How to achieve a never-fail weatherproof teak veneered cockpit table top?

[Zing]

I need to do this again. I've tried Epiphanes with 7 coats and that didn't ultimately work too well. Then I got determined and sanded it off and coated the ply and veneer with 3 coats of epoxy before multiple coats of Epiphanes, 1 coat added a year. It just didn't last long before moisture got in and damaged first the varnish, then ultimately stains or lifts the veneer. Maybe 2 -3 years last time before some deterioration. 6 years to unacceptable deterioration.

Is there a varnish or procedure that is totally waterproof and looks as good as Epiphanes? Would it be viable to make a table with veneer over fibreglass or plastic? Should I try a polyurethane varnish?

I realise I could cover it up with a weatherproof cover, but I'd rather not. Likewise I don't want to abandon varnished teak for natural teak or worse, something more industrial looking.

 

[Tranona]

Holy Grail. This coelan.net/3.html is as close as you will get but still risky. A cover is the answer - the damage occurs when you are not using the boat or table so why does it matter if it is covered up?

 

[goeasy123]

Soak it in penetrating epoxy.

See here....

 

[srm]

Recently admired a Canadian boat with very nice varnish work after an Atlantic crossing. Then saw how they keep it that way: a light rub down and new coat before winter, and again in the spring if it looks as if it just might be needed.

 

[Kukri]

I have used Epifanes. I have used Epifanes over epoxy. I have used Coelan.

This is the foredeck of my son’s IC after the winter cover came off, a few hours ago:



I have nothing useful to say, here…

 

[Zing]

Holy Grail. This coelan.net/3.html is as close as you will get but still risky. A cover is the answer - the damage occurs when you are not using the boat or table so why does it matter if it is covered up?

Thanks for the suggestion. Actually much damage occurs whilst I am there as live aboard and then is when I don’t cover it. When not there it is covered up of course, but that is not itself total protection as humidity levels are high under the waterproof cover.

 

[Zing]

Soak it in penetrating epoxy.

See here....

I’ve done that, but I used the West system instead. It didn’t do the trick. I notice TotalBoat do a table top ultra thick epoxy and a UV protection coating product. I wonder if those might be worth a go?

 

[Zing]

Recently admired a Canadian boat with very nice varnish work after an Atlantic crossing. Then saw how they keep it that way: a light rub down and new coat before winter, and again in the spring if it looks as if it just might be needed.

That’s the standard protocol to look after varnish well and is more or less what I do. I just read the manuals for Awlbrite varnishes and they suggest the more coats the better and refer to 8 to 10. I didn’t go that thick, which is possibly part of the problem.

 

[Zing]

I have used Epifanes. I have used Epifanes over epoxy. I have used Coelan.

This is the foredeck of my son’s IC after the winter cover came off, a few hours ago:

I have nothing useful to say, here…

A familiar sight unfortunately.

 

[Poignard]

Does the moisture get in where there are joints, eg between the plywood and the hardwood lippings?

 

[Zing]

This product looks like it might be good. A 3 component urethane. They advertise it as better than varnish

Choose a Region | Awlgrip | AkzoNobel

 

[Zing]

Does the moisture get in where there are joints, eg between the plywood and the hardwood lippings?

The worst bits are where veneer edges occur, but trim and joins as you mention are weak points too.

 

[Poignard]

The worst bits are where veneer edges occur, but trim and joins as you mention are weak points too.

I think the joints move, the epoxy cracks and moisture creeps in.

It's best, if you can do it without too much trouble, to take the table completely apart, coat each separate piece with epoxy and then glue it all together again with epoxy

 

[Lucy52]

And hope that moisture never gets under the epoxy.

 

[JaninaofDorset]

I need to do this again. I've tried Epiphanes with 7 coats and that didn't ultimately work too well. Then I got determined and sanded it off and coated the ply and veneer with 3 coats of epoxy before multiple coats of Epiphanes, 1 coat added a year. It just didn't last long before moisture got in and damaged first the varnish, then ultimately stains or lifts the veneer. Maybe 2 -3 years last time before some deterioration. 6 years to unacceptable deterioration.

Is there a varnish or procedure that is totally waterproof and looks as good as Epiphanes? Would it be viable to make a table with veneer over fibreglass or plastic? Should I try a polyurethane varnish?

I realise I could cover it up with a weatherproof cover, but I'd rather not. Likewise I don't want to abandon varnished teak for natural teak or worse, something more industrial looking.

i think it's better to just use wood of the right thickness and oil or varnish to suite your needs!
all this sticking one thing to another is asking for trouble down the road.
choose your desired wood and add oil...

 

[Plum]

I need to do this again. I've tried Epiphanes with 7 coats and that didn't ultimately work too well. Then I got determined and sanded it off and coated the ply and veneer with 3 coats of epoxy before multiple coats of Epiphanes, 1 coat added a year. It just didn't last long before moisture got in and damaged first the varnish, then ultimately stains or lifts the veneer. Maybe 2 -3 years last time before some deterioration. 6 years to unacceptable deterioration.

Is there a varnish or procedure that is totally waterproof and looks as good as Epiphanes? Would it be viable to make a table with veneer over fibreglass or plastic? Should I try a polyurethane varnish?

I realise I could cover it up with a weatherproof cover, but I'd rather not. Likewise I don't want to abandon varnished teak for natural teak or worse, something more industrial looking.

If it was me, I would replace with solid wood boards, ideally teak but iroko or oak is also good, quarter sawn. Leave at least a 4mm gap between the boards and generously round off all edges and do not apply any coating at all. I know you want to keep your varnished veneer appearance but in my experience, you will forever be frustrated trying to maintain a good appearance.

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