RichardtheBoffin
Member
I have a 26 foot Carver crusier. It has a bathing/swim platform. I want to mount an Aux 10hp outboard as she is single engined. What's the best way to do it, if it's even possible?
Cheers!
Cheers!
How to mount an aux outboard on a swim platform?
- Thread starter RichardtheBoffin
- Start date
Seastoke
Well-known member
is a ten big enough , is it for the sea.
Rappey
Well-known member
Would suggest a long shaft so it does lessens the risk of being dunked whilst boat goes up and down.
Basically a block of wood or similar bolted at the rear edge of the platform with bracing brackets and at the right height.
Searched for an image as a picture speaks a thousand words, found one but 400 euros ? Seemed very steep just for a bit of plastic/wood, then noticed its actually for a lift/lower system .
Have a look and you will see the basic clamp on bracket and their other up/down system
Douglas Kicker Bracket or Outboard Motor Bracket
Basically a block of wood or similar bolted at the rear edge of the platform with bracing brackets and at the right height.
Searched for an image as a picture speaks a thousand words, found one but 400 euros ? Seemed very steep just for a bit of plastic/wood, then noticed its actually for a lift/lower system .
Have a look and you will see the basic clamp on bracket and their other up/down system
Douglas Kicker Bracket or Outboard Motor Bracket
RichardtheBoffin
Member
Poole Harbour.
RichardtheBoffin
Member
Interesting!
Rather an expensive and overly complex contraption. Maybe all I need is an upright on the swim platform to drop the motor onto, braced against the transom to avoid too much torsion on the platform. Control would have to be from the platform unless I could rig up some sort of extension.
RichardtheBoffin
Member
This is probably what I want... but I can make one for a lot less than £100...
It looks very low in the water though?
It looks very low in the water though?
Rappey
Well-known member
From the water to the top of the outboard bracket will be 15 ,20 and 25 inches, short shaft to extra long.
RichardtheBoffin
Member
Thanks.
I'll have a proper look at where my platform is with respect to the waterlane tomorrow.
Does the outboard have to be mounted centrally? (It would clear the Z drive as it's out on the platform) Or can it be offset?
Sticky Fingers
Well-known member
Or just buy Seastart...! Saves all that capital and maintenance cost for the odd time you might need it.
Rappey
Well-known member
You can mount it to one side. If for instance stbd side it will be turning the boat to port a little when pointing straight, but a little turn to stbd on outboard will enable straight ahead.
Outboards have a natural turning effect so larger ones are sometimes offset from the centre line to counteract this. They also have a sacrificial anode like a little inverted fin under the anti cavitation plate. This is usually set to one side acting like a rudder to counteract the rotation of the prop. An extension arm on a twist throttle will enable steering from the cockpit but gear select ? Do you have long arms ? ?
Outboards have a natural turning effect so larger ones are sometimes offset from the centre line to counteract this. They also have a sacrificial anode like a little inverted fin under the anti cavitation plate. This is usually set to one side acting like a rudder to counteract the rotation of the prop. An extension arm on a twist throttle will enable steering from the cockpit but gear select ? Do you have long arms ? ?
RichardtheBoffin
Member
Sods law says, if I get my OB mounted up I will never need it! Hopefully...
Canopy Locked
Well-known member
When I bought a Hardy 24 many years ago, it had a 15HP mounted on the swim platform. It had a fancy remote control unit. Tried it out in a sea Loch when I bought the boat - pushed it along nicely. When I got it home and tried it out again in the North sea in a "normal" swell / waves - it couldn't move the boat as it was pitching in and out of the water. Took it off and sold it - far more trouble than it's worth - Buy a decent anchor & chain and a sea anchor (drogue) , 2nd VHF radio and these will probably get you out of trouble faster than relying on an outboard stuck on the swim platform
BruceK
Well-known member
This
You can put an aux on 10% the power output of the main engines and think you will be fine but the big difference is torque to change momentum. Otherwise you will move the boat sure, but with wind , waves and current you will simply be moving an uncontrollable, unsteerable mass as you cannot respond timeously to changing conditions.
Plum
Well-known member
Although I concluded it was not practical, for my purpose, to mount an auxiliary outboard, I did seriously consider the arrangement shown in this picture DSC_0031.JPG
Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
RichardtheBoffin
Member
Good advice. Thanks. Maybe I am overthinking it... Money better spent on electronic ignition, a 2nd battery and the items you recommended.
My boat has a 1980's Volvo Penta Petrol V8 225hp on a Z drive. It's been reliable but then it's not been out to sea yet. Mostly pottering about on Rivers. (Yes totally the wrong engine for that!)
It still runs points and a carb. Would an electronic ignition be a good way to reduce risk of failure? Or does just taking spare points and condenser mean its going to be easier to fix if theres a fault?
LBRodders
Well-known member
BruceK
Well-known member
If your engine is serviced and in good sea worthy condition mitigating risk isn't really helped by pumping more into the engine, rather carry spares for a breakfix on the water and the knowledge on how to use them. Mitigating risk is more what to do should that risk arise and it becomes a serious problem.
Things that will help you.
There will be more but the idea is to forward plan not only about prevention but what you will do and how you will do it when a crisis arrives and know that plan as many people become overwhelmed and actually make the problem worse. A good example of this may be jumping straight into the problem and spending vital minutes faffing about fixated on the failure when you should be following a set procedure. e.g.
Quick assessment of the situation.
Are you in any immediate danger. No, notify CG through normal coms that you have a problem and will report back. Yes but not imminent Pan Pan call . Is the danger imminent and life threatening eg boat fire / rocks etc Mayday call
Only then:
Can you drop anchor
Can you do a quick investigation of the engine safely and then can you breakfix
Advise CG of outcome, escalate as necessary.
Why, for example if your raw water pump is located in the engine bay rather than the drive (not sure with yours) then to change an impeller at sea and not want to embarrass themselves by making a pointless call may seem OK. But that impeller usually sits a inch or so above the waterline.... there is a lot that can go wrong very quickly that will demand your attention before you have the luxury of making a less than frantic call as the boat starts flooding. Better the emergency co-ordination services are made aware as soon as possible.
Do crew and PAX know what to do in an emergency. Can crew manage comms if you are busy? etc etc.
Things that will help you.
- Redundant communication (i.e. in addition to a ship radio a handheld in case your issue involves shutting down electrics or loss of battery i.e. engine fire)
- AIS transponder (nice to have) ( in conjunction with DSC it helps them pinpoint you if you're stuck manning something else and cannot attend to the radio, manually pumping, attending casualty etc)
- Redundant GPS / chartplotter ( e.g. Navionics on a mobile phone in case you lose battery power)
- Sea anchor / drogue to keep you aligned to any swell
- Sufficient anchor chain. If you are managing on 40m of chain you might want to splice that to 60m (location dependant) of rode so you can deploy in deeper water in an emergency especially if your boating activity takes you alongside any cliffs etc with steeply shelving sea bed.
- All the usual safety equipment. Life jackets / PLB or EPIRB/ water proof handheld VHF / lanyards to secure all pax together in the water
- Signalling equipment (flares/ strobes etc)
- Leak fix - (suitable bungs for sea cocks, spare intake hose from Z drive to filter if you have a seacock in place, spare car tyre inner tube and amalgamating tape for hose splits if not
- Manual bilge pump and bailing equipment (if battery power lost)
- Engine room fire extinguishers and additional hand held's in conjunction with smoke alarms suitable for class of fire
There will be more but the idea is to forward plan not only about prevention but what you will do and how you will do it when a crisis arrives and know that plan as many people become overwhelmed and actually make the problem worse. A good example of this may be jumping straight into the problem and spending vital minutes faffing about fixated on the failure when you should be following a set procedure. e.g.
Quick assessment of the situation.
Are you in any immediate danger. No, notify CG through normal coms that you have a problem and will report back. Yes but not imminent Pan Pan call . Is the danger imminent and life threatening eg boat fire / rocks etc Mayday call
Only then:
Can you drop anchor
Can you do a quick investigation of the engine safely and then can you breakfix
Advise CG of outcome, escalate as necessary.
Why, for example if your raw water pump is located in the engine bay rather than the drive (not sure with yours) then to change an impeller at sea and not want to embarrass themselves by making a pointless call may seem OK. But that impeller usually sits a inch or so above the waterline.... there is a lot that can go wrong very quickly that will demand your attention before you have the luxury of making a less than frantic call as the boat starts flooding. Better the emergency co-ordination services are made aware as soon as possible.
Do crew and PAX know what to do in an emergency. Can crew manage comms if you are busy? etc etc.
diverd
Member
I have a well serviced and reliable main inboard, and mounted a new 4 stroke 6 hp onto a bracket on my swim platform. The bracket is a small stainless and wood unit i got off ebay, and it has been excellent, it cost just over £100, i can find a link if you want, but it is designed for swim platforms. The bracket is out to the side, and will move me along at 5 knots, so its more of a get me safe engine that has helped twice over the years. Last year i had a standard shaft 2 stroke and it was just too short, though it worked it would often cavitate in rough water, this one is a sail drive and sits far deeper.
BruceK
Well-known member
What boat?
diverd
Member
A regal 1950 lsc
