Laminating your own plywood

jamie N

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In very simple terms,(because I dont know the name for it), find the line at the top of the page that begins with "http". Highlight it, by putting your cursor at the start, holding down the left button on the mouse and moving the cursor right along the line and just past it, in case there is any code hidden, then hold down "Ctrl" and"c" at the same time. This copies the line.
Then go back to the tab that contains the website where you want to insert the link, make sure the cursor is where you want to place the link, and press "Ctrl"and "v" simultaneously. This "pastes" the link.
I still don't know how to connect a link to words like "here" or "this", like some clever posters do.
When you're in the 'box' writing the reply to a thread, there're the 'icons' above the writing area., the 9th one along is the thread link one. The others can change to 'bold' or 'itallic', whatever.
If you insert the 'http: whatever' that you want in the upper box, then the comment of how you wish the link to appear as in the lower one.
Moving your cursor along these icons should illustrate what it does, the one you want is "insert link".
 

NorthRising

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I need a four-foot by eight-inch piece of very stiff ply, but with a slight curve. Given that I can't induce curvature in wood fabricated specifically to resist it, I'm going to try making my own.

The fact that I happen to have a four-foot by two-foot sheet of cheap 5mm ply which already has a suitable bend in it, is a happy coincidence.

It isn't quality plywood, but I'm thinking that the coats of epoxy which will be necessary to glue the 'plies' together, can provide pretty good encapsulation if I take care to coat the end-grain. Also, it won't often be immersed (I hope).

I'll end up with a piece 4ft by 8", about 16mm thick. Or I could cut four six-inch strips, to make a thicker 'plank'.

It needs to be rigid and robust because the plan is to mount an outboard bracket on it. A bit hard to describe till it's done.

Any advice or experience of similar jobs? Thanks. (y)
All I can say is it may well avoid a significant delivery charge.
 

lustyd

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I used very thin ply from B&Q once to make a wake skate. I used poly resin and just made a mold from wood and weighted it down. 3-4 layers and it was very stiff and still no problems with water ingress 15 years later despite its primary use being in water. Make the curve ever so slightly tighter than you want and it’ll relax a little
 

caiman

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Spirit(of Glenans) and jamie N.Thank you both for the pointers.TBH, being retired,I rarely have time to respond to posts on here.Only responding to posts recently due to the wet weather/lock down restricting my hobbies.(currently rebuilding a Stuart Stevens design speed boat and trailor(I should post a new thread asking for info on the boat),rebuilding the engine on a Triumph T21, got a Montesa 247 Cota waiting for crank seals and a clutc, plus other stuff waiting in the wings)However,I know where this advice is,and so can refer back to it if needed in the future,so again thank you.
I did a quick Google before replying to the OP,and there is a huge amount of info/guidance on the web regarding using epoxy instantly available on the web.The OP should not have any problems finding out how to proceed, even without a link to a specific site.(OP- if you do have difficulty finding out what you want-repost)

One thing I would stress is follow ALL the safety advice regarding using epoxy.For me,having discovered how versatile the material is(wish I knew about it when I was racing motorcycles,but I have made some nice carbon fibre belt guides for my Buell road bike) I would be mortified if I gained the allergy and were not able to use epoxy in the future.
Cheers
 

Beneteau381

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I'm rather disappointed to read that, as I thought that their chief purpose was to keep the crew dry and prevent rain/spray going down the hatch during inclement conditions. I crewed on a boat which crossed Biscay in a named storm, and subsequently sailed to St. Lucia with my wife on board, without ever taking down either the sprayhood or the bimini!
We sailed to the Algarve with our cockpit tent up, not a prob!
 

coopec

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I have a dodger like that and it doesn't fold down. If the dodger is carried away by a storm, so will my whole boat!

If the yacht was inundated by a large wave I would expect the perspex would be stove in and maybe the remainder would be left.
I think we are talking about two different things: I'm talking about survival conditions. In a major storm no one should be on deck


Storm Tactics Handbook: Modern Methods of Heaving-to for ...
books.google.com.au › books


Modern Methods of Heaving-to for survival in extreme conditions Larry Pardey, Lin Pardey ... Choose a removable or fold-down dodger to cut windage


How To Help Your Boat Survive A Major Storm - Practical Sailor
www.practical-sailor.com › ... › Anchoring Mooring


May 6, 2011 — If your boat hung perfectly head to wind, the windage loading would ... First, remove Bimini tops, cockpit dodgers, spray curtains around cockpits, and awnings. ... to take the loads exerted on them by boats in storm conditions.
 
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dancrane

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Gentlemen, I'm grateful for so much interest in the question, and for so much detailed advice. I can't deny the cheapness of the wood which I already have is not encouraging, although the task it will perform is not hugely demanding.

I have some epoxy left over from a year or more ago, so I'll test the idea. It's entirely likely that I won't be able to replicate the subtle curve I need while remote from the boat, in which case I may have to think again.

I'm not equipped with anything in the way of technology, so I was thinking I will clamp the epoxied pieces together, rather than vacuum-bag them. But I'll spend time first looking at the accounts of such work online. (y)
 
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