KAD 43 Circulation Pump

JumboTed

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Hi all,

I have a couple of Kad43s in a boat i recently purchased. they haven't seen much (or any) love for a while. I am looking to remove the circulation pump as I suspect I have a leaky gasket or seal of some sort. I have the Belts all off but can't suite figure out how to get the last few bolts off without taking off the pulley. Can anyone help me with this? Is it just a matter of using a puller to remove the pully from the inner shaft? I have attached a few photos for reference

Many thanks in advancePXL_20210104_153029248.jpgPXL_20210104_153057038.jpg
 

Mr Googler

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You can reach all the bolts with that pulley in place. It’s pressed onto the shaft so no chance of getting it off without a bearing press.

you need to remove the bracket/idle bottom left and remove the square thermostat housing on the top You’ll need new seals for that too. Looks like you have a leak between thermostat

here’s a link to the engine workshop manuals

volvo manuals
BFA41909-1D20-4D15-9495-4AF0F4228FF3.jpeg


. Just after removal. That picture is upside down for some reasonF9F92A63-0F61-485E-90F1-119D110410EA.jpeg
 
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Jamie Dundee

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You can reach all the bolts with that pulley in place. It’s pressed onto the shaft so no chance of getting it off without a bearing press.

you need to remove the bracket/idle bottom left and remove the square thermostat housing on the top You’ll need new seals for that too. Looks like you have a leak between thermostat

here’s a link to the engine workshop manuals

volvo manuals
View attachment 106585


. Just after removal. That picture is upside down for some reasonView attachment 106590
Now that’s a comprehensive lockdown reply (y)
 

JumboTed

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Many thanks for the reply. I’ve the thermostat housing off and will get the bracket off next week. Thanks for the manuals also!
 

Moodysailor

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It's pretty much summed up above, but a 12mm standard (shallow) socket on an extension will reach all the bolts once the rest is off. You shouldn't even need a 'wobbly' extension for it. Don't mess with the pulley unless you absolutely have to, and only if you have the correct tools - it's a quick way to wreck the pump otherwise.

The point about the thermostat housing is really well made - you absolutely need new seals for those (the two o-rings that go on the plastic tube between exh. manifold and t-housing, and the larger rubber seal that goes between the t-housing and pump). Failure to change those will result in misery as you find that you dump all your new coolant into the bilge....

For some reason (I know why, but it is boring), VP designed the exh. manifold to be fitted after the t-housing. This makes it tricky to refit in situ. The tip here are some angled picks, patience, an inspection mirror and lots of grease. Clean the sealing areas really well, split the t-housing, grease the hell out of the o-rings and big seal and put the seal onto the pump first. Then carefully get the pipe into the exh. manifold. The lower seal will probably be pinched or displaced, so it is then a case of using the angled picks and inspection mirror to 'tease' this into position. Having loads of grease will help this. You will probably need to put some weight down on the t-housing to get the bolts to go back in with a new seal.

I have known more than one very good engineer get this wrong and either the lower seal gets displaced, or an o-ring on the pipe gets nicked - again you only find out when the coolant goes in! The alternative is taking off the exh. manifold, with all the associated hassle, so it's worth persevering.

Good luck!
 

volvopaul

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Getting the pump off is the easy bit , getting it back on is the difficult part if you do not get the tube ring located correctly , a smear of gasket sealant on both edges helps it located and seal , or it’s exhaust manifold off .
 

Trundlebug

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If it's any help I've recently (Nov 2020) rebuilt the circulation pump on my MD31a, which looks to be almost identical to yours.
Don't be worried about the Keypart prices of £1000 for a new pump, or £400 for a repair kit, I rebuilt mine for less than £100.

The bearings are readily available from all good local bearing suppliers for around £10 for both, the O-rings similarly.
The VP parts you do have to buy are the top seal as mentioned, the gasket, and the ceramic seal. I bought my ceramic seal from eBay but found out afterwards it would have been cheaper from the swindlery.. (seal is about £30).

If you have a good 6" vice and a reasonable set of tools, washers and bits and bobs in your garage you'll be able to DIY without too much problem.
The critical steps in the rebuild are to support both outer and inner parts of the seal when pressing it onto the shaft to avoid crushing it, and to remove the impeller before reassembly and refit it last of all. Press it in 0.8mm in from the sealing face.

Good luck.
 

Moodysailor

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If it's any help I've recently (Nov 2020) rebuilt the circulation pump on my MD31a, which looks to be almost identical to yours.
Don't be worried about the Keypart prices of £1000 for a new pump, or £400 for a repair kit, I rebuilt mine for less than £100.

The bearings are readily available from all good local bearing suppliers for around £10 for both, the O-rings similarly.
The VP parts you do have to buy are the top seal as mentioned, the gasket, and the ceramic seal. I bought my ceramic seal from eBay but found out afterwards it would have been cheaper from the swindlery.. (seal is about £30).

If you have a good 6" vice and a reasonable set of tools, washers and bits and bobs in your garage you'll be able to DIY without too much problem.
The critical steps in the rebuild are to support both outer and inner parts of the seal when pressing it onto the shaft to avoid crushing it, and to remove the impeller before reassembly and refit it last of all. Press it in 0.8mm in from the sealing face.

Good luck.

Good work.

There is also a critical dimension for the impeller to body dimension, if this is too large it won't move enough water. The dimension is in the manual. I would expect this to be a tighter tolerance on the supercharged engines that have a higher heat transfer demand.
 

JumboTed

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Thank you for the help everyone. Got everything swapped and back on again with not too much trouble. Taking it slow seems to be the key for this one. I put the exhaust manifold side on first and then worked the thermostat to circ pump seal in. Seems to be no leaks... I have other problems, possibly a gone turbo which I will start a new thread for. Thanks for all the help so far.
 

Moodysailor

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Thank you for the help everyone. Got everything swapped and back on again with not too much trouble. Taking it slow seems to be the key for this one. I put the exhaust manifold side on first and then worked the thermostat to circ pump seal in. Seems to be no leaks... I have other problems, possibly a gone turbo which I will start a new thread for. Thanks for all the help so far.

Glad that it went well, you did it in the correct order.

The turbo will seem easy after that ;) (y)
 

alt

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Thank you for the help everyone. Got everything swapped and back on again with not too much trouble. Taking it slow seems to be the key for this one. I put the exhaust manifold side on first and then worked the thermostat to circ pump seal in. Seems to be no leaks... I have other problems, possibly a gone turbo which I will start a new thread for. Thanks for all the help so far.
The only hard bit with the turbo is 1 (of the 4) nuts holding it to the exhaust manifold, it's a b1tch to get to. It was actually easy to take it off, but i'd imaging putting it back on would be tough (I assembled the turbo / exhaust manifold while they were off and put them back as 1 unit).

TIP: The oil feed / return pipes will get in your way. If you remove the bottom oil pipe, it'll make it a lot easier. This is held to the turbo with 2 bolts and then on the engine block (starboard) it's just a flexible hose with a jubilee clip.
 

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