meters spare,
all your feed back has been most enlighting
 

flaming

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If a man went overboard for us the easiest and logical location to get them back on board would be the transom and I think with a yacht with a sugar scoop and or steps at the transom that would be the logical place to retrieve. Lifting a person up the sides and over the stanchions would be a nightmare - yes you could cut the lifelines -but to make it easy you would need to cut them all, making it dangerous for those on board making the retrieval .

Really you need to look at the big picture and work out what is best for you, your crew and your yacht. There is unlikely to be one right answer.

Jonathan
You're only thinking of one MOB scenario, namely the one where they have completely lost contact with the boat and you've sailed back to them. The scenario where it is pretty bouncy and you have someone overboard but still clipped on has a strong argument for dumping the lifelines and trying to get them back on board where they are, rather than unclipping them to move to the stern, risking losing contact with them.

In that instance if you have the attachment of the lifelines as a separate dynema lashing (as has been best practice with SS lines for years anyway) then once you have recovered them 5 minutes with a bit of Dynema and some knots gets your guardwires back in place.
 

Neeves

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You're only thinking of one MOB scenario, namely the one where they have completely lost contact with the boat and you've sailed back to them. The scenario where it is pretty bouncy and you have someone overboard but still clipped on has a strong argument for dumping the lifelines and trying to get them back on board where they are, rather than unclipping them to move to the stern, risking losing contact with them.

In that instance if you have the attachment of the lifelines as a separate dynema lashing (as has been best practice with SS lines for years anyway) then once you have recovered them 5 minutes with a bit of Dynema and some knots gets your guardwires back in place.
I'm considering when there are only 2 on board - and one of them is over the side. I'd rather allow them to fall back to the end of the jackstays and take them in over the transom than have no lifelines to retain the one on board. Which is more important keeping one on board or spending time re-attaching the guard rails you have just cut.

Different scenarios need different reactions.

Jonathan
 

Neeves

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Can you tie fender lines with a knot around naked dyneema braid (the 8 or 12 strand stuff)?


We tie fenders to the base of the stanchions and base of pulpit, pushpit. We use a cross section of fenders - 'normal' long fenders and spherical fenders. We also use a fender board - I made one from a long length of marine ply with closed cell foam on the 'hull' side. Note - its a cat we have plenty of storage space - as long as the stored items are not heavy :)

Jonathan
 
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