REMINDER - COVID-19
Any content, information, or advice found on social media platforms and the wider Internet, including forums such as YBW, should NOT be acted upon unless checked against a reliable, authoritative source, and re-checked, particularly where personal health and liberty is at stake. Seek professional advice/confirmation before acting on such at all times.
Users who are found to promulgate FAKE NEWS on the forum in regard to this issue, intentional or otherwise, may find their access terminated. It is your responsibility to provide references to bona fide sources.
FAKE NEWS, in this regard, is that which is posited by organisations, media, etc., that is repeated on the forum, or used to support personal opinion/hypothesis posted by users - FAKE NEWS is not necessarily the personal opinion/hypothesis being posted in itself, any issues with such should be challenged respectfully.
IN ADDITION it seems that conspiracy theories are finding their way onto the forum. This is not the place for such content. Users who post it may find their access limited or permanently suspended. Please leave it where you find it.
The fuse must be larger than the maximum current drawn by the item(s) supplied........ some items may draw a high current at at start-up which has the catered for .... best to see the equipment manual where possible ( a slow blow fuse may be specified for some items)Hi
I have the wee glass fuses on my boat
How do you know what is the correct amp fuse for each thing? For example cabin lights, deck light, stern light, masthead light, the USB sockets etc
Strictly speaking, the fuse is there to protect the boat. If you fitted 70mm cable for everything you'd still want smaller fuses than needed for the wire to be protected because equipment would still be capable of catching fire. As such, a fuse rated to the workload would be useful, and you should ensure the wire is capable of greater load than that rating.As far as I am aware, the fuse should be there to protect the wiring